City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment

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500000 unit/month

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In order to simplify system maintenance and improve its liability and safety, presents PC series control box for solar pumping system based on years of research and experiments. The control box combines functions of solar pumping inverter and solar combiner box to simplify system wiring and operation as well as lowering costs. For solar pumping system combined with control box, power input is then backed up by city grid if the solar irradiation is not enough. Also, the special design improves system reliability. Optional reactors coupled with Control Box are suitable for scenarios where distance between Control Box and pump is far away.


Technical Features

1. The box contains combiner function with multiple connection ports for PV array and reverse-connection protection;

2. Thunder protection;

3. Fuse specifically designed for solar applications to withstand DC1kv, greatly improve system reliability

4. Solar DC breaker to improve DC withstanding voltage and system reliability;

5. IP54 protection grade, suitable for both indoor and outdoor installation;

6. Optional reactor to satisfy the long distance electricity transmission (200 meters and above);

7. Switch to different power sources (grid/diesel) if solar irradiation is not enough


Product Specifications


Solar Pumping Control Box Product Specifications

Model

Suitable Inverter

Grid Input

Dimension

mm

Weight

kg

PC-L2

PB750L - PB2200L

/

600*650*300

30

PC-L2/A

PB750L - PB2200L

Single Phase 220V ~ 250V

600*800*300

40

PC-H4

PB3700H / PB5500H

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H4/A

PB3700H / PB5500H

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50

PC-H6

PB7500H / PB11KH

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H6/A

PB7500H / PB11KH

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50

PC-H8

PB15KH / PB18KH

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H8/A

PB15KH / PB18KH

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50


       


City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment


City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment




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Q:need a new water pump?
It is very easy and straightforward. The hardest part is the fan clutch unless you have the proper tools. You have that part covered. DO NOT USE ANY SILICONE SEALER!!!!! Be sure all traces of old gasket are removed and install the new gasket dry. Use an anaerobic sealer on the wet bolts. Those are the ones that are through drilled into the water passages. Clean off the threads then use a light coat of sealer. I use either Permatex (brown stuff in the tube) or pipe joint dope. Now is also a great time to flush the system, replace thermostat, and drive belt(s).
Q:USB controlled water pump?
Well I am going to tell you the best site that I have found about USB I/O. Here we can get USB Lab digital Input and Output data acquisition interfaces series are available in many different configurations. They support a wide variety of industrial automation I/O control, test and measurement applications by USB. For more details visit the following link and enjoy ...
Q:Is it possible for a water pump in a car to leak for awhile ( days; weeks???) or does?
Water pumps go when the seal around the bearing wears out. The leak starts out slow, but once it starts, there is nothing that can be done for it other than to replace it. The leak does start out slow, and get faster, but it can go from slow to fast in just a few days. Like you notice your car over-heats and needs water, and then a couple days later it needs more, and then you gotta fill it every day, and then like every hour, and then like every five minutes. Once it starts to leak, the water will leak a little slower if the engine is running and the radiator cap is loose, so that it cannot build pressure. But that trick is only good for getting you home, and then to the shop the next day. However, with the radiator cap loose, the water will leak faster if the engine is off. My wife's last car was ruined by severely over-heating, so it is not something you want to mess with. If your car severely over-heats, you will AT LEAST blow the head-gasket. So get it fixed as soon as possible, and in the meantime, carry jugs of water with you.
Q:Domestic pump does not use water, or turn, I do not know why?
The motor should be kept working, may be the motor switch problem, idling motor pump long time will certainly be bad, ha ha, the solution is to find a water pump maintenance master to work safety first!
Q:i have a 2000 vw bug and i need help in changing the thermostat or the water pump?
The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.
Q:how to change a water pump?
Changing a water pump is nothing special, just common sense. Drain the coolant and take apart whatever you need to get access to it. The cooling system is sealed off from everything else (like the oil system or example) so there shouldn't be any nasty surprises. Make sure you get a new set of any seals and gaskets with the new pump. However you may have to take off the timing belt to get at the pump, and you need the proper instructions for replacing that. Usually it is not recommended to re-use the old belt. You might be able to save a bit of money by not replacing any tensioner pulleys etc that should be changed when the belt is changed, depending how old they are. If you can afford the extra time off the road, don't buy replacement parts till you have looked at the condition of the old ones. Unless it is actually leaking water, pumps can last a long time making horrible noises (especailly noises at engine idling speeds), so you might consider leaving the pump till the next timing belt change anyway.
Q:water pump leaking antifreeze?
So what is your question? If you know the problem, either replace it yourself (which I would NOT recommend), or take it to a mechanic, to have it replaced. On this particular vehicle, it's a major undertaking, since the water pump is driven by the timing chain, if I recall correctly. To access it requires removing the engine mount, and front timing chain cover. Installation requires having the engine re-timed. Although I'm not familiar with GM products, as a rule of thumb, engines that use a timing chain, are usually an INTERFERENCE engine (which means piston/valve damage WILL result, if mistimed). The labour time guides lists 8 hours for this repair on this particular vehicle, with this particular engine. That should tell something, since water pumps are usually listed for about 2 to 3 hours labour on most vehicles. Hope this helps.
Q:Can a water pump go out after hitting a deer?
It might If the water pump has lots of miles anything might make it go bad , Any accident will cause your car to act funny because it has not been disturbed
Q:Can you diagnose my well water pump problem?
sounds like a vacum valve problem you need a plumber or a pump person does not sound like a good job for a dyi.
Q:My 1998 GMC Yukon is leaking water out of the tail pipe.?
Possible head gasket or warped head. The water is getting out to the water jacket and into the top of the piston. Some water coming out of the exhuast is normal. It would not be a water pump.

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