• Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series System 1
  • Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series System 2
  • Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series System 3
Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series

Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Introduction of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series

QW, WQ, YW, LW, GW no-clogged sewage pump is a newly developed pump, based on the combination of the advanced technology from abroad and domestic features, which is good at energy-saving, anti-winding, no-clog, automatic installation and automatic control. This pump is excellent in transporting water with solid-particles and long fiber contained.

This pump has introduced special impeller structure and neo mechanical seals, to make it more efficient in delivering solid particles and long fiber contained water. CoMPared with traditional impeller, the new impeller, with spiral-flow type or double-leaf type that has an excellent delivery capacity, together with suitable volute, can improve the performance of the pump, running smoothly without any vibration.

Applications of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
Sewage discharging of living plot
Sewage system of municipal works
Sewage system in factory and mine corporation
Waste water discharging of public facility
Unit to other water-discharging system

Features of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
1. The impeller adopts particular large channel structure, so the drain capacity has been improved greatly. It can effectively pass the solid grain whose diameter is about 50%of the pump caliber.
2. The balanced rotor part and the proper bearing arrangement have effectively balanced the redial and axial load of pump, so it ensures the unit to run long and steadily with little vibration and low noise.
3. This type pump can adopt different installation forms according to the consumer's requirements: Single-pipe or double-pipe.
4. Mechanical seal adopts the latest material and is made with extra care. So its life is over 8000 hours.
5. The pump can be equipped with liquid-level automatic control cabinet according to the consumer's requirements.
6. The whole machine can be started and stopped automatically according to the changes of level. It doesn't need a special person to guard, so the application is quite convenient and it is easy to realize automatic management.

Note: Case of special temperature, pressure, high erosion etc, should be put forward in advance, so we can provide you more reliable models.

Working Conditions of Non Clogging Submersible Sewage Pump QW Series
Medium temperature: -15~+60
Medium consistency: ≤ 1.3x103kg/m3
Rated speed: 980-2900r/min
Medium ph scope: 5-9
System pressure: ≤ 0.6MPa
Rotation: Clockwise rotation viewed from motor

