FSK Heat Insulation materials
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1. Description:
FSK7180 is the most popular laminated thermal insulation sheeting for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively, includes an reflective aluminum sheet and a fiberglass network disposed on and over a surface of the aluminum sheet
2. Construction & Benefits:
Reflective Aluminum Foil Lined With Kraft and Reinforced by fiberglass from 3 directions make this products durable. This Kind of FSK have more fiberglass as Scrim. So that thisFSK 7180 have more strength than FSK 7160
Aluminum foil which is a good barrier to moisture, rust and the air, and friendly to environment, good conductivity from the aluminum layer eliminates the electrostatic effect easily as exposure and kraft being liner to rise the strength, they sandwiched together through polyethylene as adhesive.
l High performance cost ratio: reasonable price and professional service.
l Environment friendly: it does not contain any hazardous or harmful materials.
l Convenient to use, easy to be folded into various shapes according to actual needs.
l Better resistance and tenacity according to glass fiber within.
l Reduces heat loss in winter, heat gain in summer.
l Not effected by moisture and humidity.
l No special handling or breathing protection required.
3. Application:
It could be used as reflection, packing paper, moisture proof, radiant barrier and easy to fold as your need.
1. As a heat insulation materials in car, train, roof and wall, also been attached to glass wool blanket, rock wool board, mineral wool for get better performance.
2. A laminated thermal insulation sheeting. for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively.
3. As a sound absorber in KTV room, cinema, opera house, factory and other building.(only indicates 7160P, 7150P)
4. Package of industrial products and other place that you want to use.
4. Dimension/Size
(1) Roll width: 1000mm, 1200mm and 1250mm
(2) Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.
(3) Core I. D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)
5. Similar products & guide
(1) DFC1001: Double sided aluminum foil supply better perfomance and function.
(2) FSK7160-P, perforate the FSK7160 as to absorb acoustic
- Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
- Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
- Q:I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
- I am going to convert my loft, so was researching this subject as well. I once saw on TV (I think on Renovation program) how they make insulation from sredded paper - this was a very inexpensive and very efficient way of doing it. Also they said that the best insulation is the one made from sheeps' wool. You can buy this from major DIY stores. Have a look at the links below
- Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
- The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
- Q:I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
- Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
- Q:hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :)
- What is he using glue on? Buy rolled fiberglass insulation, install it between the rafters and wall studs...paper side in. You can cover the walls and ceiling with drywall, OSB, plywood if you wish. You do realize that insulating your shed isn't going to make it much/any cooler don't you? You will need an air conditioner for that, but the insulation will help keep the AC in.
- Q:were can i buy material to insulate pans and instructions to install it? I have seen many roofs with this done ,but , the lowe,s and home depots don't have .
- I think your problem is in the way you are asking the question. I for one do not know what you mean by a metal pan roof. I know all about steel roofs or corrugated roofs and a lot of other roofs but what is a metal pan?
- Q:does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
- no. attic ventilation can do this
- Q:i live in a tropical country and i need to insulate my roof to block off the heat from the sun...which insulation would best help me? aluminum foil with foam, real foil with foam or PE with foam? pls help...thank u so much!
- Expanded polystyrene (EPS) comes in sheets and is very long lasting and safe to use - no fibers, no itchy skin, no breathing issues....this is also used to keep cold out as well as heat and is durable.
- Q:the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
- Sawdust is a definite possibility. It is highly toxic and an appropriate mask should always be worn when sawdust is present. Sawdust is a proven carcinogen. Depending on the type of insulation you used, it may contain chemicals (e.g. formaldehyde) or particulates (fiberglass) that can be irritating to the throat, lungs and/or nasal sinuses. Bottom line: be sure to wear an appropriate mask in the future. They are available at most hardware and all wookworking stores. Best wishes and good luck.
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FSK Heat Insulation materials
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