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So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
I own an 80 year old house -- a home originally built as temporary housing for people working in the airplane industry during the war, and for returning soldiers. Temporary housing that is better structurally than many new homes. In fact, the original design and work was brilliant in its simplicity and precision, and I have found that the problems with my house are the result of work done later on -- additions and fix ups that screwed with the original integrity. One thing I have learned RE old houses is it is often best to leave well enough alone. This does not mean one should not address definite problem, or add certain features, but it does mean one has to think things through and do a great deal of research before acting. As you say, the structure of the roof is the original, so all the folks who had the house before you must have been doing something right. If I were you, I would ask around my community, do some internet searches, and find someone in your area who is an expert on dealing with historical structures of the area. This person will not necessarily be a master craftsman with a PhD in history and another in architecture. It may actually be a skilled handyman or carpenter who is continuing the old family business. He also probably lives in an old farm house, or knows plenty of folks who do. THAT is the guy you want to consult.
Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
Lot of info missing to give you a good answer. Thickness of insulation. Slope of roof. But what it really comes down to is the building code in your area, contact local building inspector,
Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
Closed cell spray foam applied to the inside of your roof sheathing will work just fine. It needs to be installed by a specialty contractor. Good Luck
this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
CUT ACCESS HOLE I/S HOUSE BLOW FOAM, IF YOUR LAST NAME BILL GATES! TRY FIBERGLASS BLOW DYI @ HOME DEPOT OR ROCK WOOL EVEN CHEAPER VENTILATE THAT ROOF - SOFFIT - TO LET AIR IN ROOF, RIDGE, AIR HAWK, WHIRLI-BIRD, POWER FAN ( SOLAR ), GABLE VENT - TO LET IT OUT!!!!
How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
What you could do is line inbetween the roof trusses with fibre wool and then fix heavy cardboard sheets over them to keep them in place. Alternatively you could engage the services of a specialist company who will come and strip off your tiles/slates whatever and spray an insulating foam on the inside thus sealing everything in place.
My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
You really need a correct "building paper" under the iron. It is aluminum with a tar sandwiched between...You can also use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier..
I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.
The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
why remove its a pain and if its old it could contain asbestos. just add best thing is to get the crumbly stuff they either blow in or you can buy it in sacks and just fill the attic rafters in the case of insulation more is more!!