flexible ducts INSULATION aluminum CVBD insulation mylar
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
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Product Material
10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire
Product Feature
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:
1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept
Product Advantages
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:
1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed
- Q:Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
- that is being done now and is called solar heat where dark panels are installed on a roof and the collected heat is drawn into the home via a liquid medium. The alternative of which you speak: between the insullation and roof ,,is just not practical to build. nor would it provide a greater heat than the aforementioned.
- Q:Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.
- First, "green" building is not technically defined as far as the construction industry is concerned. i.e. anyone can call their products "green" until the parameters are set up to strickly define what is "green" and what is not. To date, it's been more of a marketing strategy than anything. (Unless this has changed in recent months) I'm glad to hear New Orleans is taking the right path in rebuilding the place! Hope to get back down there soon.
- Q:im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
- Be careful what you do under your metal roof. We installed foam spray on insulation under ours and now the inspector is saying it's not "to code" and we lost the buyer for our house because of it. Call a metal roof company - they may give you some free advice.
- Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
- Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
- I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.
- Q:Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
- Because air can circulate, (it's called convection) and transfer a lot of heat. In other words, air alone is a very poor insulator. .
- Q:Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?
- Not between tiles and roof sheathing, but YES on the inside of the sheathing, between the rafters. However, the recommended location is between the rafters on the FLOOR of the loft, unless you plan on using the loft as a living space.
- Q:we have liq. ammonia storage tank (capacity 40000 ton)having double wall & suspended deck.liq. NH3 stored at temp -33 degree cent. insulation (form ) being provided to annular space (wall ) but not on top roof . can you explain for exact reason.with regardsanvar shaikh
- Insulation is less necessary on the roof. The ammonia is mostly a liquid, and a liquid would absorb heat rapidly from tank walls. Above the liquid is vapor, and vapor absorb heat much less rapidly than liquid does, so insulation is less important there.
- Q:We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
- The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.
- Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
- I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
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flexible ducts INSULATION aluminum CVBD insulation mylar
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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