Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 with API Standard

Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 with API Standard System 1

Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 with API Standard

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 200 pc

Supply Capability:: 5000 pc/month

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1. Structure of Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 Description

Size: O.D: 2-3/8"~4-1/2"

Grade: J55

Thread: NU, EU

Standard: API 5CT

2. Main Features of Tubing Coupling of Grade J55

1) Advanced test for quality

2) MTC, COC provided

3) Supervision is welcome

3. Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 Images

Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 with API Standard

4. Tubing Coupling of Grade J55 Specification

API Tubing Coupling
Descriptions and size		Type of Therad	O.D*L (mm)	Weight (kg)
Tubing Coupling	1.050	NUE	33.35*80.96	0.23
	1.050	EUE	42.16*82.55	0.38
	1.315	NUE	42.16*82.55	0.38
	1.315	EUE	48.26*88.90	0.57
	1.660	NUE	52.17*88.90	0.59
	1.660	EUE	58.88*95.25	0.68
	1.900	NUE	55.88*95.25	0.56
	1.900	EUE	63.50*98.42	0.84
	2-3/8"	NUE	73.02*107.95	1.28
	2-3/8"	EUE	77.80*132.82	1.55
	2-7/8"	NUE	88.90*130.18	2.34
	2-7/8"	EUE	93.17*133.35	2.40
	3-1/2"	NUE	107.95*142.88	3.71
	3-1/2"	EUE	114.30*146.05	4.10
	4"	NUE	120.65*146.05	4.35
	4"	EUE	127.00*152.40	4.82
	4-1/2"	NUE	132.08*155.58	4.89
	4-1/2"	EUE	141.30*158.75	6.05

5. FAQ of Tubing Coupling of Grade J55

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

①How about your company？

One of the leading manufacturers and suppliers specializing in steel pipe products in China, mainly offering four series steel pipes including welded steel pipe (ERW, SSAW, LSAW and square and rectangle pipe), seamless steel pipe, hot dipped galvanized steel pipe and steel pipe with 3 layer polythene coating. We can provide customers different specification standards e.g. ASTM A53, ASTM A106, BS1387, API 5L, API 5CT, ISO3183 and etc. Our scope of supplying covers from 1/2" to 48" for the outside diameter of welded pipes, and 1/8" to 20" for the seamless pipes.

Other than steel pipes we are also capable of supplying a wide variety of pipeline accessories, steel pipe fittings; valves etc. consists of our one-stop sales. The integrated sales & service ensures customers with various demands an easier access for purchasing management.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products？

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible.

Q:How do you disconnect the PVC pipe joint that has been glued?: A sticky PVC pipe joint is not normally open. Only cut off and re connect.Do you know?

Q:A couple of nights ago, the unit started without notice and wouldn't stop until I got the battery out and put it back in.There was no cooking going on at the time.: Well you thought you were ready for adulthood did you? Now you face the consequences..be thankful its just this and not pregnancy! Probably should tell your Mom and hopefully she puts you on birth control.. since once you start you don't stop! and pregnancy is not fun when your 16.

Q:I'm about to get my first bike (i'm almost 16) and i have a good 1 picked out, but im not sure what safety stuff i need. technically, im getting a moped (150 cc) and i don't know what else to get. i no i need a helmet and gloves, but what else? ive got like a really pretty one picked out, but lost for the rest.: since , had all sorts of styles and sizes of stems

Q:Obviously a bike, but what else will i need so far i can include the following into my budget:-insurance-helmet-gloveswhat other safety equipment will there be? ive seen full body suits, and im assuming there is a specific boot to wear im just wondering as a starting motorcycler what should i be looking to spend in total for the bike insurance and the safety equipment.: once it has been contaminated with the water from the leak it can be very frustrating. you must remove the water from the line before you try to resolder. clean male and female very good,steel wool or sandpaper,reflux and resolder. hope some plumber can be of more help,

Q:what is the lifespan of nitrile rubber?: Sounds like you have water in the lines while your soldering .. If the pipe is spitting / bubble the joint you need to drain the system before soldering . If it is a place that's has access to it you can solder union in . DO NOT USE IF ITS IN THE GROUND OR BEHIND A WALL . IF the water wont stop try shoving bread in the pipe . Anyway all the above post are also great ideas good luck

Q:I had my car sitting in the driveway for 3 months, the battery had died completely; but when I tried to start it all I heard was clicking sounds. When I had the engine replaced the mechanic said I had to pay extra to buy a tranny because the engine locked up? Im wondering how when it worked fine last time I drove it..Can someone please explain to me what it means when a engine locks up.? What causes it .? What happens to the engine?: Your application is way too sophisticated for this forum to address. Since you clearly have no clue how to do this and because it is several days of work to define, clarify, troubleshoot, and implement, you need to hire someone trained in this specialty. Network engineering at this level is not free.

