• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-SMP66086 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-SMP66086 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-SMP66086 System 3
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-SMP66086 System 4
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-SMP66086

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-SMP66086

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Glazed Porcelain Tile, floor tiles

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

Size

60x60 mm

Selection Range

Several Colors available

 

Features:

 

1) Unique natural sandstone image designs and exclusive quality;

2) Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

3) Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4) Material: porcelain

5) Basic size: 600x600x9.8mm, 100x600mm, 150x600mm, 300x300mm, 300x600mm available based on clients’ requirements;

6) Available dimensions

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600x9.8 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall

 

The glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, exclusive brand showroom, clubs villas as well as other public sites.

We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as 2nd production and final package.

 

 

Specification and technical parameter:

 

·         Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Anti-Resistance: R10

·         Delivery Time: within 15~20 days after order confirmation.

·         Package standard: 4pcs/carton, 40 Cartons/pallet, 32 Kgs/Carton.

 

Q: i need to cut a hole in ceramic floor tile. i have tried many things such as dremel with different ceramic tile cutting attachments and a carbide hole saw.what should i try next?
In the plumbing section of most hardware stores a cable saw can be found its used to cut pipe in hard to reach areas. some will cut tile. In the drill bit area find a Glass/ Tile bit big enough for the cable and go to it. a coping saw may work other thought. use tile bit to start and nippers, files will work as well use water as a lube. I hope someone else has a better Idea for you.
Q: How about a simple tiles? Good quality
Are almost it, you can tell how to identify the quality of tiles: The main production areas are: Guangdong, Shandong, Sichuan, Fujian. Look at the surface: mainly include, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles, tiles (Except for special pattern processing, such as roller printing products, for the pursuit of natural stone texture effect), to see whether there is any difference between the color and the color performance (color) , Each piece of brick patterns are different.To see the texture of tiles: good products generally firing temperature is relatively high, the product is more compact, knock on the sound more crisp to see the size of the tile: size uniform, the size of each piece of brick Non-edging products should be less than 0.5% of the side length, edging products should be less than the side length of 0.2%.) See the brick flatness: take a few pieces of brick on a more standard plane, between the brick and brick Whether there is no obvious high and low deviation
Q: so i bought tile but not the bull nose end pieces cause they did not have them for that tile. I tiled all the way out to the edge of the counter and now need a way to finish the edge. I have seen wood edges but what is this called and how do you do it? does it butt up against the tile of does it go over? is a wet tile saw supposed to leave ugly, chipped edges? bought a Brand new blade and it did not help.
How To Finish Tile Edges
Q: Or can I just start tiling over the painted wall?
I can't believe I, as the lone female answering, am going to have the right answer. Yes, you need backerboard. Simply put, you are tiling. Have you ever lifted a box of those tiles? And can you imagine one of them on that wall? Now, how about 10 of those boxes? You see, you are putting up tile and tile cement and tile group, all very heavy items, onto what may well be simple sheetrock. Yes, you need backerboard. Specifically, you want cement board, which is specifically designed to be used with tile and be waterproof. You see, in your zest to prove you can do it, you may well have a moisture issue come from an overlooked mistake in the tiling. Maybe it's the caulk at the tub seal, maybe it's in a corner, maybe it comes from an awkward merging of two tiles. Whichever it may be, you want a waterproof surface which will stay intact from such an issue ... sheetrock, no matter how nicely painted prior, simply won't do that. Yes, you need cement board. Ask anybody at your local home center if you doubt me ... and I, as the lone female, will now bid adieu.
Q: I need to take a tile that is on the wall under my bathroom sink cabinet to use it to replace some visible tiles. I know it‘s possible to remove the old damaged tiles, but obviously I don‘t want to damage the ones that I‘m going to use to replace the bad ones.
Possibly easier solution: look for some decorative tiles that would go ok in the place of those damaged ones... just a few to randomly place as accents (of course, this depends on where the broken tiles are). Possibilities include glass tiles, contrast tiles, patterned tiles, and embossed tiles, as well as tiles matching in tone but of a radically different texture. If you want to see how a particular tile might look on the wall in advance, take a digital photo of each tile you're interested in, resize to life size) and tape prints over each tile you want to replace. Yes, you can do as you propose. My experience with removing tiles for re-use are that I seem to get between a 40 and 70% yield of useable tile when I try to salvage 4x4 tiles. Depends on how good the initial mastic was.
Q: Figure, I was in the indoor shoot, only two lights 600W1200w, brick surface is not bright matt antique tiles, moved to remove the two sides still have, I do not want to shoot good-looking, is to accurately accurate design printing of. Is there any way? Do you have to be back? Polar mirror ok? By the way, what kind of high-reflective polished tiles to shoot?
As long as the light source and the tiles are not at right angles, most of the light will not be reflected back, it will not form a large glare. Simply put, that is, when the light to play side light.
Q: I have glazed porcelain tile to put in my bathroom, but the thing is... that is is only 1/4 of am inch thick... Is it still okay to use it?...
glazed tiles are fine to use in the bathroom, the important thing to remember is if they are set properly and to set on either mortar base or hardiboard. the main concern though, would be whether the surface is too smooth a finish when used on the floor, especially when the tiles are wet! this could become a hazard to your health! a lot of tiles used in a floor application, have a sanded or rough finish ,just because of that !
Q: I am installing 4.5 x 4.5 porcelain tiles on a drywall kitchen backsplash. Applying Omnigrip mastic using a 1/4 x 3/16 vnotch trowel. The tiles have a waffle grid pattern on the back which is about 1/16 deep. I tested the application of one tile and noticed that the mastic did not fill all the waffle depressions. Are they supposed to be all filled? DO I have to backbutter the tiles? Am I using the correct trowel size? Please help!P.S. What is the purpose of the waffle pattern in the first place?
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Q: I have ceramic tile in my bathroom and I don‘t like it. It‘s extra slippery and very cold in the winter. Yes I do use a rug but the parts that are exposed are cold. I want to put those peel-n-stick tiles on top of them, but what do I have to do to prepare the floor if it‘s even possible to do this? Thanks in advance for any tips and advice!
If you are going to be in your house forever, use carpet. If not, do not remove it as it is an asset to your property. If you use peel and stick in a bathroom, they will eventually start warping and lose their grip. I doubt the peel and stick tiles will be any better regarding temperature than the tiles you have now. Tiles are valuable when you go to sell and I would advise you not to change that. Use a rug if you want, but do not hide or change the tiles.
Q: I laid some ceramic tile about 6 years ago in a family room. There are some tile that sound hallow, Like they did not set in the adhesive securely. Nothing else is wrong with the tile, but it does sound hallow when you walk on it. I laid the tile on a concrete slab. How would you go about fixing this? I thought of drilling a small hole in the center of the tile and spraying some liquid insulation (that you put around windows) and grouting the hole closed with some grout the same color as the tile.
By coincidence I had the same situation once. No...! You don't want to do it that way. First the tiles can crack, it's not going to seal and the hole is going to be ugly. The only pain full solution here and it's not very easy is to cut the grout with a thin masonry bit and a drill moving along while you cut'em and very carefull so you don't crack the tiles and lift every loosen tile. Clean the old grout from every tile after removed and then clean the old cement from the floor with a spatula very smooth and then with a sanding grinder and a masonry disk out doors. Now you must use fresh tile cement to re install the tiles again. Good luck...!

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