Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
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Product Material
10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire
Product Feature
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:
1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept
Product Advantages
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:
1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed
- Q: do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?
- Install it under the meatle roof, it is a lot easier to do and will save you more money overall when you are spending money. Thanks
- Q: we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
- on the outside, under the rubber? That's crazy. Don't go for it.
- Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
- The mold problem probably has nothing to do with the insulation. Main causes would be bathrooms with no exhaust fans or windows that open. Others could be leaks around windows that allow water to enter into the walls. Bad plumbing is also a possibility. Check for leaks. If there are dryers (clothes type), are the vents discharged to the outside? All these could contribute to the problem.
- Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP
- All versions of insulation are largely air that is kept from moving - air is a good insulator if convection - movement of heated or cooled air due to changes of density - is prevented. This assumes that a vapor barrier and caulking prevent actual air movement through the wall when a wind is blowing. Some insulators are also poor conductors of heat so the connection between inside and outside that might occur is broken. As it happens, glass used in fiberglass and minerals used in rock wool are actually pretty good conductors of heat in solid form but as fine particles and flakes they don't conduct well from one strand/piece to the next.
- Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
- You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
- Q: We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
- The attic will always be warmer than the house--that's the point of the insulation--to separate the heat in the attic from the cooler air in the house. However, to improve it even more, add insulation on the ceiling joists (not the roof rafters). Make sure there is plentiful ventilation in your attic (when the wind blows, you should feel it blowing inside your attic). Eave vents, ridge vents--it doesn't really matter which ones you use--but you have to have enough for the air to really flow.
- Q: The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?
- there is not any way no how ever that a roofing nail is going to show 4 to 5 inches after dealing with shingles and plywood. that should recommend a 5 a million/2" to 6 a million/2" nail. and there is only the slightest quantity of buckle and/or carry earlier the summer time solar flattens it completely. you should call in an self sufficient roof repairer and have him recommend you. until eventually you're seeing issues very incorrect, this is an entire screw-up. If it fairly is actual, then the extra important question is .....in the event that they could do some thing this nuts, what else have they botched? If self sufficient roof repairer supplies you undesirable information, do no longer seek advice from contractor until eventually you have first talked to an attorney.
- Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
- You will normally install both insulation and a vapor barrier, like a house, these go above the ceiling, but NOT the underside of the roof. Yes you should install vents, you need the air movement.
- Q: I added a screened room to my mobile home. I also have vinyl windows. in the summer the sun beats down on the home almost all day Someone told me I could have insulation installed in the roof panels, and that i may even be able to do it myself. Right now it's impossible to enjoy my patio between 1-5pm because it so hot you can't breath. I'm in the Pasco, FL area - 34667Appreciate any help you can give
- I agree with RustyNail that the panels are thin and not meant to support that kind of weight. But, I think a wall anchor that spreads the weight inside the foam would work if that's the only place to attach. I'm imagining that there's no wall available since these usually are just supported at the ends. If so, then my first suggestion would be no curtains at all. My second would be to find a long wall anchor. With 6" of foam, I would think you could do a 4" long anchor and get pretty good support. Rusty may disagree.
- Q: I would like to know which direction the one side with foil faces. The roof or the interior of the room?This is an attic room. Roof being "raw" i mean that it looks like cedar tongue in groove boards...then shingles on top of them. Which way do i face the foil side of the sheet..?thanx
- The foil side should go to the outside. I believe it's a moisture barrier.
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Fanfold Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil Mylar Insulation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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