• Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve ISO5208 System 1
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve ISO5208 System 2
Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve ISO5208

Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve ISO5208

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Type:

Non-Rising Stem

Material:

Body:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron

Wedge:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM

Seat: EPDM / NBR

Shaft: SS410

Stem Nut: Brass

O-ring: EPDM, NBR

Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze

Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron

Operator:

Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator

Face to Face:

BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10

Flange:

BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50

Working Pressure:

16 Bar(200 PSI)

Design  and Manufacturer Standard

:

BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043

Test Standard:

API 598  BS6755 DIN 3230  JIS B2003

Application:

Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC










Q:My AC leaks and mechanic says it is shrader valve. Is it expensive?
It's cheap - even free if he's going to invoice you for re-charging the system. If he normally does A/C service he should have an extra one on hand. To replace it legally you would need a recovery machine to evacuate the system, replace the valve and then recharge the system. Probably $100. worth of service. To do it backyard style you'd put some gloves and goggles on, remove the leaky one and jamb the new one in while refrigerant is spewing out and then top up the system. Backyard style is almost impossible on a warm day because the refrigerant will be under high pressure, it would definitely make a good youtube video. If you did it on a very, very cold day (it stays in liquid form -15F), it would be easy because the refrigerant would be at a very low pressure.
Q:need a different pump for? Is this some improvement on the old valve?
first off they are not new ;-) These two standards have been around a long time. valve stems come in two types, schaeder and presta. Now i sometimes get these mixed up but I think Presta is the narrower valve. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me ;-) Either way there are these two types. Here we are referring to width/diameter not length. the thicker valves are usually on mountain bikes, some comfort bikes. the thinner narrower valves are usually on road bikes, some cross bikes, the type with skinny tires. Most bike pumps these days whether floor pump to mini pump will work for *both* Schaeder and Presta. The valve end on your pump (unless it's a piece of c*^ from Wallmart) SHOULD simply unscrew, reverses and voila! You can now pump up the tires of your MTB and your road bike or help another rider out! Now, on to your actual question ;-) Sorry for the drift. the long valve stems have to do with Aero wheels. These are rims, usually carbon that are designed to be very narrow and literaly slice the wind for faster acceleration. these are usually road bike rims, the skinny tires. Examples of Aero rims would be like Rolf Elan. Because of the design of the aero rim a longer valve stem is needed or it would literaly be lost within the carbon rim. But you don't have to have aero rims to have a tube with a longer stem. The stems on most tires are available in long, short, medium. I like to have the length match, it's just an aesthetic thing. But the function is exactly the same and the difference in weight is negligable. So to sumarise if you have aero rims you *must* choose tubes with a longer valve stem. If you don't have aero rims you can use them if you like, doesn't really matter, it's all what you like. but you do not need a different pump.
Q:I have a 3406b motor. It has blow by. This happened when I hired a mechenic to do a top end. I belive that he did not ajust the valves correctly or something happen to the motor. I want to gap the valves to see if this helps out. How would I go on doing this.
try using this link here to help you out. Dont know if you have engine brake or not. but u should be able to still adjust the valves correctly if you follow along with the process.
Q:so here are the details. i've been using my trumpet for about 6-8 years now and 1 if not 2 valves get stuck on my trumpet. the problem is not the oil as i have over oiled them too and no go. its that when i try to put my valves back in their place and twist them they don't stay in place,move ,and making either my valves stuck or making my trumpet not do a sound. what should i do? repair shop or buy a new one? i hear the clicking sound when i put them back but still all that does is either make my valve more sticky
Trumpet valves have metal or plastic tabs that fit into grooves on the casing. They keep the valve in allignment. It sounds like the tabs on your horn could be broken. I suggest letting a repair shop do the work.
Q:I know what a valve is, but I would like to know what an actuator does?
