• Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV System 1
  • Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV System 2
  • Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV System 3
Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV

Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Product description
AS submerged sewage pumps are late-model sewage discharge equipments designed and manufactured on the basis of the advanced pump technology from Germany ABS and so on. Featured by simple structure, robust discharge capacity, high efficiency, and energy conservation etc. This type of pumps can be equipped with automatic control cabinets and automatic installation coupling device, making them finely configured and running more dependably.

 

Application

Applicable forhandling liquid containingsolid particles and long fiber, seriously polluted, viscous and slippery, sewage, clean water and other mediums similar to water in the industries of pharmaceutical, papermaking, chemicals, hospitals, hotels, and domestic sewage drainage system etc.


Technical Data

Flow rate: up to 145 m³/h

Head: up to 22 m

Speed: max 2850 rpm

Temperature: max 60 cetigrade

Casing pressure: up to 0.6 MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: cast iron, stainless steel, duplex

 

Data Sheet

Type

Capacity (m3/h)

Head   (m)

Speed  (r/min)

Power  (kw)

Voltage(V)

Diameter(mm)

AS10-2WCB

15

4

2850

1.1

220

76

AS10-2CB

151

4.5

2900

1.1

380

76

AS16-2CB

29

7.6

2900

1.5

380

76

AS30-2CB

42

11

2900

3

380

76

AS55-2CB

45

13

2900

5.5

380

127

AS55-4CB

100

7.5

1450

5.5

380

152

AS75-2CB

60

18

2900

7.5

380

127

AS75-4CB

145

10

1450

7.5

380

152

AV14-4

22

5.8

1450

1.4

380

76

AV55-2

30

20

2900

5.5

380

76

AV75-2

30

25

2900

7.5

380

76

 

Q:I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.
Are you forgetting to mention something? Ah! Year, Make and Model. Engine size is a plus ... only a fool who knows nothing will answer your question without knowing the at least needed to know information ... What do you mean: if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? You've said: Timing chain and yet, the first answer by You may be right said: If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. See what has happened when the needed to know information were not specified? .. and how do you expect any of us to know the question you have mentioned before and could not read your history in YA? I've rest my case ...
Q:All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?
There are pressure switches that have a low water cut out on them.If the pressure drops too low the switch will turn the pump off.This however my not be a 100% cure.If you used just enough water to turn the pump on and then shut the flow of water off and the pump was not pumping water for the reasons you stated it would continue to run and not build up enough pressure to turn it off.If you wanted to do some sort of timer you could contact an electrician and ask about a timer that could be acctivated when the pump comes on. I am not aware of any thing on the market made for this but a good electrician would know where to get the right components to do this.
Q:Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 6-6e^(-.09t) liters/minute, where t is in minutes since the pump is started. If the holding tank contains 1000 liters of water when the pump is started, how much water does it hold one hour later??Round your answer to one decimal place.
Three okorder /
Q:The truck is a 1982 Ford pickup F100. We didn't realize it was an F100 at the time and we put the F150 water pump on it. The water pump fits perfectly, but is this going to mess up the engine at all?
Here's the deal: F100 - F150 doesn't mean squat. The engine cubic inch displacement does. Both engines have to be exactly alike.
Q:i have a 97 mercury mountaineer and i recently got the thermostat changed in it. after doing so we noticed that the car was leaking antifreeze. we checked to make sure everything was tight and there was no cracks and my uncle said he thinks its the water pump how can i tell
look at the water pump. do you see coolant? if everything is covered in coolant, clean it off with brake clean, then run it and look around the water pump again. It probably is the thermostat housing though. seeing as how they took that off recently. so look there too.
Q:i wanna use a water pump to pump air...but im afraid that it might burn or sth....
No. A centrifugal type water pump wouldn't move much air, and a constant displacement type would be designed to be lubricated by water.
Q:Where is the water pump?How do i take it out, and replace it?
Drain Cooling System. Remove right front lower fender shield. Loosen pump pulley bolts Remove Accessory Drive Belt. Remove pump pulley bolts and remove pulley. Remove pump mounting screws Remove pump. Remove and discard O-ring seal. Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surface. Reassemble in the opposite order. This will be a good time to replace your thermostat and check all hoses for wear and leaks.
Q:I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...
New thermostat, yet have you ever tried a decrease temp thermostat? Our RV 479 CI used to run a million/2 way up and three/4 in end/bypass and close to the pink line up mountain roads. I placed a decrease thermostat and it runs a million/4 and <a million/2 end/bypass. severe temps are dry out electric powered cord rubber insulators and that i have had to replace diverse the ignition wires. also it is frustrating to crank reason you have become vapor lock. The gas contained in the gas is so warm is turns to vapor and the gas pump can no longer longer suck gas because it isn't reliable adequate to suck vapor, in ordinary words liquid gas. if so, flooded start up tactics might want to artwork. floor the gas, shop it floored and crank the starter. Pump like loopy also, yet shop you foot in truth floored. it would want to start up.
Q:i have an underground water tank, my jet pump went out again, got a new one, waiting for the guy to come install it. i got an old fashioned iron hand pump, for when the electric, or the pump goes out again, i can pump out water. got pipes, fittings, foot valve. i just dont know what kind of base to make ,to bolt pump to, over the pipe that will come out of the ground. any ideas?
you can make a wooden floor cover using a treated good lumber of 1 X 6 for the floor and 2 X 6 lumber for the floor joist. assemble the 2X6 lumber for the floor joist. depending on the top area of your water tank. arrange the floor joist at 0.60 meter spacing and 1.2 meter braces. after that, use 1X6 lumber as flooring with at least 2 cm spacing between lumber. as on the base of your pump, you can reinforce it by adding 2X6 braces. use a lug bolt depending on the size of the slot at the base of your pump then bolt it on top of the 1X6 flooring. its better if we can draw it here to make it easier to understand and explain i dont know if this can help much because we havent seen the actual situation of your tank and your pump.
Q:I have a pump connected to a lake, that I use to water garden. I changed the line into the lake as it had a air leak and lost it.'s prime.I have filled water back into the tank and lines .several times. And it hasn't caught it's prime. It is a year old pump that came with it's own tank.When I am doing all this I leave the tap end closed.I'm pretty sure that all is tight and not leaking.The line into the water is only about 5ft deep
Lake Water Pump

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