• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6003 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6003 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6003 System 3
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6003 System 4
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6003

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6003

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Glazed Porcelain Tile, floor tiles

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

Size

60x60 mm

Selection Range

Several Colors available

 

Features:

 

1) Unique natural sandstone image designs and exclusive quality;

2) Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

3) Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4) Material: porcelain

5) Basic size: 600x600x9.8mm, 100x600mm, 150x600mm, 300x300mm, 300x600mm available based on clients’ requirements;

6) Available dimensions

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600x9.8 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall

 

The glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, exclusive brand showroom, clubs villas as well as other public sites.

We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as 2nd production and final package.

 

 

Specification and technical parameter:

 

·         Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Anti-Resistance: R10

·         Delivery Time: within 15~20 days after order confirmation.

·         Package standard: 4pcs/carton, 40 Cartons/pallet, 32 Kgs/Carton.

 

Q:More specifically, do you lay the tile right against the floorboard with no groat visible? Or would you put a spacer in between the floorboard and the tile so that it you have grout along the edge?
The best way is to remove the baseboard trim and tile under it leaving a 1/4 to 3/8 gap to the wall. Then cover that with the trim. If you absolutely do not want to remove the trim then you need to put a spacer along the wall so that all the tile is layed uniform. A batten as the previous poster stated is a good idea. You then want to remove the batten when the tile is set. Do not grout up to the wall however, it leaves no room for expansion and you will end up with cracked grout or worse, ballooning in the middle. You want to buy a caulk that is the same color as the grout (they sell them at most home improvement stores). Use this to caulk the seam at the edge between the tile and the trim.
Q:I am remodeling my bathroom and will be putting tile up around the tub area. There are three areas (each end of tub and middle part).Here are the dimensions in inches:each end is 30 wide and 81 tall (so 2 of these areas)middle is 58 wide and 81 tallSo how many square feet of tile will I need or is in inches? Thanks in advance!!
Some tiles are designed to be used in a particular pattern, not just a straight run. For example, 4 tiles might interlock to make a square on the wall. I suggest you write down the measurements as you have, draw a small diagram of it all, and THEN go to a tile place. There is a tremendous amount of variation, not to mention the use of partial tiles at the edges, etc. It's rather complicated. On the plus side, you usually have to buy tiles by the box, so that means you would be rounding up your numbers, anyway. Better to have too many than to run out!
Q:I want to install a towel hook in my bathroom, but it is all ceramic tile, including the walls. Adhesive doesn‘t work. Is there any way to put screws in the tile with out cracking the tiles? Thanks.
You have to drill holes, using a masonry bit, thru the tile, and use an anchor of some sort. Best would be some sort of toggle bolt thru the drywall itself. A plastic expansion anchor would suffice. Any force on the tile itself, may cause eventual breakage.
Q:My husband and I are going to redo a very small, four by four, half bath over Thanksgiving weekend. I‘ve picked up bits and pieces of advice about installing the marble floor tiles I‘ve bought, but I want to make sure I have the right advice before starting this or buying anything:Tile must be sealed both before and after installing, and the best sealer is Sealers Choice Gold. This will seal both the tile and the grout. Preinstall sealing should be done after cutting, not before. Do the tile edges need to be sealed as well or only the tops?Only white modified thinset should be used (brand recommendations?)Non-sanded grout should be used, and 1/8 inch spacing is acceptable for 12x12 tiles.Tiles should be wrapped before cutting to avoid breakage? I‘ve never seen this recommended before, but I‘ve also never installed marble.Thanks so much!
Marble tile floors have been around for centuries. Even today, in an age of much simpler and less expensive options, marble remains synonymous with elegance and class. Installing marble is more complicated than installing ceramic or other types of tiles because the marble can't be cut on a standard tile cutter, instead needing a wet saw. Also, since the tiles are straight-cut in their manufacture, the tile surfaces have to be completely even with one another.
Q:tiles at the top of my pool have fallen off, these tiles are in the water. what is best or suggested adhesive to reinstall them?
depot has a combination mortar/grout that sets underwater. should work. if a bunch of the tiles have come off.. bably indicates larger problems
Q:The tile is one week old. I have had the company pull tiles, regrout and patch. I have new cracks every day. Can I reasonable ask them to start over?
Could be that the base is improperlyy installed to. The cement board may not be screwed down right. Or... what is under that may not be a good base. If you have a floor that is settling or unlevel ..... that subfloor may not be good for ceramic tile.
Q:we have an outside toilet which has been removed and we are wanting to change the room in to a washing room. it is a brick out building and the brick has been painted, how easy is it to tile over this and how could it be done?
' sure it can be done but the plaster over paint of course could fall off after the paint begins to peel. Its best to scrape off as much of the paint as possible first before you plaster. You might use a paint remover to help make things easier. Plaster will stick best to wet bricks not dry bricks. then butter the tiles on the back and stick them on, however, its not going to be easy, I am afraid, unless the bricks are absolutely straight. good luck on this. You have your work cut out for you.
Q:the white tiles for like walls.
The style of the tile (hey, that rhymes) is very similar to the style used in many of the stations in the NYC subway system (and probably other systems) over the years.
Q:The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!
if it was me i would remove them, you need to have a flat surface, and it in best to dura rock screwed down before the tile if it's on wood. the easiest way to remove them i have found is to get an air compressor with a air chisel tool for it. or you can always use the old hammer and chisel/flatbar method. but it is really important that you have a smooth surface with no dirt or you will get little air pockets under the tile making it really easy to crack the tile's and it will look like crap because pieces will come out. and when your done with the job, the next day you can lightly tap on the tile with the handle of a screw driver and if it sounds hollow it means you got air pockets underneath. if you have air pockets it is possible to take just the affected tiles out and remortar it/them. also make sure you use mortar not glue, some people think they can use glue but trust me in the long run it doesnt work that well. good luck i hope this helped
Q:If yes, we want to know what s the best sealer for our porcelain tiles we just installed on our floors. Will the sealer make the tiles slippery?We will appreciate your quick answer from y‘all!
Porcelain tile, glazed or unglazed do not require a sealer. Suggested for the grout yes but not the tile itself. The tile and its most likely a glazed product will not absorb any thing that will cause it to stain any way. Thus it will not absorb a sealer either. Sealer, since it won t be absorbed , will not make the tile any more or less slippery than the COF rating of the tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

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