The valve is connected to a piston so when it is open the piston is pushed out providing a force or motion at the other end. Usually when the valve is closed a spring will return the piston to the initial position or there may be another valve at the other end to push the piston back. High pressure air or some sort of fluid is used to supplied through the valve.
Q:I have a hot water oil burner. I need step by instructions on how to replace the pressure relief valve.Do you know?Please help me.
Your first question should be why did my releif valve fail! is the expansion tank waterlogged or low on air pressure, is the water fill valve allowing the system to overpressure, is the aquastat failing or improperly adjusted....You need to figgure out what made it fail before you throw money into a new valve. beyond that the other guy said it fairly well, personally i would isolate the boiler if there are valves on the supply and return, release the pressure AFTER killing the power to the boiler and letting it cool off, knock the pressure off the boiler, spin the valve off, dope the threads and reinstall...not hard...remember righty tighty lefty loosey
Q:I've been diagnosed with mitral valve prolapse, my doctor just told me that i need to setup an appointment with the hospital to look at treatments for heart mitral valve prolapse-to possibly have a heart valve replaced. I am wondering if i should setup an appointment with mayo clinice in minnesota to get another opinion on that? I'm wondering if surgery is an only option available to me, i have been taking beta blockers that have been no help for the past 3-4 months. Thanks.
at the start, you ought to talk on your typical practitioner. they might certainly answer your questions extra proper than all of us right here. yet, i can assist you be attentive to that your situation can certainly be very uncomplicated. I certainly have a kinfolk member with an identical ingredient and he leads an exceptionally frequent existence and could no longer desire a valve alternative. If he engages in very actual interest (alongside with taking part in soccer), he does get drained certainly, yet different than that, he's high-quality. In case they did no longer clarify it to you (it seems they weren't very informative) right here is going: Your mitral valve is nearly a sprint door that opens and closes on your heart. once you have a mitral vavle prolapse, what which ability is that as quickly as that valve swings close, it closes and definitely swings IN slightly too far. (Ever seen a swinging door? comparable thought) This reasons slightly a leak. it is a few thing which will ought to be checked each few years in the process your existence, to verify that it does not worsen. touch your typical practitioner and ask her or him those questions, just to be on the risk-free ingredient.
Q:I was woundering if anyone had a repair manual for this valve on a 2004 Nissan Maxima. I just bought the car and Im getting the P1800 Code. Any help would be appreciated!
This is NOT a very serious problem. You have an ADJUSTABLE intake runner on this engine. THere is a vacuum operated CONTROL valve very visible with the hood open. It SHIFTS a doorway within the manifold to alter the path of incoming air. THere is a SOLENOID that controls this FLAP IT ALSO is easy to find in plain view if you follow the VACUUM to the valve. Many times ths VACUUM hose itself has collapsed, a VERY cheap repair. WOrst case scenario is to repalce either the SOLENOID or the actual VALVE. It has a rubber diaphragm within it. JUNK yards may have good used ones. You can remove the VACUUM to this valve, and try sucking on it to see if the valve MOVES the flap[ hidden inside the INTAKE MANIFOLD. EZ test, EZ fix. GOOD LUCK!!
Q:A question about a hot water radiator bleed valve. I read the advise on previous questions and bleed all my radiators except one where the bleed valve broke off when I tried to turn it with the key. My question is that on the other side of the radiator near the floor there is a black knob that turns which I assume should shut off the radiator. If my assumption is correct then I should be able to shut this off and then remove the bleeding valve and replace it without bleeding the system.. Does this sound right? Thanks,.JOE B
Very easy but quite slow. Open the bleed points on the upstairs radiators and the system will fill evenly. Shut the bleeds when the water reaches them of course. If the pump is accessible loosen the big screw head on the top of it and the will bleed air from the pump. When you think the system is full and the noise of entering water stops then go around to all of the upstairs radiators and check that there is no further trapped air.
Q:Alright. The engine is a 7mgte. The clearances for the skims in the intake side is 0.20mm and the exh side is 0.25mm. What happens if i mixed the shims?
It does make a difference on which shim goes where! Make sure pushrods are in the right place, i'm not sure on that type of engine but some engines have different lengths for pushrods intake could be different length than exhaust! You could also have a bad lifter.

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