• Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023 System 3
Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023

Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023 is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023

Glazed Porcelain Tile Metal Series 6JS023

 

FAQ

 

1.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. 

 

2.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. 


3. Why choose our Floor Tile?

—— Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.


Q:for making cement decorative hand made cement tile there is device sometime call cookie cutter also to portrait some design is called divider
The metal frame that divides the tile into different sections is made from strips of metal carefully bent and soldered into place. I have seen steel ones and also brass mold patterns. The key to it is to have the bottom of the strips perfectly flat and level so that when you pour in the liquid cement mix, each color stays in its own compartment. See the link below to see a mold pattern and also the finished tile from it. A lot of history and more photos are on the second link.
Q:i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc. thanks.
You'd probably need a tile cutter, wet-saw would be best if the job is medium or larger. Otherwise a manual tile cutter would work, just more labor intensive. Wet-saws can be bought at discount stores for as little as 20 bucks. Some tile nippers will help remove small bits of tile or small cuts, etc. Your prep work will call for maybe snap line to mark straight lines for tile placement. Using a stright-edge will also help keep your tile straight, and using the plastic grout inserts will ensure you keep a uniform thickness between your tiles (size of inserts depends on how wide your grout lines will be). You'll need a float or trowel to spread the mortar or mastic. Once it's spread, you set your tile one it while mortar is wet. You'll need a water bucket with large sponge to wipe down the tiles after they've been set. This not only cleans the tiles, but levels the grout to a final depth as well. Wipe it while wet and it's fairly easy - let it dry and it's almost impossible to smooth your grout. I suggest you search the web or get a book on tiling basics. The job is really straight-forward and fairly simple. Just familiarize yourself with the basic concepts and tips for doing the job. Tiling is far easier than most folks believe it to be. It's just a matter of rolling up one's sleeves and begining the job. Finally, you'll need six-pack of beer when the job is finished. Good luck
Q:Renovation of the new house is good with tiles or wooden floor ah? Which of the two are you expensive?
Both have advantages and disadvantages. Tiles are easy to clean and wood flooring is warmer. But the real log floor is almost gone. Now most of the solid wood flooring, paved after the floor will be inflated, muster the problem, need to cut again. And should be careful when cleaning. From the experience of my personal decoration, if you do not want to waste a lot of time on the clean, or with tiles better. If you like to organize housework, with solid wood flooring (wood floor almost can not buy), the best living room and bedroom paved together, the use of wood color feeling very warm. But in the living room and kitchen, bathroom at the junction must be waterproof to prevent water infiltration. Price, both of which are expensive and cheap, to see your budget.
Q:I was wondering about space between tile when laying tile floor. I have seen online and in person tile floors(don‘t know marble or porcelain or what) where it is completely flat and smooth and the tiles appear butted together. I prefer this look as opposed to the typical tile floor with grout lines that are shallower than the tops of the tile. I was wondering how to get this flat look when every where I have read online says you cannot or at least should not butt tiles together. I hope I described what im looking for accurately and am hoping to get some options. Again I am looking for a flat smooth surface nothing with the dips or recesses of the grout lines. how is that done??
What you want all depends on the type of tile you choose. Granites and marbles you can do this with.There are some vitrified tiles that this can be done with. These are cut (the 2 stones) this way to butt them almost all the way together.Vitrified tiles are formed with the edges slanted so you butt them together.. These are all made to use a very small grout joint but you still need to have grout. Most all other ceramic and porcelain tiles you need a slightly bigger joint and only as small as 3/16 .The type of grout these require you can only do a joint that small. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:Just started tiling my tub surround and I have two very similar layouts graphed up. The actual colors of the tile and listello will be different than the ones shown in the pictures, so don‘t look at the computerized colors since they aren‘t accurate. The layout however, is pretty darn close to what I am planning on doing.
