• Hot Dip Galvanized Steel Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring System 1
  • Hot Dip Galvanized Steel Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring System 2
  • Hot Dip Galvanized Steel Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring System 3
Hot Dip Galvanized Steel Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring

Hot Dip Galvanized Steel Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring

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Quick Details

  • Steel Grade: 60#,65#,45#,50#,Q195,Q235

  • Standard: AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS

  • Wire Gauge: 0.15-8.0

  • Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)

  • Type: Galvanized

  • Application: Manufacturing

  • Alloy Or Not: Non-alloy

  • Special Use: Cold Heading Steel

  • Model Number:60#,65#,45#,50#,Q195,Q235

  • Zinc coating: Hot dip galvanized wire 30g/m2-820g/m2Size: Hot dip galvanized wire 0.15-8.0mm

  • Tensile Strength: Hot dip galvanized wire 355-560 N/mm2

  • Elongation: Hot dip galvanized wire ≥20%

  • Package: Hot dip galvanized wire 20-1200kg/coil

  • Departure port: Tianjin Port(Xingang Port)

  • Material: 60#,65#,45#,50#,Q195,Q235

  • Packing: Coil. Spool. Reel. and so on

  • Galvanized way: Hot dip and ELC

  • Twist: Hot dip galvanized wire ≥20

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Coil. spool
Delivery Detail:After order 20days

Specifications

Hot dip galvanized steel wire
1)0.15mm-8.0mm
2)Low, middle,and high carbon wire
3)Zinc coating from 30g-820g/m2


Treat:hot dipped

Diameter mm

Tolerance mm

Weight of zinc coating(no less than) g/m²

Strength of extension Mpa

Rate of elongation LO=200mm(no less than)

Resistance coefficient Ωmm²/m(20°C)

1

2

1.5

+0.08

-0.04

150

230

355 ~ 540

12

Normal:ρ20≤0.132

With copper:

