• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231 System 2
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231 is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Tile Type

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Nano Finish

Size

60x60mm

Other Choices

many designs, size, colors



Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall


Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 YDL6CC231

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs. 



Q:I have a black and white tile floor, and most everything that I have tried has left it very slick even after it is dried. Does anyone know of any homemade product to clean it? I am also willing to try comercial products also. I am tired of my family slipping.
hot water with vinegar
Q:The tile of my garage is 10 years old. The house was abandoned and I bought it. The tile that was used was a textured ceramic tile. I‘ve tried brushing it and washing it with different products but it goes back to a dusty look. Any ideas on how to bring it back to life other than paying to get it polished by a professional. Thank you in advanced.
If you don't want to pay for the labor to have it cleaned, you will be the one to do it yourself. Elbo Grease. Get some Tile Acid Cleaner from the Home dpot/Lowes, and a couple of hand held scrub brushes, some plastic bristles, some metal bristles, (to see which works best). Get a spray bottle, poor the acid into it. do not delut with water. Not until after it has sat on it for 5 min and you have scrubbed and scrubbed. Then spray with water (lightly Misting) and wipe up with disposable towels. Dont forget the rubber gloves. After the entire floor is finished or until you are satisfied (or if you want to do in Stages) wait until entirely dry and get some Tile Sealer and begin to apply. Pay attention to the grout lines first then mop all over the tile. The cost for materials will be about $50--$70 But the labor is where the real money is. Have Fun I do not envy you.
Q:I‘d like to recover my kitchen floor with linoleum tiles - mainly because they are relatively inexpensive, I can do it myself and I can do it at my pace (not moving all of my appliances out in a day). Has anyone used them and if so, what do you like/dislike about them?
I think you're talking about Peel and Stick Tiles? If so, I'm not sure I'd use them in your kitchen unless you are an extremely clean person. I used Peel and Stick tiles in a rental house we own. The tenant got so much grease under the tiles by the oven that the tiles came unglued and were sliding around. Spaces of the old floor were showing between the tiles, and the spaces between were filthy. These tiles came up really easily, but the tiles in the rest of the kitchen were extremely hard to remove. It took days of work with a screw driver to peel those off. After I had removed all the tiles, I couldn't get any more Peel and Stick tiles to stick to the floor no matter how much I cleaned it. We finally used Vinyl Sheet flooring. (The stuff that is one large piece of vinyl.) We figured that the vinyl sheet doesn't have to be glued down and there aren't any individual tiles to pull apart from each other. The vinyl sheet flooring is still inexpensive. You can get it at some Big Box stores. It's a little tricky to lay the vinyl. We made a template using pages from a magazine. We taped them together, then moved the template carefully to the vinyl sheet. We then cut the sheet and moved the flooring to the kitchen. This worked, and I think it will survive better than then Peel and Stick tiles did. You would have to move all the appliances out of the kitchen in order to lay this type of flooring, though.
Q:More specifically, do you lay the tile right against the floorboard with no groat visible? Or would you put a spacer in between the floorboard and the tile so that it you have grout along the edge?
The best way is to remove the baseboard trim and tile under it leaving a 1/4 to 3/8 gap to the wall. Then cover that with the trim. If you absolutely do not want to remove the trim then you need to put a spacer along the wall so that all the tile is layed uniform. A batten as the previous poster stated is a good idea. You then want to remove the batten when the tile is set. Do not grout up to the wall however, it leaves no room for expansion and you will end up with cracked grout or worse, ballooning in the middle. You want to buy a caulk that is the same color as the grout (they sell them at most home improvement stores). Use this to caulk the seam at the edge between the tile and the trim.
Q:I have really old honeycomb tile in my bathroom and it would be extremely difficult to remove it. The surface is pretty flat .Would ceramic tile work best , or something like self stick vinyl tiles?
if it is the falt serface on the floor with the thin tiles with no grout just use leveling agent (lowes) to make the surface flat and level, and that will work perfect. Then u can come back with ur thin set and re tile the floor. using backer boards and such are too $$ and can be avoided as long as the serface is sold and stable.... on the walls hire someone at $8hr and have them tear out the tile in 3-5hrs then come back in the shower with green board and or hardybacker board and re tile it...
Q:How would one grout mosaic tiles on standing mirror?
Grout application on a mirror is exactly the same process as grouting a tile floor, back-splash, counter top, or table. Since the mirror is standing, I'd be sure that the mirror won't topple over when applying the grout because it has to be floated into the crevices between the tiles / tile pieces. If possible I'd suggest laying the mirror flat, either on the floor or on a sturdy worktable A grout float is basically a block shaped pushing tool used to force the grout between the tiles. Hold the float at an angle against the tiled surface and use a firm sweeping motion across the tile to push/force the grout into all the nooks, crannies, cracks and openings between the tiles. You'll have to work fairly quickly because grout becomes hard to work once it starts drying out. Work in a diagonal pattern and go back over any low or missed areas. Allow the grout to sit for 20-30 minutes. You'll know the grout is starting to cure when there is a light haze on the tile surface. Using a sponge and a bucket of clean water lightly buff the tile to remove the haze. This step may have to be repeated once or twice to be sure that all of the excess grout has been removed from the tile surface. If you want to seal the grout and tile, there are a number of sealant products available but you'll need to wait 3 or 4 days before applying in order to allow the grout to cure properly.
Q:I almost bought porcelin tile but I know ceramic tile is much more popular, what about the endurance factor between the two? I want to get something that will last and still look good.Does anyone know about flooring, and could tell me which is best?
a lot of porcelin tile has the look of some textures and colors but is really just transferred on. (if you look close, you can see the pixels) and they tend to crack more when they are being cut being they are more brittle and shatter, which can cost you some extra tiles. the transfer may disenigrate with time depending on how well it was made. ceramic tiles are hardier and tend to be painted or dyed instead of transferred. they are also easier to cut and dont crack nearly as easily if something is dropped on them. however, you can get a porcelin that looks like marble or granite whereas ceramic looks more rugged....
Q:I need to re-set some tiles on a roof that have slipped and replace some others. Also, I need to re seal my flashing around my vents. What am I getting into, and how hard is it to work on tile roof?
the tricky part to working on a tile roof is staying on it. and not cracking any additional tiles. usually when i repair a tile roof i set up scaffolding there are a bunch of reasonss . the tiles sre heavy and hard to handle on just a ladder, the scaffolding offers a nice work area, and most important its alot safer, you can go to any rental store and rent scaffolding, when resealing around flashing and vents use a rubber butyl caulk for longer durability
Q:There is a white ceramic tile floor with white grout in my bathroom. Some of the mastic (I think it was a combination mastic and grout, that could be used either way) is on top of the tile and dried on. Is there any way I can get it off there other than trying to chip at it and possibly ruin the tile?
Your tile has a glazed finish on the top side and while grout/mastic sticks to it to some degree, it doesn't really adhere very well. You should be able to use a rigid scraper to remove it and any fine residue will come off with a green scratch pad, all without doing any damage to the tiles.
Q:im doing a science project and i want to know how to get mold or mildew to from on a tile
Make sure that you are not using a sealed/finished tile. A terracotta or the back of a ceramic tile will work as long as you keep it damp. To start soak the tile overnight in a bucket of purified water, not from the tap. Tap water has chemicals to kill off the spores for mold/mildew. You'll need to always keep the tile damp so a warm damp place will be needed. If you know of somewhere with some mold/mildew spores growing, that'll speed things up. Otherwise, it may take weeks to grow naturally. If you do have a source for the spores, use a Q-tip swab to wipe the spores off and onto the tile surface. Good Luck

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