Q:All I know you need to put the phone by the door I don't know the rest: EDIT: There are systems that can install an epoxy liner in an existing sewer lateral. One of many is linked below. They will come into your house with a camera system and run it down the main sewer and find out where the break(s) occur. From there they will install an inflatable pipe within the system that will extrude the new epoxy liner. It may take a few hours, and it will cost about 40% of what a new pipe would cost, but there is little or no digging, and certainly nothing under your house. Ask around in your ara or search No Dig Sewer Repair or similar words. END EDIT. Clay sewer pipe of that vintage used mostly a mortar mix for the sealant - and some very few used rubber gaskets in addition to the mortar. Between settling and normal aging, the joints tend to move a little. And then between heating and cooling, hot water from a bath followed by cold water from a toilet flush, even more stress is put on the joints. Do this for 30 - 40 years and the joints get loose. An air-blaster system will blow the mortar right out of the joints, possibly split the pipes themselves and possibly even move the pipes themselves. It is absolutely the worst possible thing to do with a vitreous-pipe system. Keep in mind that the pipe itself tends to be pretty impervious to wear and tear - it is usually joint failure, movement and roots (causing joint failure and movement) that causes problems. Good luck with it. When/if you have to replace the pipes, consider Schedule 80 PVC if permitted by code. It is much stronger than Schedule 40, and should last at least 100 years, probably much more, if installed correctly. Use 304-stainless no-hub mechanical fittings rated for underground use, *NOT* solvent fittings. Or go straight to ductile iron and similar fittings.

Q:if a room is burning and there are two exits, a window near u and a far door, and u r getting low on air, and u only have a blanket and 1 litre of water,and the door is about 90 sec far running what would u do????: Look at brass fittings, they make ball valves as small as 1/4

Q:Now that NBC fired that liar Brian Williams, should FOX follow suit and fire its entire lying broadcast staff?: I have a suggestion but first let me shoot down some of the other idea's with the fact that in cold weather you ALWAYS need access to pipes and fittings. Heat tape-no, the electrical in heat tape goes bad and you will have no easy way to repair. Crawlspace- even if heated, you said there will be no access Ceiling running down- no, there is no heat in the ceiling and the lines would need to be exposed in the bathroom. Cold air return-maybe but again, no access I'm assuming this schoolhouse has a basement, most do, and your best option would be to build a secondary partition wall on the same wall as the addition to hide the plumbing and run it into from the basement. Essentially just poking through the now exterior wall and the new addition wall from inside the new fake exterior wall . It sounds like you need a H C for the washer, a H C for a vanity sink and a C for the toilet? Obviously the best thing would be to make as few penetrations as possible so use 3/4 copper for the sink, run flex hose or tubing for toilet and run two exposed lines from the vanity THROUGH(vanity) the side onto the wall(exposed) for the washer. I'm kind of guessing here as I'm not able to see the layout. If you're willing to make 4 penetrationsgo for it. The toilet only needs to be hose or tubing, make sure you put a separate valve in for it. The drains shouldn't matter, they are drains. As long as the traps are in a warm area and the lines are pitched well. Old houses suck. ADDITION existing exterior wall Plumbing ( H 0 C 0 H 0 C 0 ) from basement __newwall_____________________________

Q:Surely there is a lot of infrared light (black body and other) around at all times, how does the sensor differentiate this ambient light from the remote signal? Also, how is it that I don't need to point my remote directly at the sensor, I can have the remote in a bookshelf pointed away from the sensor and the remote still works. Are most materials highly reflective at these wavelengths?: The larger the pipe the lower the losses. Thus it becomes an economic decision. The pipe and fittings will need to withstand significant pressure (well over 400 psi) with a 340 m head. Since your flow rate will be around 140 GPM I would suggest calculating the loss in a 3 inch pipe then determine if the extra cost of larger pipe offsets the added power required. Remember, the 37 hp assumes no losses (very large pipe).

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