The Middle Cold Resistant, The Glass Transition Temperature Of Minus 72 Degrees

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Product Description:

1. Description of Rubber:

Natural rubber is a kind of polyisoprene as the main component of natural high molecular compound, its composition in 91% ~ 94% is the rubber hydrocarbon(polyisoprene), the protein, fatty acid, carbohydrate, ash and other non rubber substance. Natural rubber is the most widely used general rubber..

 

2. Main features of Oil Seal:

1) High Elasticity, According To The Formula, The Elastic Can Reach 80% Of The Maximum.

2) High Elongation, The Maximum Can Reach More Than 1000%.

3) The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low, Than Some Rigid Substances Such As Iron And Steel And Other Low Much.

4) Cold Resistant, The Glass Transition Temperature Of Minus 72 Degrees

 

3. Rubber Images:

 The Middle Cold Resistant, The Glass Transition Temperature Of Minus 72 Degrees

 

4. Rubber Application:

Rubber elasticity, good insulation, impermeability and plasticity characteristics of natural rubber, and through the mix after appropriate treatment also has oil resistance, acid and alkali resistance, heat resistance, cold resistance, pressure resistance, wear resistance and other properties, therefore, has the widespread use, mainly used for automobile, machinery, industrial etc. industry as a shock, sealing parts.

5. FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely 

How about your company

A world class manufacturer & supplier of Rubber is one of the large scale professional investment casting production bases in China,consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 8000 tons Precision casting and forging parts are exported to markets in Europe,America and Japan. OEM casting and forging service available according to customer’s requirement.

How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management system every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

 


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Q:how dose turning and steering work in a multi axle vehicles?
On normal highway driving the steering input is really small. In sharp steering,however, you can see the effect and you are right, a vehicle with more than one rear axle is difficult to steer. In some designs there are options to make the extra rear axles free to steer to negotiate adverse situation such as met in city driving.
Q:Does a broken axle on my 97 vw jetta involve a non responding transmission?
You have 2 axle shafts. One to each front wheel. They both have to be connected for the car to work(otherwise you won't go anywhere) Consider it to be half of the driveshaft. You need the whole shaft to go. Let them fix it at the dealer. There is nothing wrong with the transmission however putting on the CV joint bolts and having them stay on(without them undoing themselves) can be a bear. And you need metric tools. Seems to me that it was in the process of undoing itself as those bolts are high carbon steel. If anyone has ever worked on the axle before(say replacing a CV joint or boot or pulling the transmission) those bolts will undo themselves unless done right. I think I do them right when I do them only to find out later after regular driving 1000-3000miles that some are loosened off completely. They are fussy. All in all it should take them a half hour if nothing else is damaged. But as you hit the curb, the wheel alignment will now be out and have to be done.and maybe a wheel rim and tire? It will take longer to do the whole thing.(of course)
Q:How do I fix my dropouts getting bent around my axles?
There are a couple of things at work here. lets take one at a time. First, I know a LOT of street riders and they almost never bend their axles or dropouts unless they crash. This would say to me that you are allowing passengers to ride on the pegs. NEVER allow passengers on pegs. If I'm wrong about this then, well, I stand corrected. It could be that your pegs are installed incorrectly. If your pegs are screw on type they need to be installed in this order- bike frame/washer/peg/washer/axle nut (inside the peg). Never just screw the peg onto the axle with the nut holding the wheel on. The support piece that you propose can just as easily be accomplished using chain tensioners- and they won't fall off. Finally, if your frame is aluminum your days are numbered. One day those dropouts will simply break off without warning as you are riding. If it is steel (crmo or hiten) these will take more time to fail and shouldn't fail abruptly.
Q:For a live axle in a go cart, should I order wheels with bearings or without?
A live axle normally refers to the rear axle, which is machined from a solid piece of steel. On each end should be a key way that will locate the hub and then the wheels are bolted to the hub the same way automotive wheels are. No bearings are involved.
Q:What is a cv axle and what does it do?
the cv axle is what makes it go but one side is for forward gears and the other is for reverse usually they both wont go out at the same time id try reverse then forward and while I was doing that listen for the tyranny to shift if it don't then it could be linkage if not its the transmission
Q:Replacing a CV Axle on my car?
If that is for both it isn't bad for parts and labor. If its for one its a little steep and if its labor only its way too much. Try calling a place that specializes in selling clutch/axle parts and ask the guy who quotes you a price for the part if he knows anybody who installs them for a good price. They almost always do and it would save you money. It doesn't require allot of skill so you should be safe with an unknown mechanic. Good luck.
Q:How do i connect these bike wheels to an axle and a wooden frame?
One thing you need to be aware of right away. If your frame is aluminum and you bend it with your hands, that is it. You need a new frame as that one could fail catastrophically at any time. If it is made of steel it can be repaired but that is nothing you can do and it will cost quite a bit. Assuming the frame is good. There are other things to look at. The rim may have loose spokes. The axel may be bent or both. Also the bearings could be mesh up. Most likely you will need a whole new wheel because cheap wheels are not worth to fix. You need to get ride of the washers and maybe get new nuts. Make sure they are tight correctly.
Q:What is an axle ratio on a vehicle?
The drive axle is said to have a certain axle ratio, this number(usually a whole number and a decimal fraction) is actually a comparison of the number of gear teeth on the ring gear and the pinion gear, example, a 4.11 means there are 4.11 teeth on the ring gear and one tooth on the pinion gear, or the driveshaft must turn 4.11 times to turn the wheel once, actually on a 4.11 rear there might be 37 teeth on the ring gear and 9 teeth on the pinion gear, by dividing the number of teeth on the pinion gear into the number of teeth on the ring gear the numerical axle ratio 4.11 is obtained, axle ratio also helps increase torque and also determine engine rpm at cruising speed.
Q:what is the difference in c/v axle and c/v joint on 1998 Honda accord?
the axle is connected to the joint,axle is solid metal piece joint is the rubber piece on the end with grease inside its is what usually needs replacing.
Q:Does the axle effect camber?
No. It does have an upper control arm - the strut its self. There should be no movement if the tire is grabbed at the top and bottom and push in and out. It probably will move if you grab the front and back and push in/out and that is fine. The other component you didn't mention. The lower control arm. It may be bent. Some light reading: THE MACPHERSON STRUT Earle MacPherson confronted both of these limitations when designing the Cadet in the mid-forties. The Cadet's track width was only about 48 inches (122 cm) -- fully a foot (30 cm) narrower than the track width of a contemporary full-size Chevrolet -- which didn't leave a lot of space for suspension components. Furthermore, the ambitious price target meant that the cost had to be reduced as much as possible. Beam axles would have been easier, but they would not have provided acceptable ride or handling, particularly considering the Cadet's low sprung mass. MacPherson's strategy was essentially to simplify the unequal-length control arm layout. The Cadet's suspension retained the lower control arm, which was actually formed by a relatively narrow transverse arm and a skinny, diagonal radius rod. Instead of an upper control arm, however, the wheel spindle was mounted on a vertical strut, mounted rigidly to the body. The strut incorporated a tubular shock absorber, and it served both as the upper control arm and as the axis around which the front wheels were steered. The coil spring was mounted over the upper part of the strut, near where it attached to the body; this saved space, and allowed the lower control arm to be thinner, since it didn't have to handle the loads generated by the springs.

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