• Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series System 1
  • Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series System 2
  • Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series System 3
Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series

Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
300 unit/month

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Structure of Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series

XA type pumps are single-stage and single-suction centrifugal pumps. This type mainly consists of casing, pump cover, impeller, shaft, shaft sleeve, and suspended frame, etc. the extending end of shaft is supported by two rolling bearings, the bearing lubricant is mechanical oil or grease. The seal is gland packing or mechanical seal. Pump is driven directly by motor through flexible coupling or it can be driven by diesel engine.

Application of Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series

XA type pumps used in transporting clean water or liquids whose physical and chemical characteristics are similar to water. It is applicable in factories, mines, city water supplies, drainage, air-conditioning, fire-fighting and agricultural irrigation.

Operation and Specifications of Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series

Product Standard: EN733

Scope of performance:    
Max. capacity(Q):   730L/S

Max. head (H):          150m

Inlet and outlet flange standard and rating:     EN1092.2 (GB/T17241.6-1998)

Model Meaning of Single Stage End Suction Centrifugal Pump XA Series


XA  32/13 (Blank/A/B)

XA:
Single stage single suction centrifugal pump;
32:Pump outlet(mm);
13:Nominal impeller diameter(cm);
 (Blank/A/B):
Blank:No cutting no mark;

A: impeller first cutting;

B: impeller second cutting

 

Q:Intelligent pump controller, water is full water transfer automatically shows the next pool of water shortage, what is the matter?
The sensor is out of order or the line is out of contact.
Q:Why such a difference in price. Is the GM worth 4 times the NAPA brand. Both are new for a 2003 Buick ParkAve Ultra with 95k miles. 1st time we're replacing the water pump.
It depends on which pump you are getting from napa the reman pump or the new pump also that is not the only thing that you will need! you will also need the plastic elbows that go from the water pump to the alternator bracket (as soon as they are touched they will break into a million pieces) there are 2 elbows in the Dorman/help bubble pack both will be needed (they aren't very expensive though) And yes the 4 hours is fine (my database calls for almost 5 hours (4.8) that's because it's an Ultra (supercharger is an interference when accessing the pump) So continue with what you are doing just be sure to get the NEW pump from NAPA
Q:I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
Well yes it wiould , powerful pumps need more electric power so check that the generator can supply the power needed by the pump
Q:The water pump is bat on the car I have. I have the part but I need to know if I should have someone install it for me or could I do it myslef. I heard it the timing may be messed up after the pump is in
if you have never did it before ,yes its a pretty hard job to do,and there's more involved than just replacing the pump on it,one thing that might help you is to get a repair manual on the car ,they are very helpful and give tips on how to do it right and not have to do it over again,for someone who has never done this before though and doesn't have the right tools its a pretty hard job,good luck.
Q:I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
reset the ecu, by disconnecting the battery cables off the battery for 30 mins and then reconnect them and see what happens
Q:Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking. it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.) What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? how can i fix it? what happens if i dont? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!
Water Pump Housing
Q:Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?
ok so the termostat replace no leaks and its overheating check the fan hub is it ok if yes then replace the radiator i dont think your head gaskets are blown because water came up when temp was hot an you reved up the engine however if water had came out when water was cold or warm the i say the head gaskets were blown hope this helps
Q:Why does the water pump leak?
Two reasons.One is that the gap between the bearings becomes larger. Damage the water seal. One is the aging of water seal.
Q:mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!
ok well the water pump is a pretty easy fix if you pop the hood and look to the left side of the engine you will see your serpintine belt the water pump is the pully on top closest to the front of the car and that is prob like an hour to an hour and a half repair. now your thermostat is on the opposite side of the engine buried under your throttle body and is labor intensive possibly up to 3 hrs so if i was you, and i had a relitivly new grand am and the bearings were gone in the water pump i would leave the thermostat alone and fix the pump, why fix whats not broke especially if its gonna cost alot. chances are you dont need a thermostat. at NAPA it will cost like 25-35 dollars for the water pump. dont bother with the thermostat.
Q:My water pump is sitting very close if not rubbing against the case. There were shavings and a groove. Would this cause it to knock? Also would this blow up the lower end? One more, Should it be in the center or offset twards the top?
Perhaps one of the shaft's retainers, the bearing, or gear is worn, allowing the water pump shaft to move in and out of the case - causing the impeller to rub on the outer cover. Try to pull the water pump out and push it in - there shouldn't be any play. If there is, figure out why. If the impeller can move in and out, that would cause it to knock. If there were any metal shavings in the coolant, they would scrape the outer cover. The water pump cover isn't an even shape, so I don't know what you mean by should it be in the center The bottom end and the cooling system are 2 separate entities. A problem with one will not affect the other.

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