Hot-dip Zinc Coating Steel --Our Best Price Best Quality in China

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50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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Hot-dip Zinc Coating Steel --Our Best Price Best Quality in China

1.Structure Description

Hot-dip galvanized steel coils are available with a pure zinc coating through the hot-dip galvanizing process. It offers the economy, strength and formability of steel combined with the corrosion resistance of zinc. The hot-dip process is the process by which steel gets coated in layers of zinc to protect against rust. It is especially useful for countless outdoor and industrial applications. Production of cold formed corrugated sheets and profiles for roofing, cladding, decking, tiles, sandwich walls, rainwater protective systems, air conditioning duct as well as electrical appliances and engineering.

2.Main Features of the Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Sheet

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability

• Excellent anticorrosive property

• High strength

3.Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Sheet Images

Hot-dip Zinc Coating Steel --Our Best Price Best Quality in China

Hot-dip Zinc Coating Steel --Our Best Price Best Quality in China

 

4.Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Sheet Specification

Standard: ASTM, JIS,EN

Grade: CS, DX51D+Z,SGCC, SS 230~550,S220GD+Z~S550GD+Z, SGC340~SGC570

Thickness: 0.18mm~5mm

Width: max 2000mm

Coil weight:3-12 MT

Coil ID:508/610mm

Surface structure: zero spangle, regular spangle or minimum spangle

Surface treatment: Chromate treatment, Oiled/dry, skinpassed/non-skinpassed

Packing: Standard seaworthy export package

 

5.FAQ of Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Sheet

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you

1.How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality testWe resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market.

2. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-30 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.

 

 

 

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Q:How much pressure can concrete and steel take?
Your question is not specific,there are many types of Concrete according to ratio and many types of steel but if want general answer,Concrete is good for compression and for 1:2:4 Cement-Sand-Gravel Ratio up to 4000 psi but very weak in tension where as tor steel is good for tension and is about 70000-80000 psi .
Q:How do you rate steel?
Its strong steel is rated by the precence of carbon in it. Higher carbon _ higher the price
Q:Movies Featuring The Steel Drum?
You okorder.com/.. If I can find any clips, I'll add them, but I'm sure that many movies in the proper settings (Trinidad, etc.) would have such music and/or show a group or at least a single performer. For example, Cool Running could be a possibility.
Q:how is steel made????????
That is an ENORMOUS subject that won't fit in this little box. Run an internet search on steel making. Essentially, steel is an alloy of iron and other metals chosen to give it the desired properties. These metals usually come from ores that are extracted from the earth. Actually, iron has too much carbon for most steel making purposes, and the carbon must be burned off. Iron is melted in a blast furnace, and oxygen is used to burn off the excess carbon. Then the molten metal is mixed with molten alloy metals and poured into molds to make ingots, which are blocks of steel of a size convenient for handling. Steel can also be made by re-melting scrap metal and adjusting the amounts of various adulterants or alloy metals at molten temperatures. The ingots are taken to rolling mills to be shaped into rods, pipes, sheet metal, and structural shapes. Molten iron and steel can also be poured into molds to produce complex shapes.
Q:Mag. Wheel (steel and aluminum info)?
Negative facts for steel wheels: (1) Not as many style choices as aluminum. (2) Rust easily even when painted or powder coated, due to rock chips. (3) Heaver than aluminum, as far as fuel economy. Negative facts for aluminum wheels: (1) More sensitive to proper torquing of lug nuts. IE torque must be checked more often. (2) Susceptible to impact damage from road hazards much more than steel. (3) Need constant attention to prevent oxidation. Are these what you are looking for? I hope so. Wingman
Q:When does steel start to Warp?
Steel will only warp due to temperature under two conditions: 1. It is not heated evenly - in this case, the hotter parts will expand more than the cooler parts. 2. There are internal stresses in the steel (often from welding or cold-working - as an example, an I-beam or C-channel is usually hot worked, but some cold work can happen, so they can sometimes warp if you heat them ). This means that the steel won't warp due to temp if it's not 1 or 2. However, it could soften and fail if it has a load on it. As for softening, it really depends on what steel alloy you're looking at. Some steels (mainly the expensive alloys) don't really change until above 400 C (750 F), but mild steel really starts to weaken around 150-200 C (300-400 F) Rajashekhar has a point when it comes to forging. Steel isn't really soft enough to forge properly until above 1000C (1830 F), but if you're worried about using steel in a higher temp situation (like around a blast furnace or industrial oven), then make sure you choose a steel that has been rated to work at that temp.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:Is my shotgun able to shoot steel?
It's fine. Like .700 Nitro said, lead is a softer metal than steel. . BTW- Tom, grow up. I doubt you have ever been hunting in your life. What the he!! does someone's S.S number have to do with hunting? Nothing jack $$. Here's some advice for you- follow me around for a few days down here... It will cost you a little bit more than $15 per hour. Down here, a guy will actually realize that he as family jewels.
Q:Does shooting steel case ammo in a AR-15 ruin/damage the gun?
Two reasonable answers here. But let me say this...I just don't like the idea of steel touching steel at a high rate of speed (like when it's being cycled in and out of the chamber of a rifle). I can't help but feel that some sort of erosion is going to occur to the chamber of the rifle - which obviously isn't a good thing. If it were me, I would stick with firing brass casings only. The only gun I would fire steel casings through would be a cheaper SKS
Q:Galvanized Steel??
I've welded galvanized steel before and the fumes were not nice. He should be okay, but stay in a ventilated place with a fan blowing fresh air on his face and try brushing some of the coating off with a wire brush before welding.

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