color coated roofing sheet

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color coated roofing sheet

1) Quality Standard & Grade: JIS G3302, SGCC /  ASTM  653M  CQ/  EN10142 DX51D+Z

2) Zinc coating : 50g/m2

3) color film thickness:20micro(doubled)

4) Surface Treatment: chromated , non oiled, skin passed

5) Packing: export standard packing,packed with moisture resistant paper and metal

wrapping,securely tied for export,on metal skids) Country of Origin :China



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Q:Best Quality Steel...............!!?
Q:Middle name for Steel?
Steel Rod Tompkins Steel Blaze Tompkins Steel Adam Tompkins
Q:Ideas for Fantasy Culture: Steel Making?
Well, steel is just modified iron, so you're going to have to start with acquiring the iron first. For that, you're most likely going to be using some sort of underground mining somewhere - either they do that themselves, or they purchase the iron elsewhere. Assuming you're not dealing with meteoric iron (which is possible, but pretty uncommon), or iron sands (not likely in a woodland area), then unless you're dealing with a rocky outcropping with iron veins out in the open, I'm pretty sure there needs to be somebody doing some digging. That said, it doesn't need to be a full raping of the land scenario. A couple of minor mines, some small-scale smelting operations, and somebody knowing the secret of making steel, and it could give you small amounts of steel without making an ecological disaster.
Q:steel vs bronze acoustic guitar strings?
You may want to experiment with different alloys to find which sound best on your guitar...but if it's acoustic, you should be using bronze wound strings.
Q:When does steel start to Warp?
Steel will only warp due to temperature under two conditions: 1. It is not heated evenly - in this case, the hotter parts will expand more than the cooler parts. 2. There are internal stresses in the steel (often from welding or cold-working - as an example, an I-beam or C-channel is usually hot worked, but some cold work can happen, so they can sometimes warp if you heat them ). This means that the steel won't warp due to temp if it's not 1 or 2. However, it could soften and fail if it has a load on it. As for softening, it really depends on what steel alloy you're looking at. Some steels (mainly the expensive alloys) don't really change until above 400 C (750 F), but mild steel really starts to weaken around 150-200 C (300-400 F) Rajashekhar has a point when it comes to forging. Steel isn't really soft enough to forge properly until above 1000C (1830 F), but if you're worried about using steel in a higher temp situation (like around a blast furnace or industrial oven), then make sure you choose a steel that has been rated to work at that temp.
Q:question about swords steel?
Peter Gunn Gave a good answer... Jason mentioned Stainless steel. Stainless steel should be avoided at all cost. Stainless steel is responsible for some really nasty injuries. It has a bad habit of shattering. It is a terrible steel for swords.
Q:Steel Tensile Strength?
I don't follow your calculations. It seems to me that the piece you show could be made from .01 steel and still be less than a pound. Also, it is hard to get steel thinner than .015 because anything thinner is not very useful. If you made it out of .015 steel and used a high strength steel, it might be useful. You wouldn't be bashing any skulls, but with some spikes on the end, it could do some damage, and protect against knives or other hand weapons. You also won't get any bullet resistance out of anything that thin. If you want to bash skulls and deflect bullets, you have to get up to at least .10 and several pounds. Any weight on your hands slows down the speed of your punch, but this is compensated for by the increased energy of impact carried by the extra mass. Also, having something hard to protect your hands allows for harder hits and more damage to the opponent. An interesting idea, but it would take some testing to figure out the optimum configuration. One problem I see is that it completely encloses the hand, making it impossible to use the hand for anything else. So you would have to put it on and take it off a lot, and there would be cases where you wouldn't be able to put it on when you needed it. For that reason, I would not wear two at one time. I would make it heavier and wear it on one hand for bashing skulls and deflecting weapons, and keep the other hand free for other things.
Q:What is the best steel to use for making a knife?
O-1 is an excellent steel. If you've never made a knife before find an old file and use it. My first knives weren't that good, it took a little practice to get the geometry right so be prepared to burn some steel. The advantage of a file is it is already hardened, unless you have a torch or forge that will be near imposable for you to do. The most important thing in knife making is the heat treating. The best steel wont perform like it's supposed to. If you decide to use a file grind your blade out, keep the steel cool; do not let it get any color in it (brown, blue, purple) as this destroys the temper. When your finished put the blade in the oven at 400 deg for an hour. It should have a good hardness for a knife then. As for me, I use old car springs(5160), saw blades(L-6) for many of my blades, Good luck.
Q:Environmental concerns for a steel works factory?
Q:Steel mine question help!!!?
The existence of them would be a good start. Steel is produced from iron ore, not mined.

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