• Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast System 1
  • Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast System 2
  • Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast System 3
Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast

Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Product  Discription:

OKorder is offering high quality Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads at great prices with worldwide shipping. Our brake pads are available in a wide range of styles and materials, and are guaranteed with a full warranty. Our supplier is a world-class manufacturer of brake pads, and our products are utilized the world over, with OKorder annually supplying a full range of products to European, North American and Asian markets.

 

Product Applications:

Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads are use in many transport, construction, and agricultural applications. Our brake pads are suitable for trucks, transport vehicles, construction equipment and other heavy-duty vehicles.

 

Product Advantages:

OKorder's Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads are available in a range of styles and applications. Our supplier has over 15 years of production experience and offers 1,800 different brake pad models. Our R&D department is able to develop 10 new items per month; we are currently supplying heavy-duty applications for trucks, buses and engineering vehicles.

 

Main Product Features:

·         Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon Fiber 

·         OEM services available

·         30,000km - 60,000km Guarantee

·         Full Warranty

·         Shimmed, chamfered and slotted OE Designs

·         Positive mold

·         Ultra-quiet, low dusting

·         Rubberized multi-layer shims

·         Responsive braking and longer pad life

·         Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

·         QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

 

Product Specifications:

Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

 

Position: Front Axle

PAGID: C1004

VALEO: 541679

WVA: 29108/29109/29163

FMSI: D1203-8323

FERODO: FDB1313

Rate: EE&FF

Test: Link & Greening

 

FAQ:

Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from OKorder.com?

A1: All products offered by OKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. Through its ISO certifications, OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.

Q2: How do we guarantee the quality of our products?

A2: We have established an advanced quality management system which conducts strict quality tests at every step, from raw materials to the final product. At the same time, we provide extensive follow-up service assurances as required.

Q3: Are all brake rotors the same?

A3: Premium rotors deliver less noise, longer life and more consistent safe braking. In independent testing by a major name in brakes using identical disc brake pads and both a premium rotor and an economy rotor design, the data consistently proved that the economy rotor takes the brake system below manufacturer specifications during critical testing. The research showed that using their premium rotors reduced noise by 50%, extended pad life by 25% and allowed the vehicle to stop sooner! The economy-tested vehicles had 20% less stopping ability than the premium-tested vehicles. A 20% decrease in stopping power can convert to over 6m in real life.

 

Images:

