• insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar System 1
  • insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar System 2
  • insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar System 3
  • insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar System 4
  • insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar System 5
insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar

insulated flexible aluminum air cooling duct heating insulation mylar

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q:Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
You can remove it, but why not replace it with rolled insulation? I'm sure you're local State Board of Health would disaprove of not having your tenant's homes properly insulated. You could get into a lot of legal trouble if you do not keep you apartment building properly maintained.
Q:I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3" and 4" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?
I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
Q:How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.
Well I can tell you from experience this is no slouch job. So many laws, regulations, and codes to abide by when preparing your house for an invasion. Be persistent in your search and you will find the right person for the job. Hey, maybe try calling Dr. Phil for some good references?
Q:I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
I am going to convert my loft, so was researching this subject as well. I once saw on TV (I think on Renovation program) how they make insulation from sredded paper - this was a very inexpensive and very efficient way of doing it. Also they said that the best insulation is the one made from sheeps' wool. You can buy this from major DIY stores. Have a look at the links below
Q:1) What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?
2" is what I always use.
Q:we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
You would be foolish not to add the rigid foam under the new rubber roof. It gives you a new surface for an expensive roof. Definitely follow the contractors advice on this one.
Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.
Q:the noise when it rains is very loud. can I place an insulation material under the polycarbonate roof to reduce noise? Thanks
You can put it up there, but it's effectiveness at cutting noise would depend on the thickness of the insulation but you should not hope for too much reduction as the hard poly roofing is screwed or nailed directly to the rafters and is a good medium for sound transference.
Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.

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