ρ20≤0.146

2.0

190

240

2.5

210

260

355 ~ 540

3.0

230

275

4.0

+0.10

-0.06

300

480

5.0

6.0

7.0
8.0



Q:I have a minivan with a flat 5 pin wiring connecter at back. We bought an old utility trailer with no wiring. It has the two rear lights, one on each side with 2 wires sticking out of each. We got the flat 5 pin trailer connector to connect to the van and bought a long piece of cable which has the white, brown, green and yellow wires in it. Where do I connect what? I have the wire that connects to the van with the four colours and 2 wires coming out of each light for the trailer.Thanks!
White = ground Brown = running lights Green = right turn Yellow = left turn The brown wire is common to each light.White to trailer frame.The right and left will go to the other wire at each light.Make sure the green and yellow or connected to the wire that makes the brightest light.
Q:Im replacing the factory rear speakers in my car but cant figure on which wires are positive and which are negative. I went on a site for impalas but the color wires they have listed are not the same color wires in my car your help will be appreciated.
your positive is always going to be the lighter color or the one with the stripe running down it
Q:I needed a new tail light for my trailer. The aftermarket tail lights only came with two wires sticking out the back, one red and one black. The stock tail light that broke had 3 wires and so does the harness on the trailer end. People have told me that even though it is different it will work. Do I join the two hot wires together with the red wire and then the return wire to the black? There is no wiring diagram avalible and I dont have the money to replace then entire lighting system. Thanks for your help.
Pull the lens and look at the bulb. If it is a 2 element bulb then it will work, if it is a single element it will not. If it is a 2 element then one of the wires is turn and stop light and the other is tail light. It will use a body ground in that case. On your trailer harness you will have a brown wire, that is tail lights, the turn and stop light (same wire) will be either green or yellow depending on what side of the trailer you are on. The white wire is ground. The turn and stop light will be much brighter than the tail light so just twist the wires together and see which is which. You can hook the white wire to the mounting screw of the light fixture to be sure you have a good ground.
Q:Question about the 3.5mm cable, I cut it open and there are 4 individual wires inside of it. I've only ever seen 2 wires and a loose one. Which ones are right/left and would the other 2 both be ground?The colors are red/green/white/black. I'm assuming the red/white are right left like normal? But I'm not too sure.
General audio wire color standards: White/Black are ground. Red is Right+ and Green is left+. There are separate wires needed for headphones, and often the ground wire breaks causing the wire to otherwise completely fail. Mono is left only (the tip) + Ground. The wire can usually be replaced with standard 4 wire phone (16-18 Ga) cable, when used for headphone (low power) applications.
Q:Okay so I just finished replacing a stolen car radio, but I think I messed up the wiring... When I turn off the car the radio doesn't seem to save the presets I had... it resets the whole stereo... I think it has something to do with the wiring I did... When I installed the radio there were two 12+ volt wires... One said 12+ volt constant and was yellow, and the other said 12+ volt switch and was pink... Problem was when I wired only the yellow one the car stereo wouldn't work, so I tried the pink one and that didn't work.. SO thinking I was clever I wired both to the 12+ volt and VOILA the radio turned on... Problem is I don't think that's how I was supposed to wire it... I have a '97 Honda accord Ex and I don't know if that's what I was supposed to do... :#92;
the yellow wire is supposed to go to constant power. the pink wire is supposed to go to a switchable power source. usually an ACC wire.
Q:Can anyone send me a file or link of the original through the wire where he sounds like more of his mouth is wired and has the lyric quot;in the same hospital where biggie n tupac diedplease thanks
Through okorder /
Q:Hi,I have an issue with wiring in house. This is in Paris, France. I will share a foto so you can have a clearer picture what my question is.
It's not just your oven that makes a difference, but the year your oven was manufactured in AND the country it was manufactured in that makes a difference. It was easy to identify your supply wires as Brown = live wire; Blue = return (neutral) wire; green/yellow = earth ground, and this is single phase wiring. There would be an orange wire for 3 phase... ...but the oven wiring conforms to a different standard of gray - white -red where red is possibly the ground line, while the other two are your live and return wires, with the gray likely to be the return wire....BUT...in some time periods, the red wire was the live wire. Your best bet is to test the oven wiring out with a multi-meter and look at what color of wire is connected to where. The earth ground should be connected to the oven's cabinetry; the live wire would be wired to the oven's internal fuse or circuit breaker, and then wired to the business end of the heater elements, timers, etc. The return wire would be connected to the other side of the elements and timers. Your most reliable way to address this is to consult a professional. That second link I posted has both old and new French wiring standards, and neither match your oven. And if your oven isn't manufactured in France, you have yet another level of wiring code to unscramble.
Q:My house is currently wired using Cat-5 lines. If I were to replace the Cat-5 wiring with Cat-6 wiring, would I see an increase in my DSL speed?
VSA (Very Short Answer): No You may think this way: you have a working 100mbps LAN linking your computers. Maybe you have a 1000mbps LAN in case you use Gigabit Ethernet. You have a leased line (DSL) from the ISP rated for, maybe, 8 mbps --- it is an example, ok?. And you know this bandwidth is almost never achieved, and that any bandwidth you have is shared among your local computers. So even if the LAN performance increases by some infinitesimal factor by just using better cabling, you still are constrained by the bandwidth you pay for, or worse, the bandwidth you actually get from the ISP. The CAT-6 cables are really effective on very long cable runs or situations where the cables cross areas with high rates of electrical interference, as noted here by another user.
Q:So I know that the neutral wire is the 'return wire'. But why does my textbook say that it has the potential to have the same amount of electricity as the live wire (if the wiring is faulty)? But essentially, if the wiring is not faulty it is technically safe to touch it, it has 0 volts.Could someone explain this to me?
a million. whilst that is working regularly, Voltage could be present for the time of stay and independent twine. cutting-edge could flow from stay to independent twine. 2. whilst there's a fault, The voltage would be present interior the stay twine and since the circuit isn't closed, No cutting-edge could be flowing. 3. No that is no longer ultimate. yet at times, the earth twine could be transmitted to the sub station the place in its joined with the independent. 4. green 5. The Casing could be linked to earth. for this reason the independent is shorted with earth.
Q:I have 4 gauge wiring ground and power cables, as well as a smaller guage wiring that is colored grey. I have the amp hooked up to the gound and power, how do I connect the sub to the amp?The subs is a 08 L7 in the kicker truck box wired to 2 ohms. The amp is the Alpine PDX 1.600.
take (i use 12 gauge wire on my sub installs) 16-14 gauge wire and hook up the positive on the amp to the red terminal on the sub and negative to the black one. I'm not really sure what you need exactly

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