Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5026

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5026 is one of the most popular color in the present market. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones. Due to its simple design, this model has been exported to many countries in Middle East and Africa, and is also widely used in China domestic market.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 500x500mm, 7pcs/Ctn, 890 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1512m2/20’Fcl

 

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5026

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5026

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5026

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available, which is cut from the basic tile 60*60. Normally for soluble salt, people like the basic size more.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

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Q:Is there a cheap tiles to have radiation?
All the objects in nature, as long as the temperature above the absolute temperature of zero, are in the form of electromagnetic waves to keep out the heat, this way of transmitting energy called radiation. The energy emitted by an object through radiation is called radiant energy. Radiation is calculated according to Roentgen / Hour (R) The media claims that the so-called granite that can cause radioactive damage to the human body, mainly refers to the relatively long decay time radon 22 (half-time of 3.83 days). In fact, since ancient times human beings live in a radioactive environment. Radioactive is not only natural stone, paint, cement, red brick, ceramics and other building materials are also. Need to be properly understood and treated correctly. Scientific development shows that a certain dose of radiation will not cause harm to the human body and the environment, the rational use can also benefit mankind. The use of stone in the home, the release of radiation from the tiles on the human body is negligible. If too concerned about the words of their own modern housing can not live, and modern residential structure of the main concrete, and concrete material is sand, sand is actually a small point of the stone .... dizzy dare not want to live to the moon is not the same kind of radiation
Q:How many pieces of a tiles are there in general?
Look at the specifications! General 600 * 600 4 pieces 800 * 800 3 pieces, some thick brick 2 pieces
Q:Help.. removing thinset tile mortar from drywall?
muriatic acid - at home crappot or lowe's
Q:How can I tell which ceramic tiles are good quality?
Go to Home Depot, you will be able to find someone that works there and they will show you a wide variety of ceramic tiles. You would probably find what you are looking for or either you would see something you like. Let the professionals handle the work.
Q:Removing carpet and installing tile?
While the peel and stick will stick to the floor, I'd still recommend an underlayment. Underlayment properly put down will even out the rough spots on the floor. The subfloor, directly over the joists, is probably structurewood or commonly called OSB. You could use plywood or fiberrock. Stagger the seams of the underlayment with the seams of the subfloor. For example, if the first sheet of underlayment will land on the seam, cut it in half so the remainder of the seams will stagger, hopefully that makes sense. If you go with ceramic tile, there is one method that go directly on top of structurewood. It requires a special prep, adhesive and grout. And it is definitely not for the novice. It is uses TEC's 1step mortar. It may not even be available in your market. Google TEC 1 step But for the novice, no offense, I recommend using either backerboard or Duro-Rock. You spread, thinset mortar, doesn't need to be latex modified for underlayment, set the board, nail with roofing nails or screw. The instructions are available on line. But nail or screw every 4 along the edges and 8 in the middle. Use the fiberglass tape before you set tile. This should latex modified. There are different ways people like to do this. Some say as you tile, some just stick the tape down and skim the top. What I like is to skim a thin layer over the seams, put the tape down, then make sure there are no ridges. Let sit over night. That way the next day, I can pop lines, and set tile. As far as setting tile, it easy to do when you know what you are doing. It also easy to screw it up when don't know what you are doing. I've seen novices screw it up pretty bad. If you know someone that has tiled before, I hope you get some help. With perhaps a thousand dollars of material on the line, it will be well worth a free lunch and a couple beers at the end of the day.
Q:ceramic floor tile chips?
Hi there. You've presented an excellent question and I have the ultimate solution for you! As a tile contractor, I have in fact used this technique a dozen times with perfect results every time. If these are small chips in the tile, touch them up with appliance touch-up paints or an oil enamel paint with a gloss similar to that of your tile. It's usually pretty simple finding a color that will match wonderfully. If these are larger sized chips or there is a corner of a tile is broken off, shape two-part epoxy putty to fit this area. The epoxy can easily be sanded lightly when dry, then painted with the appliance touch-up or enamel paint. All of these products can be found at your local Lowes or Home Depot. Note: this is a quick fix for a chipped tile... not a cracked one. Cracked tiles are usually a sign of something wrong... other than the crack in the tile and the surface needs investigated thoroughly before determing the proper fix. It's actually VERY difficult to accidentally crack a tile that has been installed properly. But I'm sure the above fix will work fine for your described problem. Good luck and let me know how it worked out for you!
Q:tips on how to tile a room in my house?
start by measuring to the center of ea room, [from each wall] use a chalk line to snap a line , so you end up with a plus + line in each room start at the corner of the plus, [square line] lay the tile, from the center out, cut the tile at the wall,s
Q:when cutting tile for the corner of the shower stall should I leave a gap on each side of the tile?
the answer is yes you need that gap.
Q:What can I expect behind the tiles?
If the tiles go all the way around the room, measure up 4' at each corner. Use a chalk line or level to make a horizontal line around the room. All hardware below this line should be removed. Towel bars, heat register covers, cabinets, toilet, door trim, etc. If the wall is drywall, you could cut along this line with a drywall hand saw. If you have access to a sawzall (reciprocating saw), the process will go quick. (If you're handy, you should have this tool). To avoid cutting wires, pipes, pay close attention when cutting. Lay tool against wall in line with chalk line. Start blade, slowly, then lower blade to line. Now tilt blade inward. CAUTION. Go only as deep as needed to penetrate wall. If you go deeper, you risk cutting wires or plumbing. Now pull saw along line around perimiter of room. Safety glasses are recommended during cuttiing and removal. Use hammer to make hole in wall just below cut line. Using Gloves, pull sections of drywall and tile by hand as much as possible. If screws remain in the studs hit with a hammer at a 45% angle. they should break off. If it's nails, you should pull them. Floor tiles will come up with a flat pry bar and a hammer. Just pick a spot along an edge. Use a couple sharp blows with hammer to start, then use flat bar and hammer to peel out floor tile and grout. Hope this motivates you to go for it.
Q:What is better for a kitchen floor, vinyl or tile?
I think you're correct about your comment with respect to wet, high traffic areas. I don't thinks self stick is a good idea in a bathroom or a kitchen. I have had success with a better quality vinyl, they are much easier to work with than cheap stuff while still being inexpensive. I also recommend laminate flooring, it installs easily with minor trimming around corners, edges etc. but I've done 2 kitchens in the past year for friends the project only take a day and they love it.

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