Polycrystalline solar panels for residential systems

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Characteristics of Polycrystalline Solar Panel

I Solar Cell : High efficiency crystalline solar cell. Even if under the weak light, the solar module can produce maximum power output.

II Tempered glass (toughened glass): Anti-reflecting coating and high transmission rate glass increase the power output and mechanical strength of solar module.

III EVA and TPT: Using high quality EVA and TPT to prevent destroying and water.

IV  AI frame: Without screw, corner connection. 6 holes on the frame can be installed easily.

V Junction box: Multi function junction box with water proof.

VI Long lifetime: ≥25 years; Less power decrease.

VII Good performance of preventing from atrocious weather such as wind and hails.

VIII Resisting moisture and etching effectively, not effected by geology. .

 

Standard Test Conditions of Polycrystalline Solar Panel

The opto-electrical specifications shown below are stabilized values being measured at Standard Test Conditions of multicrystalline silicon Solar Panel, Irradiance: 1000W/m2, Spectrum: AM1.5 at 25°C, The info below is subject to manufacturing tolerances. Where appropriate minutes of measurement are available and are used for the dimensioning of the installation.

Currently,We have 250w-300w solar panel stocks in Both West and East Coasts made in Vietnam,India,Korea,Malaysia and Japan.Meanwhile,we also arrange production line in Wisconsin,USA.If you're interested,please contact us soon.

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Q:Will a 2W, 2V mono solar panel power up a laptop battery?
I'm afraid neither of these panels will do much for charging or running your laptop. If the power brick is supposed to emit 5 volts at 5 amps, that's 75 watts. Neither of those panels provides enough voltage and the power output is obviously far too small. The capabilities of solar power are vastly overestimated for small panels. Sunlight is limited to about kilowatt per square meter under ideal conditions (summer time, clear blue sky, for a few hours around noon in the US southwest). But consumer panels top out at about 5% efficiency, so your limit is 50 watts per square meter - in other words you would need about half a square meter, or about six square feet, of panel to provide 75 watts. And even under ideal conditions you will only get that much for a few hours each day. Also, the panel's voltage output is not regulated, so even if you find a panel that emits 5 volts (this would actually have to be made up of groups of 30 cells in series, as they emit half a volt each at most) you can't just connect the panel output into your laptop's DC in. You'd need a regulated DC-to-DC supply, and since that is not 00% efficient it will cost a bit of the power... now you need even more panel area. All in all, not really a practical thing to carry along on a camping trip.
Q:How much do solar panels generally cost and are they efficient for my home?
If solar panels were cost effective we would all be buying them and you would see them on the roof of every home. They are not. It is cheaper to buy electricity from the electric utility company.
Q:how much power do i need from my solar panels?
Complex question.... Let me try to simplify it some: Make a list of every electrical device you MUST have. Add to the list how many hours a day it is actually ON. Add to the list how many watts (listed on the label or Volts times Amps) the device uses. (If you have a measuring device, use it.) For each item, multiply volts times hours = watt-hours (this is total energy used per day). Also, add the watts column for all the devices (this is the maximum instantaneous power to be used). Your solar panels should be able to provide power for your total load, so your panel's output power should equal the maximum instantaneous power used. If you can limit how many devices are used at a time, you may be able to reduce the panel size. Look at the total watt-hours. This is the total energy. Your panels generate maximum output when they are perpendicular to the sun at noon on a clear day. They generate reduced output in the morning and afternoon. They also generate substantially reduced output on cloudy days. Also, did you want electricity at night? On cloudy days? You will need batteries.. lots of batteries. And batteries are inefficient.. figure about 50% efficiency after a few years. Basically, here is a very rough formula: Panel_watts = Load_watthours / hours_sun_daily / 60%_angle_efficiency / 50%_battery_inverter_efficiency Once you've figured out the panel's watts, watts/volts=amps. Your system can be 2V with more amps, or 48V with /4 the amps... but the watts are the same. Just the wiring is different. For the battery bank, you need to determine how much backup power you will need for nights and cloudy days. Look at the watt-hours needed at nite, multiply it by the number of days and then by 2, to allow for battery aging. Unless you only have a couple devices and an LED light or 2, it is going to be VERY expensive.
Q:Solar Panel Charging?
You're right. The solar panels must produce a voltage equal to or slightly greater than that of the batteries. So you need to either switch to a 2 volt battery or add two more solar panels of the same current rating.
Q:Are solar panels only effective in places where there is an abundance of sunlight?
But int the summer months you will have longer days than someone on the equator. Depending on your local power company, you may be able to back feed into the grid and draw back out the same amount a few months later.
Q:What would happen if a car ran over a solar panel?
Cars and SUVs weigh anywhere from a couple of thousand pounds up to ten thousand pounds. Solar panels are typically not designed to take that sort of weight. So the short answer is that it would crush the solar panel, and certainly damage the photoelectric cells inside it. - Stuart
Q:Does anybody know if there are any courses for solar panel installation, and/or what trades you need for this?
If you are in the UK, then the Centre for Alternative Technology courses (CAT in Wales) have had some great feedback.. .. A lot of companies are actively recruiting and offer training courses as part of their induction. Have a look at the bigger ones recruiting near you.
Q:question about Solar Panels?
Assuming that you have / will upgrade wiring sizes to carry the extra wattage, that the new total wattage resulting from the addition doesn't overload any existing charge controller, diodes and / or inverter you have installed, then paralleling it straight into one of the other 2 volt groups should do nothing but add current to the system. True, it will be somewhat imbalanced, but it will work. Your other options would be to reconfigure everything down to it's native 2 V configuration which will raise current and lower voltage, with the additional panel creating the additional current to raise the wattage or to put it in series with the other 4 panel clusters so that you would get 36 V and additional current to account for the raised wattage. One last approach might be to set it up on another battery bank of it's own (small and at 2 V) to then connect to the same inverter. You'd be getting more power and storage capability that way, sort of a partial backup system, really, that will take some of the load off the other components to help extend their useful lives and get a bit more flexibility into it as well. The choice is yours here. That is all the ways that the system can be connected in, assuming everything in the first sentence checks out;-) It's difficult to make a recommendation without knowing what other components are in use and what the maximum ratings they carry are. Just remember that parallel connections add current and voltage stays the same, series connections add voltage and the current remains the same and you can figure out what to do with this thing to help you if you stay within maximum ratings for the charge controller, diodes and / or inverter involved. Good luck and stay safe!
Q:How much does it cost to put solar panels on a house? ?
The most cost-effective solution, which the vast majority of new installs use today, is solar alongside the regular power company. That way, you need no batteries, and if the solar array isn't producing enough at any given time, you draw from the electric company. When the array is producing more than you need, instead of just throwing that power away, the power company buys it (usually). In short, yes, you will still have an electric bill, but a smaller one. On our house, the electric bill was a little less than $5 a month, with an end-of-year settlement of an additional $2. How much does it cost? Unfortunately, that's like asking how much personal transportation costs. Some people need a van to transport the kids to soccer, some may get by with a motorcycle, others may need only a bicycle. The best thing is to contact a professional installer to get a quote based on your location and electrical usage. Solar electric does not make financial sense in all areas. Our array cost $2,000 but don't use that as a guide. Yours might be 0 times that, or half that, depending on your area and needs.
Q:Solar Panel Demonstration Ideas?
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