• COPPER COATED WELDING WIRE SG2 with competitive price System 1
COPPER COATED WELDING WIRE SG2 with competitive price

COPPER COATED WELDING WIRE SG2 with competitive price

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m.t.
Supply Capability:
30000 m.t./month

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  • Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)
  • Model Number: SG2
  • Certification: CCS, TUV, ABS, LR, DB,NK,CWB

  • QMS: ISO9001,ISO14000

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Packing: spool weight: 1kg ,5kg,15kg,18kg,20kg per spool drum weight: 100kg or 250kg per drum precision layer wire on the black plastic spool or metal spool, covered with the wax paper, each spool in ploy bag with two little silicon in the carton, then put on wooden pallets
Delivery Detail:within 15 days after confirmed the purchase order

Specifications

Specifications:
1)products:SG2
2) Sizes: 0.8 - 1.6mm
3) Applications: widely used as welding carbon steel wires

Q:I have 12/3 wire running from the breaker box on a 20 amp breaker that powers a bathroom (2 lights and 2 receptacles). I want to splice into this and run 14/2 wire into the living room to run 6 recessed lights. Is this OK to do?
No, you can't extend a 20A circuit with 14 G wire. And you can't legally downgrade the existing 12 G wire circuit to a 15 A breaker. And you can't put two wires into a single breaker inside the panel. Fastest solution? Almost all brands of panel offer a two breakers in one slot or high density option. So you can get a new thing that fits in the space of one 15A breaker but has two breakers in it and two connection screws on it. Replace an existing 15A breaker with a high density 15/15 and hook up two 15A circuits. These are also available in unequal configurations - so you could get one that had a 15A and a 20A breaker in the space of a single 'normal' 15 or 20 A breaker. In some brands these high density breakers only fit in certain (closer to the mains connection) spaces - typically the top 15 or 20 breaker spaces. Slower solution. That 15 A breaker that you wanted to put two wires on? Follow the wire from it into the attic, cut it, put in a junction box and splice your new 14 G wire in there. Then again, what else is on that circuit and will 15 A supply it all?
Q:A wire is 1.5 m long and has a diameter of 1.5 mm. The stretch modulus of the wire is 6.2 x 10^10 N/m^2. If a force of 400 N is applied to end of the wire then the increase in length of the wire is???please help, thanks
The stretching of wire by longitudinal force: If F force applied across the crosectional area A of wire of radius r and lenght L then the wire elaogates in the dirextion of force Stress P = F / A A = pi* r^2 = (1.5/2)*10^-3 = 7.5 *10^-4 m^2 strain produced = dL / L = increase in length / original L Young's modulus or elastic (stretch) modulus for the maretial, within elastic limits, Y = stress/strain strain = stress / Y dL = F * L / A * Y = F * L / pi (r^2) * Y dL = 400* 1.5 / 3.14 (7.5 *10^-4)^2 * 6.2*10^10) meter dL = 0.005479 * meter dL = 5.479 millimeters increase in length
Q:i hate the wired controllers. they all get tangled
Yes, sony makes all the Dual shock controllers wired. Katana game accessories offers the best wireless controller available for the ps2. Wireless (2.4 GHz), has the Sony playstation symbol on it, vibrations, same look, reasonably priced for the most durable wireless controller available. Best buy offers this controller for $25.99, only 2 dollars more than Sony brand. I own 2 of them, and no problems to report. Takes 3 AAA batteries.
Q:-note-NOT . resistance wire.resistance OF A wire :)lol sorry, just had so many people give me resistance wire.thats not what i want :Li want ..what is the resistance of a wire?its for my science :) pleasee help
It okorder /... Good luck in your studies, ~ Mitch ~
Q:I'm trying to install a ceiling fan but I'm having trouble with the wiring. Coming out of the fan I've got a black, white, black and white striped, and a green wire. coming out of the cieling i've got a black, a white and a red wire.The fan's green wire is connected to the bracket as a ground, so that's out of the way. It's the other wires that confuse me. I've tried, white to white, black to black, and BW striped to red, but that didn't do anything.Any ideas? Thanks.