Q:Yeh , so how hard would it be ? and does any one know a rough cost ?thanks all
dude get the muffler its a steal and then go to your muffler shop and tell the guy hay check it out this is what i need to put in and he should have no problem with the diamater and the coupling he might chage you about 60 to 145 buck for his services. i used to know a couple of shops out here that still do this
Q:i am pushing dead air - it goes down to where it touches the muffler and has no holding power. i bought the motorcycle used a couple of weeks ago, it had just passed inspection. i drove it maybe 10 hours. i realized i was using the back brake too much to slow down - sometimes stopping without the front brake at all. do you think i screwed it up? i remembered briefly my teacher saying u have to use both brakes, or you‘ll either lock the front brake or destroy your back brake. of course, forgot all about this until i did it!! do u think that is what happened? will i need a new brake pad? can i make some adjustments to make it brake harder?
verify the glaring first. alter brake IAW vendors handbook in case you do not have a provider handbook. Then verify mechanical linkage from foot pedal to the rear tire. verify springs, brake rods.If this inspect, the rear stay for the brake assembly could be checked to ensure the nut that secures it has no longer fell off. They regularly have a cotter pin that forestalls the nut from falling off. If none of this remedies the worry, you will could eliminate the rear tire and look on the hub and is derived and brake shoes. At this element you have a pair of judgements. purchase a provider handbook to your motorcycle (suzuki manuals are, in my opinion, the excellent) or take it to a Suzuki broker. in case you have wrenched on motorcycles, once you restore the brakes on your gadget, the money you saved in basic terms paid for the fee of the provider handbook. Take some time, pass step with the aid of step, sparkling as you pass, provider your very final stress(alter the chain) and torque the axle nut and nut that secures the brake stay. constantly use new cotter pins once you positioned it back mutually. in case you do no longer prefer to place out money for procedures or manuals or don't have the persistence, you're superb off taking your motorcycle to the broker. Your protection is the main severe element and how your brakes function could avert you from stepping into an accident!
Q:Market "motorcycle modified parts modified under the brake pump hydraulic brake disc brakes ABS anti-lock device" can work? How is the effect?
Relatively no effect, but after this part of the cache, the brake becomes soft, but lost a better braking force, the real ABS brake system is very complex, usually with the use of EBD, a single Parts can not achieve the true sense of the ABS anti-lock effect, no wheel speed sensor, no EBD electronic stability system, no brake force distribution hydraulic pump, simply impossible to achieve.
Q:I have a motorcycle made by Bajaj.It‘s 3 months old and run 2500 kilometers.I handle it gently and have never dropped or crashed it.Two days back, the bike developed handling problems at the front end.The handle bars feels heavy and refuses to turn.It‘s as if the handle is welded to the chassis.The problem is at it‘s worst between speeds of 10-20 km/hr.The bike is also pulling to either sides when grabbing the front brake.Negotiating roundabouts has become risky.The bike just wants to go straight rather than turning and i have to muscle it back to my correct path.It was not like this just a week ago.What could be the problem?.The air pressure on both tyres are perfect.The front disks are not dragging either.Is it something related to forks or bearings?.Do the bearings get tight automatically?.
Hey John, if you can find a Towncar, you'll probably like it more. I was never a fan of the Continental, the front drive and goofy look just don't appeal to me. I bought a 95 Signature TC, and I am really really happy with this car. Repairs are relatively easy, and reliability is top notch.
Q:they say that the front brake is like 70% and the back is 30 (or maybe 60/40) but anyways, which one would you normally use to slow down? i would guess the back one would be slowing down and the front would be for full stops? i dont own a bike yet, but of course, im curious and doing research.oh yea, if you slam on the back brake (the one near the footrest) your wheel wouldnt stop right? just slow down?
When it comes to braking power, old front engined, rear wheel drive drum brake cars were usually approximately 75% front, 25% rear. Front engined, front wheel drive cars are more like 80-20 (that's why you don't want to swap proportioning valves between the two. Most bikes with front discs are more like 90-10. When was the last time you saw someone do a stoppie with an old drum braked bike? Scooter made some good points, but telling you to apply both brakes evenly is wrong (sorry scooter). How much brake you use at either end depends upon the particular braking situation. Often times, in low speed braking like in town I use the front brake only. On a gravel road I may use the rear brake only and never touch the front. Compared to a moderate stop, in hard braking I use more front that rear and the harder the stop, the more front/less rear. People who use too little front and too much rear brake go through rear brake pads sooner than front pads. If you're braking correctly, you will normally wear out the fronts sooner than the rear, even with double discs. People who don't use enough front brake also take much farther to stop than they should, increasing their chances or rear ending someone or running off the road. One suggestion, don't use much brake when cornering hard. You're already using much of the available traction the tires have and you don't want to add even more load. Also, find a clean deserted parking lot and practice braking, especially the front. Going slowly, grab a handful of front brake and make the front tire bark or even lock up. Going slowly, you'll be able to catch yourself and not dump the bike. Keep increasing your speed and learn to make the front tire howl but not lock up. Then worry about using the rear brake in conjunction with the front.
Q:i wanna learn the motorcycle willy.?
I met motorcycle Willy one time.helluva nice guy. Sorry man, just playing. I think you mean wheelie, as in riding on the back wheel. First you need a bike with enough power. More experienced riders can pretty much wheelie on anything but for a beginner you need the right bike, Basically gas the bike hard enough to get the front end up. Start by learning to just lift the front wheel for a few feet without lifting the front too high. As you feel more comfortable bringing the front up, keep lifting it a little higher each time until you reach a point that you can balance the bike in a wheelie. If the front starts to drop give it a little more gas, if the front wheel gets too high gently tap the rear brake.
Q:When downshifting on a motorcycle is it possible to put in neutral to save on the extra wear and tear of the gears rather than go down each gear according to your speed? I mean like when I‘m driving my car instead of downshifting from say 5th to 4th gear I put it in neutral and just put it in whatever gear I need when I know what speed I‘m gonna be doing at that moment like say 3rd gear or what not. Plus when first riding a motorcycle what‘s the hardest thing to learn to do when riding one? Like say a deer jumps out in front of you when your riding. How do you keep from flying over your handle bars if you gotta come to a abrupt stop? Thanks in advance for all who answer.
1) Take the MSF course! Would you try to solo an airplane without having taken lessons first? 2) Budget for some safety gear. You don't have to spend huge bucks to get good, new gear. Helmet $100, Gloves$25 for summer gloves or $40 for winter, Jacket $150 with armor, boots $40-$100 and you can use better hiking boots. After you've been riding a couple of months you'll have a list of other gear you'll want. 3) Keep learning and practicing. Read the moto mags, like Motorcyclist, Cycle World, Two Wheels Only (props to the Britmags!). Not the TA rags. Learning doesn't stop until after Death, which can happen from not learning. 4) I don't know what side of motorcycling/scootering/etc. you're attracted to, but do remember that the street is not a race track. There are no corner workers to show you a flag for a hazard ahead, animals are not cleared from the road, people don't have to know squat about driving to get a license (and they really are out to get the biker), and the road isn't glass smooth.

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