wafer type butterfly check valve

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Specifications

Wafer Type Butterfly Check Valve


PN10/16/25
DN80~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

                                              EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Shaft bush: gunmetal

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Q:briggs and stranton 14.5 engine and how to adjust the valves?
Roll the engine over until the valve is completely closed. You can do this by watching the valve close, then turn the engine over until it just strats to raise. Now turn it back half way. Now losen the rocker arm and place a .003mm to .005mm filler gage between the push rod and the rocker. Tighten the rocker arm nut down so that the filler gage pulls out with a light drag. Do this with the other rocker and you are good to go.
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EGR valve got sooty,and rusty and dirty and then they dont work right. They either dont open or they get stuck open and cause the car to run lousey. If the valve has been i the car since the 80's it is probably about time to either clean it or change it. do you have haynes or chilton manual for the car? they explain alot.
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just rebuild it since you have it a part 87 im sure that among other things was the problem im sure it was both
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This okorder.com/
Q:About the shut off valve?
You have the main water line outside that feeds everyone. Look for a man hole cover and remove it. You should see the turn off valve there. There may be a pipe unit that the county removed so the water could not be turned back on. Call the country and ask for the water to be turned back on. If you are talking about the line after it goes onto your property then it's just a large pipe that comes into your home somewhere. They normally put a on/off valve at that point that allows you to shut the water off inside the home. If the pipe inside the house is detached from that valve then someone most likely cut it and took out a section. You would have to turn the water out at the manhole so you can open that valve and drain the water out of it. Then using a torch/solder/pipe sleeves, new pipe etc solder the replacement piece in place. Remember water in a pipe will not allow the pipe to reach soldering temp without creating steam, which can burn you. Hope that helps....
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There is a small nut around the valve handle on the valve tighten this one
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I am assuming that you are referring to a small block chevy or similar engine. Valve seats occasionally crack where the two exhaust valves sit side-by-side. This is the only part where the two exhaust valves are next to each other; the others are separated. This causes high heat in this area and can fatigue and crack. You will need to replace valve seats on the heads which involves boring out the existing seats and installing new ones. You will then need to have new valve angles ground in so that the valves seal properly. While you are doing this I recommend putting in new valve guides, or in a worst case scenario bronze liners (this prevents the start up smoke). To do a set of heads properly you are probably in the neighborhood of $1500 plus and that does not include the removal and reinstallation. If you can I'd recommend a set of World Products SR Torquer heads, you will save money and increase performance. There are also a number of other good aftermarket cylinder heads out there, so the only limit is how much you want to spend. Good luck.
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probably the gasket slipped or the bolts need to be tighten more but just snug them down.
Q:Water shut off valve?
Every house should have a water meter and a shut off point close by. This will isolate ALL water cold and hot water included. With shut off valves, you can usually just take the guts out and replace them with the guts from a new one. Take a couple close up pics of your shut off valve and show them to a plumbing assistant at any DIY store such as Home Depot. They can find you the right product. In order to replace the guts, all you need is a larger crescent wrench and a set of channel lock pliers. I would recommend having a small bucket handy to catch any loose water. Prior to taking anything apart once youve shut the water off, I would run the cold water in a basement sink or main floor sink to reduce the pressure and water quantity.

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