Structual Quality Hot Dipped Aluzinc Steel Coil

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Product Description:

Aluzinc Steel Coil
Steel Grade & Standard:G550
Spangle:Minimized Spangle
Aluzinc Coating Mass:AZ40
Surface Treatment:Chromated, Unoiled, NonSkinpassed, Anti-Finger Print

Size:                              MOQ (MTS)

0.21mm x 914mm x coil      40

0.23mm x 914mm x coil      40

0.25mm x 914mm x coil      40

0.28mm x 914mm x coil      40


Package Type:EYE TO SIDE
Thickness Tolerance:+/-0.01mm
Width Tolerance:0/+5mm                      
Quantity Tolerance: +/-10%


VALIDITY: 3 WORKING DAYS
PAYMENT: T/T WITH 30% DOWNPAYMENT AND BALANCE AGAINST INVOICE & PACKING LIST
SHIPMENT: 50 DAYS FOR CARGO READINESS AND 15 DAYS FOR CATCHING THE RIGHT VESSEL
OTHERS:  ALL WORDS AND SENTENCES SHOULD BE IN ENGLISH



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Q:steel guitar, can i use bronze strings?
Are you talking about a steel guitar or a steel string guitar. Bronze strings won't work properly on a steel/lap steel/electric guitar but hey are designed to be played on an acoustic or acoustic electric steel string guitar. Light gauge strings are OK. However, the low E may be too thin if you tune that down to D. Another thing to consider is that the neck truss rod probably needs to be adjusted slightly if you change string gauge. This procedure is fast and simple if you know what you're doing. You should however leave it to someone else if you don't know how it's done. If you play all the time in drop D, I would probably use a set of medium strings or have a light set and use a heavier low E-string. Personally, I use drop D on my acoustics from time to time. I use light strings and find this to work well for me.
Q:Will my damascus steel knife rust?
From that point of view the strength or edge-holding ability means very little. Specifically, the bushcraft knife is pattern welded steel. True damascus or Wootz steel is something you'll only find in museums and private collections. they stopped making it several hundred years ago. Despite what many people have claimed, Wootz damascus was inferior to modern tool steels in every respect. It was a brittle, dirty material.
Q:Steel Garage...........!!?
Maintaining Your Steel Garage: # Clean your garage doors with a mild detergent using a soft car brush four times a year. # Clean the doors whenever they wash you car (washing your garage doors regularly will reduce the build up of corrosive elements) #Avoid using any abrasive cleaners or corrosive chemicals on or around your garage doors. # Avoid using salt near the garage door as it may corrode the door elements / hardware. Or you can paint your steel garage: #Step 1 Clean the door using a low-pressure sprayer. Combine 5 gallons of warm water and 1 cup of low-phosphate detergent to clean the surface. Rinse well and dry the surface. #Step 2 Lightly sand and smooth the scratches which do not go through to the metal substrate. Dust off sand residue. For a door with a baked on finish, use a powdered cleanser (diluted with water) and a soft brush to rough up the surface for better paint adhesion; do not use sand paper. Rinse with water and allow it to dry. #Step 3 Apply primer to areas where scratches permeate to the metal substrate to avoid future rusting or corrosion. Allow it to dry. #Step 4 Paint the door with an even coat of latex exterior house paint. If your steel garage has a dent check out the site(the last source link at the bottom)
Q:is steel flexible?
Steel is a flexible material. It can be deformed and return to it's original shape up while the stress applied is still in the elastic range. How flexible depends on size, shape, and alloy. Some alloys are more flexible than others and a lot of this is controlled by carbon content.
Q:How to bend stainless steel?
We are regular buyers of such bends.
Q:Steel WareHousing.......?
Steel okorder.com/
Q:AR-15 rounds - steel vs. brass?
Steel is a far more common thus cheaper metal than brass which is made of copper and zinc. The steel case stays in the firing chamber so does not do a thing to the barrel. It does have a different coefficient of expansion and when the gun gets hot it could jam in the chamber more than brass. Some of the steel has a lacquer coating on it that could gum up the works. The biggest disadvantage with steel is that as it is worked it gets weaker so reloading it is not real practical as you will get a lot of blown cases and head separations. In the long run you come out ahead buying brass and reloading than you do buying steel and throwing it away.
Q:timber truss versus steel truss?
How about another option - Steel Re-inforced Concrete Beams. Beam planks would span 8.4 metres but to keep the cost down have an I beam support at 4.2m. Concrete is great. It goes on quick, is sound proof, (very nice when it rains or for road traffic), can have gravel laid on top to act as a heat sink for winter sun and can be covered with normal roof steel if you want to hide it. Its also rust and borer free. While you would need good supports for the front and back, although with an I beam you can have a floating front, it is not much more than what is required for a wooden top. Design it right and your roof could be a future floor for the next addition.
Q:how to understand the chemistry of a metal.. especially steel.. from their names...?
For steels with a four number code like 1020, 4140 ect the first two digits are the alloying information. I think you need to memorise those. 10 steels are plain carbon steel with no alloying. 41 steels are chrome-molly. The third and forth digits are the carbon content. 1020 is 0.2% Carbon, 4140 is 0.4% carbon. I don't know if there is a system to stainless steels.
Q:How would you encase steel in concrete?
OK, here is my take on it Take equal lengths of steel wire, one is going to bare, one is going to be encased You will need a tension rig, simply this will be one fixed end and one end you can hang a weight down. For the test you will affix one end and string it between to supports with one end hanging off, which is where you will put the weight. The put a ruler where the weight is, so as the weight pulls the wire down (after it is hot) you can time the stretching. lastly you need a place to put a controlled fire under the wire, I'd reccommend something tame like a camping stove OK, got a test rig and two pieces and a way to test. You'll have to play with different fires and weights to see what works best Putting the concrete on the wire is a tricky one since you don't want the concrete to take the load. Get a tub or dish of approriate size and put some wet concrete in it, partway up. Take one of the wires and coat it with wax or something like it that is soft. Place the wire, with the ends sticking out, in the concrete tub and pour more on to cover it. Let this whole thing harden. You might want to have a specific shape to the tub so it comes out a certain size Now, you have an uncoated wire and an coated one. Be careful you don't pull the wire out of the concrete Another way to do this would be to use joing compound, which is a type of mortor (cement). You can buy it a home depot or such. Mix it up as thick as possible and just cake it on the wire and let harden. You can shape the coating using saran wrap or something maybe. I my world we call this stuff monster mud, its used to shape things for Halloween props like robes into figures. Its quite sturdy when done When you are ready to test just hook each part up with the same fire and weight and take readings of stretch vs. time

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