• Flexible 450/750V Building Wire Use for Residential Lighting System 1
  • Flexible 450/750V Building Wire Use for Residential Lighting System 2
Flexible 450/750V Building Wire Use for Residential Lighting

Flexible 450/750V Building Wire Use for Residential Lighting

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)


  • Insulation Material:
    PVCModel Number:
    BVR

  • Type: Low Voltage

  • Application: lighting in residential

  • Conductor Material: Copper

  • Jacket: PVC

  • Type of Conductor: Oxygen Free Copper

  • Insulation: PVC insulation

  • Application: Residential Lighting

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Rool or as your request
Delivery Detail:7-30 days or as customers' demand

Specifications

450/750V Flexible Building Wire Use for Residential Lighting
1.13 years professional experience
2.Flexible Copper Conductor

450/750V Flexible Building Wire Use for Residential Lighting

Specification



1).Rated Voltage: 450/750V


2).Rated temperature: 70 'C


3).Standard: GB, IEC. etc.


4).Testing Voltage: 10KV


5).Min. insulation resistance at 70°C(Mohm.km): 0.0048


6).ISO9001:2008, CCC certification


7).20 years manufacturing experience


8).Specialized in electric/electrical; construction; industrial appliance


9).Customer wire cable


10).Stock available, Free sample


11).Small profits, quick returns


12).High quality and competitive price


13).Convenient transportation (One hour drive to Shanghai) )and timely delivery


14).Application: Electrical Instruments, Lighting, Equipment, Household appliances, Railway, Computer, Industrial, Industrial Car, Telecommunication, Military, Mining, Power Station; Construction and Of AC, DC electrical installations



More technical data:


The information attached below is just for your reference. We can produce electric copper wire completely according to your requirement, please contact us with your specifications that you need


Name: BV(IEC01)


Nom. Section

(mm²)

Core/Dia

(mm)

Insulation thickness(mm)

Over diameter(mm)

Nominal

Thinnest point

Min.

Control

Max.

1.5

1/1.38

0.7

0.53

2.8(2.6)

2.9

3.2

1.5

7/0.52

0.7

0.53

2.9(2.7)

3.1

3.3

2.5

1/1.78

0.8

0.62

3.4(3.2)

3.5

3.9

4

1/2.25

0.8

0.62

3.9(3.6)

4

4.4

6

1/2.76

0.8

0.62

4.4(4.1)

4.5

5

10

7/1.35

1

0.8

6.0(5.6)

6.5

6.7

16

7/1.70

1

0.8

7.1(6.4)

7.5

7.8

25

7/2.14

1.2

0.98

8.8(8.1)

9.2

9.7

35

7/2.52

1.2

0.98

10(9)

10.5

10.9

50

19/1.78

1.4

1.16

11.7(10.6)

12.3

12.8

70

19/2.14

1.4

1.16

13.5(12.1)

14.1

14.6

95

19/2.52

1.6

1.34

15.8(14.1)

16.2

17.1



Q:i.e can i use a speaker wire when the electric wire in the light is broken???is it compatible?
No, it could cause a fire. Your light is 110-120 volts. Speaker wire is rated for millivolts. When selecting wire for a job, impedance, capacitance, resistance needs to be considered. Using electrical wire for speaker wire could burn up your audio systems amplifier, or may not let the proper frequencies through. If you have a low end system this may not matter.
Q:I saw a show about how it can affect the way you feel temperature, and light touches. There were a few cases in which the electrical wiring needed to be fixed, and that ultimately resolved the situation of the supposed paranormal. Anybody experienced this?
I would try to discover the History of your house. Maybe you can figure out why you're experiencing all this if you knew who lived there. If your bed is shaking, try moving it to a different corner of the room or choose a different area to sleep. Has your girlfriend and step-daughter experienced any of the paranormal activity? Just curious Good luck.
Q:I have two side-by-side outlets. One does not work at all. I've checked all the connections and cannot get it to work.I noticed that the adjacent box has a black and white wire connected while the error box only had a red and white wire going to the box. Is this right? When I test the wires going into the box, there is no voltage whatsoever.
The non worker may go to a light switch somewherewhen the light is on the power to the outlet is on. Then again it could be a jumper wire(could be purple as color does not matter) The connection does. So take the box out and see how the wiring is wired. But as you are not electrically minded and electricity is not the forgiving kind so find a buddy who is.
Q:I just need to confirm if is is safe. This is for DIY electrical wiring in Australia. This is for a 3 light traffic light I purchased off OKorder that need wiring. There are four plugs. Each plug lots up one light individually (which each are active) and the other one is neutral+earth plug only.Plug 1: Neautral and Earth contained on this plug and active missing from it.Plug 2: Active (red light) and neutral/earth missing on it.Plug 3: active (yellow light) and neutral/earth missing on it.Plug 4 active (green light) and neutral/earth missing on it.Does this make sense? If not, I can try again to make it understandable.
active and neutral lines are needed to lit a bulb. Earth is just to make the lights safe. Having only one line (active or neutral) will not work or cause damage. However, I would first check wire connections to the bulbs themselves. You need to see that each are getting one earth, one neutral and one live. You should do this PRIOR to connecting the plugs to the main. It is simple wiring, but if you haven't done this before, I strongly, suggest you ask an electrician or drop the seller an email to ask about the connections.
Q:What does the wire ZC-BV mean? What is the specification? Which standard is executed?
Home improvement are generally used BV copper wire, rarely used multi-stranded.
Q:How to determine whether the square of the cable is standard
Such as after the first call to the fluorine, and then demolition air conditioning
Q:I was changing a light fixture in my bedroom today. I took down an old ceiling rose which had the live wire, two neutrals, three loop wires, and 4 earths. I used the brass connectors and kept the wiring the same so all in all i simply connected up the live, neutral, and earth wire the the connectors from the old fixture. I tested the light before i stuck attatched it to its bracket and it worked fine, however when i attatched it to the bracket the brass connectors touched the metal of the new fixture and and blew the upstairs lighting. At first i thought it may be a fuse, so i bought two brand new but to no avail. Any ideas as what could be preventing any of the upstairs lighting from working?
umm it could be the neutral is loose , you need to check it with a volt meter to see if its on then check each wire splice and i don't know what you mean brass connectors they should be plastic wire nuts
Q:How does electrical field spread through the wire when there is potential difference on its edges?
the free electron theory- when current is induced, it causes electrons to jump from one atom to the next because each atom holds a finite number of electrons
Q:i broke my phone they only way i can fix it is if i know how to reconnect those really paper thin, tape like wires.
Lady Rose's answer is absolutely useless in this case. like everyone says if it is the really thin wires they should just slide back in place. if its ur phone cable going from the phone to the wall, u can just buy a new one
Q:30kw how much cable and switch to use
50A circuit breaker simply can not bring 30KW load, 30KW load the normal working current is 50-60A. You have to use 3 * 25 copper cable or 3 * 35 aluminum cable, if the distance is large with a large Model, the open selection of 100A.

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