Q:How do you remove it without taking the engine out?
Disconnect lower radiator hose (8286) from the water pump lower tube. Remove the engine mount nuts. Remove the cowl extension panel. Disconnect the water bypass hose and the heater hose from the water pump outlet tube. Remove the water pump outlet tube bolt and position the tube assembly out of the way. Install the lifting eye to the exhaust manifold (9430). Attach engine lifting equipment and raise the engine 127 mm (5 inches). Remove the bolt and the accessory belt idler pulley. Remove the bolts and the generator support bracket. Remove the four bolts and the water pump pulley (8509). Remove the water pump. Remove the five nuts. Remove the five studs. Remove the four bolts. Remove the water pump, lower tube and gasket as an assembly.
Q:Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!
I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck
Q:My fiance's 2002 Cougar is overheating and we can't seem to diagnose the problem. As soon as she touches the gas pedal, the meter shoots to quot;Hquot;, but when we sit at a red light, it returns to center. I tried googling a few things and I've gotten a few things about the water pump, but I know next to nothing about cars. Where is it so I can look at it and feel dumb about STILL not being able to do anything? =D
Leave the water pump alone! It sounds to me like your gauge is malfunctioning. Every so often an electrical gauge will fail and give strange readings. It could either be the sensor that reads your coolant temp or the gauge body itself. Your car cannot go from overheating to fine while stationary at a red light. Take it to a shop (that specializes in electrical, they're out there) and tell them the temp gauge is acting wacky. If you INSIST to know the location of your water pump...should be on the passenger side of the car mounted to the engine. It's either driven by an accessory belt or the timing belt, I can't remember at the moment. Here's a trick also. Water pumps are designed to leak when they fail. See if you can find coolant spilling out of anywhere a few ounces at a time. Good luck!
Q:I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?
leaky water pump would cause overheating. *overheating* would cause a chamber gasket sealing issue. so it's not the pump that caused the coolant to fail the contamination test. it's collateral damage to chamber sealing caused by the overheat condition as a result of a bad water pump. the real Q here is the type of engine. we've no idea what that is or the yr/make/model of the platform. some engines have oil and coolant passages on the intake manifold. even if those passages are blind. so in the end, it could be an intake or head gasket that took a hit after the overheat condition. -------- cost effective to fix? couldn't tell ya. that would be determinded by the condition/value of the platform, and what all took collateral damage and cost of what needs to be done. since there's no vehicle or engine info, that can only be determined by you and a diagnostic tech of your choosing.
Q:i have a jetta and would like to know how difficult it would be to do. I know its a german car this is why i ask. thanks
Looks like you're covered with the mechanical aspect of your question! My input involves your comment on its a german car. I have several friends that are mechanics/techs. To a man, they say it doesnt matter what make (Japanese, American,European,Korean,etc.) the manufacturer assembles each for its ease of assembly at the factory. Ease of repair is a secondary consideration. All you have to do is look at their skinned knuckles as proof ! They all well deserve their paychecks!
Q:What is the influence of the speed of the pump motor on the pump?
The question is very general,In general, high speed motors are used in 2 stages, 2900 revolutions per secondLow speed motor with 4 stage, 1450 revolutions per secondYou can probably generalize to thisWith the flow, head, run the pump speed type low noise will be reduced but the service life of the motor (relatively high speed), but the speed of price ratio low speed expensive (motor level 4 level 2 line than for more than copper)For example, it seems that the reason why turtles live longer is that their heart rate is slow.
Q:can i drive my car ,with a blown water pump, 5 miles to a service center?
i guess you mean it leaking water like crazy from the pump. yes you can drive 5 miles. start out with a cold eng, leave the radiator cap loose plan a route where you dont have to set at stop lights. And drive slower as to not heat up the eng , not 60 mph. Take 5 gallons of water with you to add if you need to. what ever you do dont let it over heat. the shop should come and tow you cheap, like $35 , that would be safer. but if it is just leaking water as long as you keep water in it you can go 5 miles. i have done that sort of thing several times. 5 miles id easy if your not stuck in stop and go traffic.
Q:My water pump went out. I had a new water pump put on my accord a year and a month ago. Since then have driven 5-6,000 miles in a small city town. Does this makes sense. Could it be a cheaper water pump was put on my car and it went out. The person who worked on it is a mechanic who does a bunch of cars on the side. Last time he worked on my brakes, I had to bring it back because he put cheap ones on.Can I call this guy back? What could I say?
Short answer: At least 75,000 miles, even under extreme conditions. The main cause of water pump failure is bearing failure due to crud (mostly rust) mixed in with the water/coolant mixture pushed through your engine by the pump. Variables: If you did not have complete cooling system flush at the last pump's replacement, the new pump's life expectancy would be reduced, but not significantly. Many folks misdiagnose engine overheating and the appearance of coolant on their garage floor as pump failure. If we believe Click and Clack the Tappit Brothers (a.k.a. Tom and Ray Magliozzi) you did not actually get a new water pump a year and a day ago, but you did buy a tank of gas for the mechanic's ski boat. Take your car to a reputable mechanic's shop (referred by a happy customer or 6, or Angie's List), dress as a peasant and tell 'em the car was inherited by you after your parents died in a horrible fire. Bringing 4 screaming infants couldn't hurt, either. If you can't rent some kids, you may consider what many women do, but it involves removing any rings, wearing a low cut top, smiling a lot and repeatedly flicking your eye lids as you play with your hair...
Q:What is a 1 inch water pump?
A pump with a diameter of 1 inches.
Q:I had to have my water pump replaced on my '95 Saturn because the car was leaking coolantFirst, why does the coolant leak with a bad water pump? Second, I paid $250 part and labor. Did I get screwed or is that pretty fair?
first off a water pump does NOT have bearings as the previous person commented , they have bushings and the bushings are made of brass and with time the brass wears out and causes a leak. some water pumps have weep holes so when the bushing goes bad water would leak from the hole instead of in the motor. 250 is a fair price considering how much work it takes to get to them. I just did a alternator on my wife's car and we had to jack the motor half way out to get to it

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