insulated flexible insulation mylar aluminum air glasswool insulated flexible

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Product Description:

Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

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Q:How do I insulate an attic with only 5 inches between the inner ceiling and roof?
There are closed-cell expanding foam insulation materials that can be installed through rather small holes in the ceiling. The advantage of this material is that it also serves as a vapor-barrier - a critical function in your case. Not cheap, but very effective. Make sure you install roof vents to prevent excessive heat from developing above the insulation - but with foam, this requirement is far less onerous than with blown in or batt insulation.
Q:We need to remove are old roof insulation, how shall we go on about it?
I was an insulation installer for a time and this is what we did. We never took out old insulation; this is even when we blew it into the walls. We used cellulose wood fiber aka recycled paper preferable news paper and phone books. After the stuff was ground up Borax and Boric acid was added to make it fire proof. This stuff was blown in on top of the old stuff, usually 6 to 8 inches. All you do is have one person in the attic who sits down, with a hose in hand you plow it in and take measurement as you move along to be sure it is the thickness you want. Try to keep it even and smooth (like icing a cake). The other person stands next to the blower, which is place outside our in the garage (ours was in the back of a truck). This person must keep the hopper full and walk from the blower to the attic to physically look at you for safety reasons. Both must were face mask over your mouth and nose, you may want to wear goggles as well. I didn’t like goggles because they fogged up. Before you start work out emergency calls and other communication. We did this by turning the blower on and off with the remote switch (which you must have in the attic). If you take the square footage of your attic to the store the sales person can tell you how much you need. This info use to be on the back of the bag and it is easy to do. Make sure you have the correct number of roof vent for the square footage of your space. Have a fun time doing it and it will be over in no time! The blowers may have the formula to figure how much you can do per square foot per hour. This will let you budget your time better, remember that formula is usually how much can be blown per hour; the other task will eat into that time frame. To do the side walls is a bit more involved, but if you need help with that as well I would be glad to tell you the details.
Q:the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
Sawdust is a definite possibility. It is highly toxic and an appropriate mask should always be worn when sawdust is present. Sawdust is a proven carcinogen. Depending on the type of insulation you used, it may contain chemicals (e.g. formaldehyde) or particulates (fiberglass) that can be irritating to the throat, lungs and/or nasal sinuses. Bottom line: be sure to wear an appropriate mask in the future. They are available at most hardware and all wookworking stores. Best wishes and good luck.
Q:Flat roof replacement,is bitumen used as flashing? What type of insulation is best when replacing a flat roof?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q:Why is the most insulation needed in ceilings or roofs?
well insulation in general is to keep the inside temperature different than the outside. since hot air usually rises, i think it is to keep warm air form escaping in winter. also you don't usually have a heater in the attic, or air conditioning so insulation will keep the air in the attic from having an effect on the air within the house. that is my idea as to why
Q:can i use a maximum 4" RIGID insulation to obtain an r-33 value on a commercial roof?
Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.
Q:What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?
I've seen as little as 2" and as much as 8".
Q:Can I ask my landlord to put better insulation in the roof?
You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)
Q:Can you use Great Stuff foam as insulation under a metal roof?
Probably could, but it would look like crap. Painting the roof white would do a better job of keeping the metal cooler. I'd install a ceiling fan in the center of the roof instead to force the hot air out.
Q:Can you insulate an attic in a house with a metal roof? (sweating)?
I own an 80 year old house -- a home originally built as temporary housing for people working in the airplane industry during the war, and for returning soldiers. Temporary housing that is better structurally than many new homes. In fact, the original design and work was brilliant in its simplicity and precision, and I have found that the problems with my house are the result of work done later on -- additions and fix ups that screwed with the original integrity. One thing I have learned RE old houses is it is often best to leave well enough alone. This does not mean one should not address definite problem, or add certain features, but it does mean one has to think things through and do a great deal of research before acting. As you say, the structure of the roof is the original, so all the folks who had the house before you must have been doing something right. If I were you, I would ask around my community, do some internet searches, and find someone in your area who is an expert on dealing with historical structures of the area. This person will not necessarily be a master craftsman with a PhD in history and another in architecture. It may actually be a skilled handyman or carpenter who is continuing the old family business. He also probably lives in an old farm house, or knows plenty of folks who do. THAT is the guy you want to consult.

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