• Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series ) System 1
  • Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series ) System 2
  • Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series ) System 3
Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series )

Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series )

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Product Description:

All details for WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump:

 

1. Product Introduction of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump 

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1). Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2). Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3). How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series )

Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series )

Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps (WQ Series )




Q:We bought a second hand Rover 75, three months later head gasket blew. This was replaced but blew again due to original wet liners. A reconditioned engine was then put in but head gasket blew again due to original water pump. I am not trying to ascertain blame i would just like to know which is accurate as car seller is saying fault of mechanic as should have changed wet liners and water pump and mechanic is saying it is not common practice to change this parts when you replace a head gasket or engine. Thanks for any clarification, especially if you are a mechanic yourself.
Well the answer is..... I am going to take a guess that this is a Rover K series engine. They blow the head gasket just for something to do. Terrible problem when the engine was a 1.4 and it only got worse as they bored the engines out. The original fault will be poor maintenance and a failure to ensure it always has loads of anti freeze or corrosion inhibitor in there. That makes the liner to block interface corrode. The second is more controversial, if I knew the water pump was fairly new then I would probably not fit a new one with an exchange engine. If however the water pump was old or an unknown quantity then I would almost certainly change it, and the clutch too, if I had the engine out as it's such a fiddly job to do. BUT who was paying for the work? If it was you then this would have added a fair bit to the bill (if you didn't tell him to change it then really you can't complain that he didn't do it) and it it was warranty work then the terms of the warranty might set out what was supposed to be done. Rhys
Q:I have had this water pump changed 2 times in 5 years is this normal for this car? It has a v6 motor.
1. Remove any radiator shroud, or any cowl obstructing the fan, radiator, and water pump. 2. using a pair of large pliers, take off the clamp on the lower radiator hose at the water pump and drain the coolant into a container. Make sure the motor is COLD, room temp, when you do this. 3. Remove the other hose. 4. Remove the cooling fan using an air hammer or a large adjustable wrench. This part is tricky, unless your fan is bolted on with 10 mm bolts, then you lucked out. 5. For step 4, leave the belt on, it will make it easier to remove the fan. 6. If you have a V-8 LT-1, then you have 4 13 mm bolts. Be careful not to damage your distributor which sits under the pump (nice design GM) 7. Using a razor blade, remove any gasket on the inlet and outlet on the block. 8. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer on the gaskets for the new pump. 9. Install the pump, and its bolts. Use locktite if you have some on the bolts, medium strength. Tighten the bolts to about 90 in/lbs 10. install the pully, and fan. (again, tricky) 11. Install the belt. 12. put lower radiator hose back on (leave off upper) 13. pour 1/2 a bottle of Dex-cool coolant in the radiator 14. fill bottle up with 1/2 water, 1/2 coolant, and pour it into the reservoir. 15. If necessary, get new bottle of coolant, and pour it into the UPPER RADIATOR HOSE, this will help bleed air out of the system. 16. keep filling upper hose, and radiator until it stops bubbling down and basically overflows. 17. install upper hose. 18. make sure the radiator is full and system has no air pockets. Check to see if the upper radiator hose inlet has a bleeder valve. If it does, use a pair of pliers and open it, and watch coolant in radiator drop, then fillit up again. The V-6 has one, not sure about V-8. 19. put radiator cap on, and resevoir cap. 20. run motor, check for any leaks. 21. drive, if vehicle is overheating and there are no leaks, there is still air in the system. Wait till it cools down and bleed air again.
Q:I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week
2000 Ford Ranger Water Pump
Q:My pt crusier water pump went out. Are there any tricks to fixing it? My husband wants to take a crack at it because it is 800.00 to have it fixed by a local mechanic here in Spring Hill. If anyone knows any tricks to doing it or where I can get it done cheaper in Spring Hill?! Let me know!!!!
The water pump is driven by the timing belt on this motor. If it is not done right, you could cause serious damage to the engine. Actually $800 to change the pump and timing belt is reasonable. To lower the price further you could negotiate buying your own parts. Good luck.
Q:How do I tell the difference between a long and a short water pump? I have a Chevy 350 V8, a crate motor the same size is going in very soon. How do I tell which one I have so that I can get the correct brackets, accessories, etc.?
The short water pump body measure about 3 1/8, while the long pump measures about 4 3/4. That's measured from where the pump bolts to the block to the outside part of the casting. Not including where the shaft is. If you're looking straight down over the motor and it has a short pump, then the front of the timing chain cover and the rear of the pump are almost on the same line. If it's a long water pump, then looking down there would be about a 7/8 space where you can stick your finger. But don't do that, you could hurt yourself. :-) Hope this helps.
Q:Home water well is artesian, to holding tank. I am needing to replace my pump yearly. Inside of the pump is rusted, this causing a real loud whining sound before failure. Pump motor isn't failing, the inside of the pump ends up freezing loosing the ability to spin.Any suggestions as to why?
Hi I was (now retired) in the pumping industry pumps for the kind of use you appear to be using them for were normally stainess steel or stainless steel and plastic. I would suggest you look at the Xylem ( a major supplier and installer of pumps) site. Regards John
Q:Pump adapter joint net outside tube, what is the principle?
At once the room after the fire, the internal fire pool once water shortage, the water tank can be within the fire truck hit the water chamber through the pump adapter connected to the fire extinguishing effect.
Q:Why is water pumping cool water is normal, but when pumping hot water pressure and flow are very small?
You look at what you pump that is, there are manuals to see how much the media can not exceed the degree,
Q:I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.
It's safe as long as the levels are full and the pump doesn't fail. Here's the bad news - you have NO idea when that pump is going to go bad. Recommending to drive it that way is a dumb idea. Yes you can do it, no it's not a good idea. If your water pump decides to lock up now you popped or shredded a belt causing extra damage not too mention your vehicle overheating if you keep it running. You might get lucky, but I strongly suggest you stop driving the vehicle until it is repaired. It's asking for trouble.

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