Pneumatic Safety Valve with API 6A Standard

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1. Structure of Pneumatic Safety Valve Description


The Pneumatic safety valve is mainly used on the wellhead X-mas tree of ocean, offshore platform or onshore, whose function is when fire hazard or abnormal high or low pressure happened, it can close the safety valves automatically according to set procedure to ensure the wellhead safety.


2. Main Features of Pneumatic Safety Valve


1) API Standard

2) High quality and fast delivery

3) Best price and service


3. Pneumatic Safety Valve Images


Pneumatic Safety Valve with API 6A Standard

Pneumatic Safety Valve with API 6A Standard

Pneumatic Safety Valve with API 6A Standard


4. Pneumatic Safety Valve Specification


Nominal Diameter2-1/16"4-1/16"
Nominal Pressure 2,000Psi10,000Psi
Material classAAHH
PSL classPSL14
PR classPR 2
MediumPetroleum oil, natural gas, water, mud
End connectionAPI standard connection


5. FAQ of Pneumatic Safety Valve


We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely:


①How about your company?

One of the leading manufacturers and suppliers specializing in values products in China, can supply series of values to around the world.


②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put 


an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.


③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible.


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Q:Can water inlet valves for washers be repaired or rebuilt?
You probably can not find a rebuilt valve or get the parts to rebuild one. If needed, it will probably need to be completely replaced. There is a good chance you do not have a valve issue. Turn the water valve off and remove the cold water line at the back of the washer. Inside the hose or on the washer itself, there should be a metal screen in the line that somewhat filters the valve and protects it from getting clogged with sediment. Remove the screen and clean or replace it. If the screen wire is not at the washer end try the valve end of the cold water line. While your there you may want to clean the hot water side also. If you are unable to clean the screen, new ones are available for minimal money at hardware stores. Yes the screen wire is necessary, by removing the line additional sediment may very well go into the valve when you turn on the water and cause a valve problem if you don't have one now.
Q:what happen when solenoid valve is activated?
If the pressure in any one zone is different than the other zones it could be one of two reasons; either the pressure is high (usually due to one or more sprinkler heads not poping up), or its low (usually due to a leak in the pipes). Something that could cause low pressure in all the zones are an obstruction in the water line above the valves (unlikely), or a hole in the line above the valve (the water would be filling the valve box and causing damage to the lawn wherever it is located), or leaks in all the lines (again would be easy to identify from the excess water in the ground at the source of the leak). Lastly the valve itself could potentially be faulty. The solenoid inside the valve holds the valve open when electricity is applied across it. If the wires to it are damaged; if the solenoid is bad; or if the valve has any rust or dirt inside that could cause a lower than normal amount of water flow.
Q:How can I fix a leaking faucet shutoff valve?
Any repair is going to require shutting off the water. Buy a matching shutoff and replace the guts or in the case of a compression fit shutoff replace the whole thing other than the ferrel and nut.
Q:how to calibrate a pneumatic control valve?
Artspremo okorder.com )
Q:Issue with Weil McLain water heater - Zone Valve?
Generally, there are those who swear by and those who swear at Weil-Mclain. I am amongst the former - if installed properly and with the correct peripheral equipment. Otherwise, they can be quite touchy and very fussy. The simplest solution I can suggest is that you purchase a WM Zone Valve Control - linked below. It will be fully compatible with the rest of your system. Not so expensive and very effective.
Q:natural gas furnace valve not opening?
I don't know if this will help without seeing your furnace but this is similar to what happened when I light ours in the fall.Where the pilot light is if you have one there is a wire sensor and that gets dirty sometimes and needs cleaned at the tip by the pilot,on ours it connects to the gas valve and signals it to open.Good luck to you hope this helps,it also could be a bad valve.
Q:new EGR valve?
i think your right. I'm not sure but a think your EGR valve is vacuum operated. If so, there is a vacuum solenoid to control the vacuum to the egr valve. There is also intake vacuum to this solenoid. Could be no vacuum to solenoid or a bad solenoid or wires controlling the solenoid. But also could be a completly different problem other than egr. You need to go back to the shop that put on the egr valve and find out why the egr valve didnt fix your problem. And either have them fix it right or get your money back.
Q:valve mismatch?
Wherever you are get out. You are about to be ripped off. This will probably be too late. I gather the code you gave is the trouble code, as they are called, from the cars obd. The code 300 is random / multiple cylinder misfire. The code 302 is cylinder # 2 misfire The code 420 is catalytic system below threshold bank # 1 Deciphered this means you have a spark plug misfiring in cylinder #2, bank # 1. The misfire is causing a rich gas mixture in the exhaust system that is detected by the sensor and therefore it says you have a catalytic converter problem. I would suggest you replace your spark plugs, if they have a lot of miles on them. Are they the original plugs ? I f so they are probably due. Get out of there and go find an honest shop that will not rip you off. Now that you know the problem they can;t cheat. I don't know what all that other valve business was about but all you have is a misfiring spark plug.
Q:Question about valve cover gasket?
Valve cover gaskets aren't really affected by miles. They either don't leak or they do. I'd just snug it up a bit. If it still leaks you can put some sealant on the gasket, but only if you can lift it off without wrecking it since you'd have to seal it on both sides. Don't tighten it too much or you will make the leaks worse.
Q:Multi Valve advantages?
Think of an engine as an air pump - obviously, we want the least amount of restriction for the incoming air and also the least amount for exhausting the compressed air. The ideal situation would be to remove the head during the intake stroke and put it back on during the compression stroke, but, obviously, this isn't possible. On a naturally aspirated engine, the intake is the most critical because the air is moved only by a relatively small difference in pressures. The exhaust stroke, on the other hand, is aided greatly by the super heated temperature and rapid expansion of the gasses. Two intake and one exhaust valve seems to be the most practical and efficient solution - adding more vales means smaller valves and an increase in the overall complexity. I seriously doubt that Maserati ever abandoned ANY automotive idea due to cost restraints. It's far more likely that adding more valves than three or four simply resulted in diminishing returns. Sometimes the allure of a new buzz phrase is nothing more than a marketing ploy - a 16 valve, DOHC, four cylinder engine, for example, is a pretty impressive resume for an engine, regardless of whether it actually is the optimum performance set up or not.

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