The black and white striped is so you can turn the light and fan on separately. So at the fan hook white to white/black to black and striped to red. Then at switch box hook all white wires together with a wire nut,then a black power wire to both switches ,1 for fan 1 for light. Then the red wire coming from fan goes to a switch and the black wire coming from fan goes to a switch. If you want to run fan and light at the same time and just use pull string on fan then just hook black wire and striped wire together at the fan.
Q:Ok, i want to make a flash gun. I made one before with my cousin, but it broke. I remember what i used to make it, and how to make it, i just need the names of the wires and parts i need. How I made it: I had a battery connected to a wire that connected to a tube that had a special wire in there that heated up when i pressed a button. I would put flash paper in there, and a flame would shoot out. I need to know the name of that wire, I also need to know where to put the button on the wire connected to the battery. A link to a picture, or a detailed explanation would be really cool!Thanks!Nick
That okorder The circuit is simple. The parts are the battery, some regular wire, a push-button switch, and the nichrome wire. Connect one end of the short piece of nechrome wire to one end of a wire. Connect that end to one of the battery terminals. Connect a second piece of wire between the other battery terminal and one side of the switch. Connect a third piece of wire from the switch to the other end of the nechrome wire. When the button is pushed, the wire should heat up.
Q:I was doing some homemade circuit wiring and had a plug wired to a push button switch, wired to the load,(lamp light) then wired back to the plug. My question is the first time around I used 14g wire and it worked fine, light came on at the push button. Second time I used the same plug, 16gauge wire wired to the switch, to the load(this time a miniature bulb that sat in a smaller version of those pull lights in closets) and then back to the plug. When it was switched on nothing happened. So I went back to the 16gauge and wired it up and the bulb popped. Is this because the wire used is to small and not rated to carry the amps provided by the wall receptacle?
No. If the wire had been too thin, the light would still have lit and the wire would have become warm if you were passing too high a current through it. The wire will only carry the current demanded by the load. An internal lamp draws very little current. If the lamp didn't light, it was for other reasons, not the thickness of the wire.
Q:is there a way to wire an exit sign to a plug for an outlet receptacle?
First off, Aurthur A's answer is composed of several NEC violations; he may be going to electrical hell, if he doesn't shape up. Second, you did not say if this is a required exit sign. If it is, then you will need a licensed electrical contractor to install it; as most jurisdictions will not allow work in anything but the owner's principle dwelling to be done by unlicensed personel.
Q:I heard that Japanese could load a low voltage without any wires in one direction for 1 meter! Of course 1 meter is nothing. But can we get rid of wires in next 50 or 100 years?
Yes maybe, And maybe more than maybe. because I heard about it too. I heard that they could extend it to 100 meters. So I hope it would happen(That I'm sure)!
Q:I'm just wondering would i be able to connect a split 8 gauge wire with wire nuts like i'll explain:Use two wire nuts instead of one and divide the copper wire on both ends and wire nut both sides together with 2 nuts. The whole apparatus would look kinda like this:----lt;gt;---- with the wire nuts connecting the two arrow thingsThanks anyone
8 gauge wire is fairly heavy so I'll assume that this is not a low power application such as speaker drivers. I assume you want to do this because you don't have a proper connecting method of adequate size and you do have a couple of smaller size wire nuts. The proposed configuration would not be acceptable by any electric code for utility wiring for this reason. If one of those wire nut connections should fail, say due to corrosion or mechanical damage, the remaining connection would be required to carry the entire current load that both would normally share. This would no longer be adequately protected by a circuit breaker sized for the full 8 gauge wire. A high resistance point is developed with a high fire risk. Also the wire nuts would not be able to shield the conductors beyond the end of the wire insulation sheath. The exposed wire portions would need additional protection from incidental contact by some future service person. Please don't do this. Not a good practice.

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