wafer type butterfly check valve

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Specifications

Wafer Type Butterfly Check Valve

PN10/16/25
DN80~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Shaft bush: gunmetal

Q:I am looking at buying a 2001 Pontiac Bonneville and the guy said the car's check engine light says it had a problem with the EGR valve and so he bipassed it somehow. He said a EGR valve isn't needed. Is this valve very important or needed? What does it do? Thanks: I agree with Thumpin8....98%...... Main problem is if you run Unhooked or bypassed and Running rich will cause more problems.... Will burn out your Oxygen sensor next Then fault codes will double up in your ECM PCU programs Then running rich, injectors might over presure at the wrong time. That when your fuel mileage get even worse.... Good Luck.... Pass on the car.... If he says the EGR is out most likely has 3 running problems by now Stating EGR is not needed....

Q:When using seafoam through the PCV valve. Which side contains the vacuum? From the crank case of intake manifold? The brake booster line is very difficult to access and on their site it says I can apply seafoam through the pcv valve.: Remove the PCV valve from the rocker arm cover remove the hose off the PCV valve shake the valve, is it springy? if yes it is OK put it back on. If not spray the top and bottom holes and shake it back and forth till you can feel it becoming springy Best world I can think of sort of feels like a ball bouncing inside when it's free afterwords spray it till it's clean then dry it and install it bak into position. The hose is the vacuum side but you DO NOT want to get the sea foam into the booster diaphragm or it will damage it, it's made of rubber and ea form will harm it as will any oil or lubricants that gets on it. The PCV valve is a controlled vacuum leak and it pulls engine gas out and recreates it to burn again and it supplies boost to the brake system as well. Hope this helps.

Q:After shutting off the hot and cold water lines to my washer to remove the unit from my laundry room i noticed a small leak coming from the hot water valve as if the valve is not completely closing. The valves themselves should be roughly 10 years old and were extremely tight when attempting to close them, my question is how big of a job is this to replace the water valve? Is it as simple as turning off the main water to the house and replacing the valve or are these typically soldered on? Currently i just ran the hose for the hot water to the drain line to prevent water from leaking onto the floor so is this something that is a fairly non issue once i hook the lines back up to the washer and turn them back on? Or is this something i should get addressed asap?: Of course, the best solution is to replace the valve. Valves are either soldered on or attached to the pipe with compression fittings. If the pipe is copper and you see a silver band of metal between the pipe and the valve, that's probably solder. In this case, it would be best to let a plumber replace the valve. Otherwise, if your valve is attached with a compression fitting, you can get a new valve at your local home improvement store in the plumbing section. I recommend getting a 1/4 turn, steel ball valve. These are very simple and reliable valves. When you remove the old valve, be sure to also remove the compression washer and shoulder nut as well. You'll want to use the new ones that come with your valve. I also recommend using Teflon tape to wrap the threads of your new valve, at least two times in the direction of nut tightening. This will reduce the chance of leakage through the threads. Tighten the compression washer between the valve and the shoulder nut snugly. Make sure the valve is off. Turn the water on and check for leaks. If you see periodic drips, tighten the shoulder nut until the dripping stops. The other cheap and dirty alternative is to get a cap for your existing valve. These are also available in the plumbing section of your home improvement store. They run about $2-3, I believe, and are threaded onto the faucet where your hose attaches. That will keep your leaking valve from dripping all over the place.

Q:I know i have to buy a recirculating valve but should i drop 250 on the perrin or will any brand do? how important is a high quality BOV?: To correct alot of false answers here: DO NOT GET A BLOW OFF VALVE. A Recirculating valve is called a Bypass Valve. All Blow Off Valves go to the atmosphere. The only reason to get a new Bypass Valve is if you are running a bigger turbo and the stock one starts to leak. Im running 20psi on my stock turbo and the stock bypass valve holds fine.

Q:Hi, I have Orbit valve for a section of my yard. The pressure is really low when I turn it on with my remote. When I turn it on manually at the valve, the water pressure is much higher.: Its possible the valve stem is corroded with stuff not letting it actuate properly open. Turn water off and unscrew the valve then actuate it electrically while watching for a full stroke. Make sure flow control is all the way open when inspecting valves stroke. Remember where you had it set when done or readjust. Also check the solenoid for corrosion and clean linkages. I would clean and coat with petroleum jelly. My guess is valve seat is gummed up so lube the stem and work it manually till it slides open and closed easy then test with the solenoid. Good luck!

Q:I have tried to adjust valves of Suzuki Intruder VS400 but they still tapping..so how to adjust them in the right way?: if okorder and download the free bee manual for your bike.

Q:I am 16, and i have a leaky heart valve. What makes it worse so i can try to prevent from it getting worse? please help.: It would be very helpful to know which valve is involved. At your age a bicuspid aortic valve would be the most common congenital heart lesion. Regurgitation tends to increase over time no matter what is done. There is nothing that you will be able to do to prevent this from getting worse if that is the nature of the valvular abnormality. If you provide me with additional information I may be able to offer a more thorough and thoughtful response. I wish you the very best of health and in all things may God bless. JR

Q:i have seen the wrting M/T on some valve covers and was wondering what that meant: It stands for the manufacturer; Mickey Thompson

Q:Is there a difference between the atrioventricular valves in the right side versus the left side of the heart?Is there a different between the pulmonary valves?: Yep - the right atrioventricular valve, also called the tricuspid, has three cusps. On the other hand, the left AV valve, also known as the mitral valve or bicuspid, has two cusps. The bicuspid can withstand more pressure than the tricuspid.

Q:Ok guys I have a 70 4 bolt main 350 40 over. I have a lunati 292 cam 230 at 50 degrees. 480 lift. The kit says 1.5 rocker ratio. No valve adjustments needed. I just boight edelbrock aluminum heads summit number 5089 64 cc with 185 intake runner . And comp cam roller tip rockers. That say 1.52 ratio. All my decks on the engine and heads are stock not shaven. I have speed pro pistons with .125 dome. Im using standard felpro gaskets. Ok my question is will standard lenght pushrods work for this build. They are 7.794 length. And will my piston head clearance be ok cause of my domed pistons. and do I need to find rockers that just say 1.5 ratio to make this work or are 1.52 the same. Thanks: Your fine with the roller tip 1.52's

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