• Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM System 1
  • Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM System 2
  • Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM System 3
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Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM

Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1328.4
Supply Capability:
100000000 m²/month

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Product Description:

 

Specifications


China polished porcelain tile 

Size : 600 x 600 cm, 800 x 800 mm 

Surface:Nano polished finish 

Water absorption:< 0.2 % 

CE&ISO


Features:

 

1) Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

2)Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations,  building exterior,

3)Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4)Material: porcelain

5)Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

6)Available dimensions

Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM

Hot sale Polished Porcelain Tile BJ1125 From CNBM

It’s good for hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall, big project etc

We have many different color and different design for you to choose. If you want to know more about us, go on

web please there are many new products showing on our web.

Our products are good quality with reasonable price.

We have CE & ISO9001, SASO for most of our tiles

 

 

Specification and technology information:

·         NANO polished

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Price terms:FOB Foshan

·         Delivery:within 15~20 days after 30% deposit received

·         Payment:T/T,L/C

·         CE mark,ISO certificate

 




Q:but, not all the same time b/c I can‘t afford it. which project should be done first? a friend told me it is better to replace the tiles first because the dust is not good for paint.paint vanities orreplace tiles orreplace the bathtub?
I think when we did our basement bathroom, we did paint, then tub, then tile. Painting your vanity will be least expensive. I would start there.
Q:The 12 by 12 tiles were laid 7 years ago and nothing is different, but last October some of them over by the exterior wall of the house started tenting. There had been no more or less rain. What would make them do this?Here‘s some more info:-They started cracking in the part of the house that was added on.-The new foundation may not have been sealed.-My brother put them down and he tends to do a crappy job at best. He thinks they were cheap tiles.-I found traces of termites when I started pulling them up (seems unrelated since they‘re ceramic tiles, but one never knows...)Any advice on replacing them would be greatly appreciated!
Ceramic tiles are rated at 3 4 5 and 5 being the best as far as breakage goes and if you have some that are rated at 3 or maybe 4 they may break through the years this is one reason. Another reason is that the floor may have settled through the years and this has caused them to crack especially if you say this part was added on. A good floor and sub floor if it was laid right and then they did use a cement board when they laid tiles I doubt moisture is the problem unless the floor became totally saturated. You can take the cracked tiles up carefully and scrape all the thin set off of the cement board or underlayment what ever you have. Make sure it is dry and level if you have any part of the floor that is not level you will have a few cracked tiles for sure. Apply new thin set and place new tiles. Re grout and you are done. You say these started cracking in the part of the house that was added on it may be that part of the floor has settled down more and you may to make sure that this is all level before you can place new tiles. Good Luck
Q:There was actually only a tub there and no shower, so the walls are all plaster. I know that before I tile I need a different backerboard, meaning the plaster goes at least to a point. Any hints, tips, directions, and suggestions on how to do the job?
You dont necessarily need to remove the plaster, but i would recommend removing it. cut the plaster out to half inch short of where you are going to tile to, so that the tile will lap onto the plaster a little. this will get rid of any patching, painting, ect. In the place of the removed plaster, install half inch cement fiberboard, costs around $10 per 3ftX5ft sheet. install with screws every 8 inches on each stud. use mesh tape in joints of fiberboard and float the joints with thinset. i would also recommend using a sealer that is specifically designed for cement fiber board under tile in the shower. dont remember the name off hand, but you can roll or brush it on and it turns bright red when it is dry. then use ceramic tile adhesive to set the tile on the walls. be sure to seal the grout joints in the tile after the grout has set for 3 or 4 days. 2 coats of sealer recommended. you can tell the sealer is working if you put a drop of water on the grout joint after the sealer has had at least 24 hours to dry, if the drop of water stays in a small bead shape then the sealer is doing its job, if the water drop soaks into the grout and darkens it, then the grout needs another coat of sealer. dont know if you are tileing the floor of the shower or using a shower pan , but that is a whole nother issue. any questions email me
Q:My husband and I are thinking about putting tile on our front porch. It‘s 10 x 13 roughly size room. Would 6x6 size tiles look better or would 12x12? What do you think?
Only wrong thing you're doing is to assume that the tile makers wouldn't change the size in all these years. A 2 x 4 isn't 2 x 4 any more either. You won't be able to hide it. If you don't mind looking at it then continue on. If you can't stand how it looks then you should replace the whole floor.
Q:Is the usual household and engineering brick Such as ordinary tiles and large tiles are much Synthetic tons of how many blocks around
30 * 45 within the wall of the general 22--26 kg a box of 10 --- 12 tablets ranging. There are 30 * 60 inner wall of the general 8 per box or so, also 22 --- 26 kg range Brand is not the same, packaging, weight is not the same, can only tell you about.
Q:i have just put down adhesive floor tiles in my bathroom, do i now need to use an extra sealant/pvc wash to seal the joins between the tiles as my kids enjoy splashing in the bath and i dont want the floor ( pvc sealed boards ) to lift if water gets in the gaps?
Sure, if you have gaps i recommend sealing the joints. If the joints are just seams you should be fine, and won't need to seal.
Q:Hi, I am thinking about placing vinyl wood planks over the existing ceramic tile in my house and I wanted to know if it‘s possible. The tile isn‘t completely level due to the grout and obviously not all the tiles are exactly the same height down to the millimeter. I wanted to know 1. Is it possible to install vinyl wood plank over ceramic tile, 2. If so how level the tile floor has to be, 3. How would I go about leveling the floor, with an underlayment or with some sort of mortar, 4. If I use an underlayment do I still need to use the mortar to level the tile?Thank you.
I would not lay vinyl over ceramic tile, especially if the tile isn't even. It will wear the tile out faster, and the tile won't look good over any surface that is not level. Remove the tile, then lay down some 1/2 underlayment plywood--or once the tile is removed, (and all the grout) and the floor is revealed, you may be able to lay the vinyl down over what's underneath. You can't put underlayment over the tile either because it has to be nailed down, and that extra layer will add nearly an inch to your floor--making any transition to other rooms uneven.
Q:How to remove the shoe oil into the tiles
Use mineral oil, alcohol or acetone wipe. With a clean cream, Yi Jie clean cream, to ensure that can be removed,
Q:is there any benifits to having the tiled ceilings? please answer ASAP
Pencils are easier to stick in that type of ceiling.
Q:I need step by step instructions on how to install ceramic tile in a bathroom on a concrete slab.
first of all measure ur bathroom and calculate how many square meters u need. Then decide on your tile layout (where u want the tiles to start and end.) normally you want to have full tiles in visible areas and have the cut tiles in less visible areas (behind doors, under basin cabinet, behind toilet) You should check ur levels to make sure the water runs to the floor drain, and if there is no floor drain make sure it runs to one area that is accesible to dry. Make sure it doesnt run towards the door and that you dont get multiple puddles. If the levels are not already done you will need to apply a screed of concrete (no coarse aggregate) and trowl it to the desired levels. Once that is set you decide on what type of binding agent (glue or mortar) that best suites your needs. pick a starting point (a corner in which u would use a whole tile) and as you go keep checking ur levels to maintain the correct slope for the water. You will probably need a tile cutting tool for area where you cant use a whole tile. That is just a basic idea of what ull need to do.

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