• Aluminum foil double bubble thermal insulation material System 1
  • Aluminum foil double bubble thermal insulation material System 2
Aluminum foil double bubble thermal insulation material

Aluminum foil double bubble thermal insulation material

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
6000 m²/month

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This is a new environmentally-friendly heat insulation material, which can add a layer of PE woven cloth on the basis of the original aluminum foil and polyethyene, which greatly enhances tensile strength and tearing-resistance strength without changing its original characterstics.

Material structure AL/bubble/AL

Bubble diameter and height 2.5mm*10mm, 4mm*10mm, 7mm*20mm
Size/roll Normal size: 1.2m*40m. Max width is 1.58m, length can be customized

concrete building roof thermal insulation


"waterproof barn roofing aluminium foil heat insulation material Characteristics:
1. No odor and toxicity, environmentally- friendly;
2. Light, soft, dust free, fire retardant, easy to install;
3. Heat reflection, heat insulation, sound insulation, anti-radiation, anti-vibration, and shielding;
4. Moisture barrier, sun-proof, waterproof, good sealing property, heat preservation, energy saving^
5. Summer: Moisture barrier, sun-proof, heat insulation, saving energy consumed by cool air conditioning;
6. Winter: Heat preservation, central heating saving, and remarkable energy-saving effect.
"
Application:
1. Used in Roof insulation
2. Used in Attic Insulation
3. Used in Stud Walls Insulation
4. Used in Crawl Spaces Insulation
5. Used in Under Concrete Barrier&Insulation
6. Used in HVAC Duct Insulation
7. Used in Metal Building Insulation
8. Used in Post Frame Building insulation
9. Used in Water Heater Insulation Blankets or Jackets.
10. Used in Radiant Floor Insulation
11. Used in Garage Door Insulation
12. Used in Ultra/Stanard Under Concrete Barrier
13. Used in Duct Wrap Insulation

Benefits:
Effective in extrme temperatures both hot and cold
Strong but clean, light weight and flexible
Easy Installation
Safe to handle with no special clothing or breathing Equipment
Cuts and installs easier than fiberglass
Reflects 97% of Radiant Heat
Easily stapled, nailed or glued into place
Waterproof, non-absorbent surface, recycled, friend environment.

Other material structure as follows,

AL/Bubble

AL/Bubble/AL

AL/bubble bubble/AL

AL/woven cloth/bubble/AL

AL/EPE


AL/EPE /AL


AL/woven cloth/EPE/AL

AL/woven cloth/EPE/woven cloth/AL


VMPET/XPE/VMPET


AL/woven cloth/AL or AL/woven cloth

AL/woven cloth/EPE/AL or AL/woven cloth/EPE


AL/woven cloth/XPE/AL or AL/woven cloth/XPE


AL/Non-woven cloth/AL or AL/non-woven cloth/AL


Q:do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?
Some mobiles have a vented attic and some don't. If your attic is vented, the foam on the roof won't help insulate inside the house. I've blown insulation into a mobile home attic before (vented attic), but some mobiles one can't (not vented attic). There are different variations of attic venting, dictating if you can blow in or not. I would add insulation anyway, if you can, mobiles usually skimp on attic insulation, even if they are "certified".
Q:Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.
First, "green" building is not technically defined as far as the construction industry is concerned. i.e. anyone can call their products "green" until the parameters are set up to strickly define what is "green" and what is not. To date, it's been more of a marketing strategy than anything. (Unless this has changed in recent months) I'm glad to hear New Orleans is taking the right path in rebuilding the place! Hope to get back down there soon.
Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
Is the attic floor completely uninsulated now? You need a single layer of vapor barrier between the living space and the attic space. This is often done with faced insulation rolls. A vapor barrier between the living space ceiling and your new insulation may be enough all by itself to prevent the condensation from forming. If there's existing insulation, you'll have to pull some up to check for a vapor barrier. If there's already a vapor barrier, you can add unfaced insulation. Never put in two vapor barriers with insulation between them.
Q:we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,
i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.
Q:What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?
Blown in. It's better and also cheaper to have the insulation blown in. It's better because the insulation will go around wires, ductwork, and pipes much easier. It can get into nooks and crannys easier. It's much quicker also.
Q:the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
POROSIL A specially graded Light Weight Insulating Aggregate for loose fill insulation in Cavity Wall and over Suspended/False Ceiling. # 100% inorganic and Asbestos free. It will not rot, emit odours or attract vermin. # Light in weight and easy to handle. # POROSIL is the only insulating material which is Non-toxic and non-flammable at the time of fire. # Reduces unwanted heat flow making living comfortable. # Reduces the Air Conditioning Power Consumption upto 20 to 30%
Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
by raising the pitch the attic will stay in the cooler in the summer. also the steeper the roof the less wear you will have on certain types of roofing. wood, metal , and tile like steep roofs. mineral roofs dont, since the grainuals on the tar rub off easily during rains and snow will stick to the mineral surface and rip off the grainuals on the steeper roofs. a good pitch is a 6 and 12 pitch. this works well with all roofs and gives good cooling plus you can still stand on it to door any work
Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
welcome to the wonderful world of cheap, temporary roofing. you've just described a metal roof perfectly. bob, tell em what he's won! a lifetime supply of more bad decisions! also, the ugliest roof in town! but best of all, everyone who drives by his home will know he's a bandwagon kind of guy, he doesn't educate himself and do what's wise, he does what everyone else is doing! can't wait till that crowd finds that cliff they've been lookin for!!!
Q:We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
they sell insulation at the home improvement stores. if you have tried that type then you will need to call a proffessional to insulate with fiberglass and wrap with tin protective cover. depends how cold it gets you may have to use heat tape also.
Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?
Maybe, you do need insulation above the ceilings (it will be between the ceiling joists/framing that also serve as the attic floor joists/framing. 1. If you have a finished attic (for a living area of some sort) then yes there should be insulation with a vapor barrier under the roof &/or between the roof framing. This will help keep heating/cooling costs down and prevent condensation from forming under the roof and doing lots of water damage over time. 2. If the attic is partially finished but used for storage only & there is attic ventilation in use also then no you don't need insulation under your roof. 3. If your attic is partially finished or completely finished but used for storage only and there is no attic ventilation then yes you should have insulation with a vapor barrier also under the roof. You don't have to have it since it's used for storage only but if you start to see condensation &/or wet areas on the wood or framing under the roof then you will need insulation with a vapor barrier installed. If for any reason insulation is installed under the roof it must be installed correctly and have in place a proper method of ventilation directly under the roof itself. All roof systems in the attic areas must have proper ventilation to prevent any possibility of condensation forming under &/or in the wood roof framing & sheathing materials that will rot the wood over time.

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