API Cast Steel Check Valve A216 WCB Body Material in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351

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Shanghai
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10 pc
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500 pc/month

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Product Description:

The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


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This is quite common. If water is leaking on the floor from the hose, replace the hose with one of those user friendly flexible hoses called toilet supply hoses from Home Depot or your local hardware store. It could be the gasket but your hose is probably old and replacing it may save you a small flood. Your shutoff sounds like it needs to be rebuilt, but you as you mentioned, this is not critical because it is on all the time anyway. You can try buying the exact same shutoff, then shut off the main water supply, then take the shutoff apart (without removing it from the supply pipe) and replace the guts of the valve. The part where it attaches to the incoming supply is probably fine, so rebuilding the guts of the valve should work. Use Teflon tape when you connect the new supply hose and be sure to drain the water from the back of the tank with a cup and sponge before you remove the old supply hose.
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sounds more like anxiety to me.I agree wid Rhianna
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No. that's not gas tight and the plastic factors would possibly no longer delight in the petroleum ecosystem. you will choose a valve it is meant for propane. And the suitable valve would matter on the rigidity the place you meant to place in the valve interior the line. you will additionally would desire to layout the entire element very intently - no open touch relays - to steer away from a spark that would spark off errant propane.
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If the PCV valve becomes disconnected it allows a direct intake manifold vacume leak. This will cause the engine to stumble and run bad and even die during idle. It is easy to lacate and fix. Look for a medium sized hose running from your throttle body on top of the intake going down to the top of one side of the valve cover/s. You should see the PCV valve. Just ensure that it is connected. To tell if one is working properly you need to clean it up and blow through it. It will allow you to blow one way and not the other.
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Check back on your website to see if they have the procedure for removing/installing the new stem. These usually have to be turned to allow them to be removed. You should be able to purchase a tool to help you release it. Also, be aware the old stem could be hard to remove due to build-up and/or torn seals. After you get it our, try to remve and deposits in the valve and then apply a little lubricant to the new stem before you insert it. Be sure the lubricant is compatable with the seals.
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the aggregate is slightly skinny. The exhaust will smoke much less, however the appropriate end will ware quicker then standard. replace the piston rings as quickly as a 12 months could shop the engine risk-free.
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the oil may need to be changed check your water and transmission fluid check the brake fluid, have someone to put a new gasket in that is where you may be loosing oil
Q:i have a 96 mitsubishi galant and when you press the accelerator it rattles in the valve cover?
You might not need new valves or valve guides. Mitsubishis, along with many other vehicles, use hydraulic lifters which give off a ticking sound. They're located between the rocker arm, or in the rocker arm, and the head of the valve. It's very common and will not harm the engine. However, if the sound you're hearing is more of a rattling, like putting some nuts and bolts in a glass jar, you may need to pull the valve cover off and inspect for yourself to make sure that the rocker arms do not have any play to them while they are pushing on the valves. If there is any play in the rocker side to side, you may need to replace those rockers. However, if there is any play up and down you may just need to replace the lifter. To better check if you need new valves or valve guides run through this checklist: Are you burning oil? Have you done a compression test (both wet and dry)? And if so, were the compression numbers within spec? Have you felt a loss in power/idle quality/gas mileage? Is your oil level correct/using the correct oil/non-FRAM oil filter? At your next oil change, instead of using the recommended 5W-30 engine oil, try switching to something a little heavier, such as 10W-30, to cancel out the effect of possible lifter tick. Do not use a FRAM oil filter if you have in the past since they're filters tend to have additives that are unnecessary and may cause the engine harm.
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Schrader Valve Pressure Rating

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