Q:Just moved into a house with tile floors, I have fiber mopped, stick-vac‘d, wet mopped them and they still feel gritty on my bare feet. Anyone have any suggestions or will they always feel dirty?

cleansing hardwood flooring or tile will greater effective than probably be the comparable, cleansing smart. My very own determination is hardwood. They do would desire to be wiped sparkling alot and you will experience any speck of dirt on them. I even have tile flooring in my kitchen and this is the comparable way. Sorry i do no longer think this helps. compromise get the two, my residing house has hardwood flooring for the era of and then interior the kitchen and bathing room we've tile.

Q:What procedure to use to keep the tiles from falling from the ceiling before the mortar dries.

I was just thinking about this. Can you attach the tiles to backerboard or Durrock on the ground first and then glue the whole ceiling into place with 2x4 proping it up or leave a couple tiles out to also catch a few screws with the construction adhesive. later you can touch up around the edges and grout If NotHow about contact cement use alot of it though not a thin coat. OH and don't use mortar use construction adhesive it will actually stick and better then mastic. Mortar is for the floor

Q:I want to install hardwood in all my house, except bathrooms.I currently have ceramic tile flooring. I know removing it and installing solid hardwood will be expensive.Can I install floaring hardwood over the ceramic tile?? I went to Lowe‘s, and the flooring assistant recommended me to to that. With the correct underlayment should be not trouble at all.Have you install it that way?? WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE??

I have installed floating hardwood and laminate over ceramic tile. It can be successfully done. Most floating hardwoods require a foam padding beneath them and are glued together. In your case I would also suggest the use of a 6 mil plastic sheeting to serve as a moisture barrier. There are a lot of issues with floating hardwood floor. It is fairly new and the results so far are not too good. It tends to be noisy, separate, and cup. It is also difficult to install any boards that are not perfectly straight, which is most of them. I would not recommend any Bruce floating hardwood, such as sold at Lowe's. If you cannot remove the tile, a quality laminate would in this case be a better choice than hardwood.

Q:I am considering learning how to become a tile setter. Do any of you know if it is difficult for women?

Becoming a tile setter is not hard at all. I've been a tiler for 7 years and am now 24 years old. The hardest part of the job is carrying countless boxes of tiles up and down stairs. You have to not be afraid to use hand tools such as grinders and undercut saws. Also, be prepared to make a mess of yourself with all the thinset and glue because you will be repositioning tile to fit it right and will get stuff on your hands and continue to wipe on yourself :)

Q:I now want to match the tile and extend it into my living room and dining area. How would I go about finding the same tile?

Can you contact the company that laid the tile? Do you remember how you picked it out? Catalogue, Store? Even if you find the name, it might not be a perfect match after all this time. I do my own tiling and I always buy extra in case of repairs later. Storing them in the original box gives you the Manufacturer and style #. The tile contractor should have done this as he has no need for any extra tile left over.

Q:I am currently removing old cork tiles from the floor of my house. They are stuck down to the cement and as I‘m chiselling them up I‘m being left with a lot of glue residue with fragments of the cork too. Any tips on easy removal of the old tiles, but more importantly removing the glue? We are replacing them with new ceramic floor tiles. I was thinking maybe a heat gun and a scraper to clean it up but Dad has suggested a grinder! Any experiences with fast and easy removal of residue? I‘ve still got a room of cork to remove so if there‘s a better way than hammer and chisel I‘d love to hear about it!

Just start scrapping it all off and patch the drywall after with drywall compound....then sand and paint....easy job

Q:I was told by one guy at Menards to use a 1/4 teeth trowel for 6-1/2‘‘ x 1/4‘‘ floor tiles. I am worried this will be too much glue and will ooze out the 3/16‘‘ gaps between tiles. then it will be a nightmare mess, and can‘t grout.Also do you just lay the tiles on the glue? or press down ?how much?Thank you very much

Trowels come in several shapes and sizes generally from 3/16 v-notch to half-inch square notch. The proper trowel size is basically matched to the tile size; the smaller the tile – the smaller the trowel; the larger the tile – the larger the trowel. I'd use 1/2 x 1/2 square notch for floor tiles that large.

Q:Hi, I was wondering if the house appraisal for a house with all hardwood floor was higher than it is if the house has all tile. Thanks!

There isn't a rule of thumb on this. Gorgeous wood floors in great condition may be worth more than nasty outdated tile, but a floor full of heated travertine, italian marble, or slate will be worth more than a crap pergo floor or wood flooring that's torn to hell.

Q:tile itself

if it's ceramic/porcelain, go to home depot. Rent a hilti jackhammer with 2 different bits (they'll know which ones to give you). one is a narrow chisel that pops the tiles up. the other is a wide blade that will remove thinset. sometimes the wide blade works good for removing the tile, also. whichever works best for YOU. They will explain how to use it. It is WAY easy to use and you will NOT regret it! You will want to plastic off areas that you are not removing tile completely, there will be dust. good luck! don't be cheap and buy the handscraper! you'll hate yourself.

Q:best way to install floor 12inch by 12 inch floor tile

First you decide if you want a seam or a row of tiles in the middle. Make sure the floor is clean and without divots (fill in any holes). Drop a chalk line down the center of the room and lay a row of tiles dry (no stick) along the line to see how they look. You don't want one end to leave a sliver and the other end to leave almost a full tile - try to balance the ends that have to be cut. Now dry-lay a perpendicular row from the center to check the ends going across the room. Lay a full tile or its edge down on the chalk line. This first tile will be used to orient all your tiles so make sure you're satisfied with the placement. Then lay a whole permanent row of full tiles down the center. Now you have to decide if you want the tiles layed side by side or brick wall pattern. Next lay the perpendicular row down permanently. Now all you have to do is fill in the quadrants as far as you can go with full tiles. After all your full tiles are down, it's the cut ones that remain. Slide a full tile in place up to the wall and mark where you have to cut. Peel and stick tiles usually can be cut with a sheetrock knife and a metal straight edge or a good pair of shears. Some of the cuts can be tricky - I can't see them so you'll have to muddle through.