In any tile job, if it doesn't end at a wall you should use a cap tile like in the first picture or a bullnose, whichever fits your particular tile layout. The both have one rounded edge that dies down to the adjoining wall and finishes the job off. If you just leave the tile itself the only option to finish off the tile edge is to lay grout up to it, caulk it, or run some kind of molding up the edge. It costs more to run the cap tile, but in the long run the expense of tiling the wall supports the added expense of cap.
Q:Looking for ceramic wall tile decorated in 24 karat gold designs
most rich folks just tell their interior designer to locate them
Q:What is Spanish Tile, why is it called Spanish Tile, and is this considered a good flooring option?And how does it feel in summer and winter (concrete slab floor below)?
Mexican tile, also known as Spanish tile, is a broad term used to describe a number of tile materials on the market, ranging from saltillo to hand made ceramic tiles sporting traditional Spanish and Mexican designs. Regardless of the type of tile you choose, you can count on Mexican tile to add a warm, pastoral, south of the border flair to any space in which you have it installed. Saltillo Tiles Saltillo tile is by far the most common of the Mexican and Spanish tiles found on the market. It is made from raw clay traditionally pressed by hand, and has an earthy, rough, almost terra cotta look to it. Depending on the firing, saltillo tiles range from deep yellow to deep orange in color, and come in a large variety of tile shapes, everything from your basic square to hexagonal and more elaborate patterns. Because of the nature of the clay and the more traditional form of production, these tiles are more porous than other ceramic tiles. As such, they should always be sealed with a quality sealant to protect them from stains and spills, which they would readily soak up if not protected. They will also need to be periodically re-sealed. Don't think of this as a downside, however. Like with hardwood, refinishing your saltillo will revive your floor, keeping it looking like new far past the time when other ceramics will have lost that newly installed look. On a final note, saltillo tiles get their name from the town in Mexico where they were originally, and still are, manufactured. If you get the real deal, and not an imitation variety, you can expect to find an odd chicken foot print or other animal print in your tiles when they are installed. Place these tiles in a prominent place in your tiling project for a great conversation starter and enjoy the rustic feel such imperfections will add to your finished product. Most tile floors, including Spanish tile, will feel cool to bare feet in both winter and summer.
Q:We are in the process of buying a Fannie Mae home which is in very good condition. We did however find a hairline crack on about 6 of the 12 x 12 tiles in the master bathroom floor. The Home Inspector said there are no signs of foundation problems on the outside of the home. He said because we live in Texas the ground settles and expands and this could have caused the crack. Because there are no signs of foundation troubles on the outside of the home as long as we water the foundation we shouldn‘t have any problems. There is also a door that closes on it‘s own which indicates there could be a crack? However it‘s just one door out of about 12. Should we be worried or does the inspector know what he‘s talking about.
The inspector knows some what what he s talking about. Movement like this can cause tile to crack but in most cases the cracks will run in a fairly straight line. Are the tiles that way? Or are they here and there?If the are more in a random pattern, tiles my be loose , the workmanship was poor and thin set wasn t applied right or thin set was to wet , dry or possibly had skinned over before tile was set. There are easy ways to tell if the tiles are loose to see if thats the problem. The door shouldn t be a problem to fix so I would be more concerned with the tiles. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there.
Q:We have a hardwood floor in our bathroom, and because it gets too damp, we want to install vinyl tiles on top of the hardwood floor. But I cannot imagine vinyl sticking to wood - can it be done successfully? Any glue tips??
If you do that you will STILL have a hardwood floor that will get damp, only it will be underneath vinyl tiles, and you might find problems in the future with buckling, swelling etc because the vinyl and wood will not shrink or expand at the same rate. Best just to take an extra day, remove the hardwood and start fresh
Q:If so, I need to rewrite the tiles. To the kind of wax after you can see the kind of wax, do not know what should be bought? Thanks for reminding!
Try to paint wax ps: landlord do want to wax on the tiles ah, tile tiles are generally ordinary tiles in the factory before the tiles look good to play ah, but after playing is not very good cleaning.

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