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thickness:0.4mm-2mm, width: 600mm-1500mm

surface treatment: oiled/unoiled, dull finish/bright finish

anneal: bright annealed/black annealed

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Q:Explain how you could make plastic sink and steel float?
plastic can be denser than water. Make it a brick and it sinks. Ships float because they are mostly air - surrounded by steel.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:Which one is better to start? Steel or Acrylic tapers?
Steel, and stainless/surgical steel at that. If not, titanium. Especially for new stretching, you don't wnat any metal in there that you may have a reaction to.
Q:What is purpose of providing steel in compression zone in Doubly reinforced beam ?
There are several reasons to add compression steel. Keep in mind, supported steel (meaning it can't buckle) resists compression as well. Compression steel helps reduce long term deflections. Concrete creeps under sustained loads. Steel lessens the compression, meaning less sustained compressive stress to cause creep deflection. It makes members more ductile. Since the steel takes some of the compressive stress, the compression block depth is reduced, increasing the strain in the tension steel at failure, resulting in more ductile behavior (the moment at first yield remains largely the same with compression steel added, but the increase in capacity after yield is significant). Compression steel insures that the tension steel yields before the concrete crushes, meaning it helps change the failure mode to tension controlled. It makes beams easier to construct. With bars in the top and bottom, you have longitudinal reinforcement in all 4 corners of the shear stirrups to keep them in place when pouring the concrete. Also, for continuous members, its often easier to run your negative moment steel the full length of the beam rather than trying to cut it off in the positive moment regions. Serviceability concerns. You're going to end up putting steel in that region anyway to for temperature and shrinkage.
Q:Reloading and shooting steel.?
You can't reload steel cases. I don't really know, but you just can't. If a mild steel case is harder than the chamber and bolt of your firearm, you should have got a better firearm.
Q:how to repair rusted steel concret?
The rust needs to be removed by what ever means works best for your situation.. Often a twisted wire wheel on a 4 1/2 angle grinder works quickly... a hand wire brush may work well for you, or just plain sandpaper and a LOT of elbow grease (hard work) will remove the rust. From there, a coat of primer paint made for steel. Any hardware store in your area would have such a primer, in quart cans or spray cans. Once that is dry (a good 24 hours for most formulations), you can spray or brush paint the beam most any color you wish.. I've had very good luck with acrylic enamel paints for such projects.. IF your steel is badly pitted, you should consider getting it inspected to insure it will still hold up or support what ever it was installed to do. If you want a smooth finish, once the rust removal is done, you can fill in the dips and pock marks with an auto body filler (Bondo is one brand name)... It comes in 2 parts (the main filler and a hardener) that are mixed well and used to fill in the holes and divits with a plastic spreader.. Once hard (in a few minutes with most brands of filler), sanding with sandpaper and a sanding block will smooth out the finish very nicely. From there, the same primer mentioned above and paint will finish up your project... Hope this helps some... Good Luck!
Q:Steel structures....!!?
What information are you looking for specifically? information on steel structures could refer to lots of things. Try the American Institute of Steel Construction, or the American Society of Civil Engineers. Google to find them.
Q:what is the stucture of high carbon steel?
That is kind of a broad question because high carbon steel can cover a broad range and you did not mention the condition. But I will try to keep it simple. If it is in a wrought condition, it would likely be pearlite plus carbides along the grain boundaries., The atomic structure would be body centered cubic. Sometimes high carbon steel is spherodized annealed and that would be ferrite with lots of round carbides. The atomic structure would be body centered cubic. If it is quench and tempered, it would be martensite and would probably have noticeable carbides if the carbon content was high enough. The atomic structure would be body centered tetragonal
Q:I am getting a benchmade mpr (m390 steel) and am unsure if it is a good knife look at the chart below?
From what I read M390 is relatively wear resistant, with very high stain resistance and good toughness. It is quite hard to qualify steel as better than other steel because it depends on many factors. E.g. for a small folder designed for delicate cutting D2 at high hardness would perform better, but if the environment is corrosive, like saltwater then M390 would be better. I'm not so sure about using stainless steels in large chopping style knives, but I've seen M390 used for them as well. Obviously hardness had to be lowered, which reduces edge holding ability, especially at low angles. Overall, it's a good steel, but if it will outperform S30V or D2 or 154Cm depends on heat treatment and blade geometry, knife designed use, etc.
Q:How was Steel Brightblade born when Sturm was killed by Kitiara?
Steel Brightblade

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