Electric Petrochemical Processing Pump Unit
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
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Electric Petrochemical Processing Pump Unit
Product Introduction and characteristics
The G5 IH series end suction pump is a new generation of the traditional IH type pump. The two have the same performance and installation dimensions. It’s as per ISO24256,ISO2858,GB5662-85 Axial Suction Centrifugal Pump (16 bar)-Mark, performance and dimensions.
Based on the suspension appearance design of XA pump, the G5 IH pump is provided with strengthening ribs on its casin so that it’s characterized by its nice-looking appearance, safe and reliable operation and long service life.
Suspension part of G5 IH pump: four kinds of suspension, being universal, cover and cross the full line, thus ensuring a faster delivery and a smaller inventory.
Shaft seal mode of G5 IH pump: including packing seal, single-end face unbalanced mechanical seal, single-end face balanced mechanical seal, double-end face unbalanced mechanical seal and double-end face balanced mechanical seal, as required by the customer. The seal is safe and reliable and has a long service life. The pump’s body and impeller adopt the precision casting with wax matrix, so it has a higher efficiency and a better appearance quality than the traditional IH.
The coupling is threesection and demountable. If a monoblock type is required, we can make special treatment to design the welding base separately. Generally the installation dimensions are the same as the traditional IH. The G5 IH series all adopts the precision base.
Main Application
It’s mainly used to transfer corrosive media containing no suspended particles or those unallowed to be polluted for industrial sectors like petrolem, chemical engineering, synthetic fiber, chemical fertilizer, power station, metallurgy, food and hospital.
Working conditions
Medium temperature: -20°C<T<+105°C
Up to 400°C when taking special measures:
Flow Q=3.4~2000m3/h,Head:3-200(m)
Rotation speed n=1450~3600 r/min,50Hz/60Hz
Pump’s rotation direction: clockwise when viewed from the motor to the pump.
- Q:Hi, my water pump isn't working in my rover 400i V reg 99 model......does anyone know where under my bonet this is located and whether it's easy done at home?
- water pumps are never an easy fix. most the time you have to take the fan off, and the radiator as well so a person has room to work. MOST water pumps are in front of the motor, towards the bottom. If you follow your radiator hoses you will find it.
- Q:do you trust the bran?
- Point blank, ask the folks at Auto Zone where this water-pump was produced. If it was re-manufactured off-shore leave it on their shelves. I trust you knew these Duralast water-pumps are re-manufactured. All AC-Delco starters, alternators and water-pumps are re-manufactured in the USA. Every part inside the reused housings are factory brand new with parts made here in the US.
- Q:can bad water pump make car overheat?
- Yes because it what allows the engine coolant to flow to keep the car on the right temperature.
- Q:Okay so we have a water pump outside instead of city water. A few days ago we noticed that it would turn off like always once the tank was full but then just would never turn back on. It was odd to us since it would always turn on and off at appropriate times. Now its on maybe 10 seconds and it shuts off. I took off one of the clear hoses it has and notices a green ooze inside it. I cleaned out the ooze and tapped some of the pipes in hopes of some more of it coming out. Since we have had a leak there is green stuff which i am guessing is lime, on the side of the tank. I'm also guessing this must bee the green ooze. What should I do? Now there is no water whatsoever being pumped and the time it does turn on very little water passes through. To me it sounds like something is blocking the pipes but if I pay hundreds for someone to come replace the pipes and check out the motor I dont want to end up with this problem again. If anyone has any information as to helping me I would so greatly appreciate it.
- do you have shallow or deep well its the middle of summer the well could be dry you might have lost your prime on your pump there will be a bolt for priming take bolt out pour water in to hole untill full restart pump if pump doesnt fill up you might a stuck foot valve.
- Q:How hard is it change a 1993 subaru imprezza water pump
- www.okorder /... Difficulty is dependent on how comfortable you are with doing the above.
- Q:Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.
- Q:i changed my fuel pump and now my car wont turn over....any help? maybe starter?
- im confused at everything you are saying here. first off you said you changed the water pump and then it wont start and u said u changed the fuel pump in the next sentence.... so which one did you change?? and how does it try to start but not turn over? if it trys to start the engine has to turn over other wise you would hear a click sound which could be low battery or looose connections... try jumping it. if that doesnt work it could be the starter as well. but generaly if the starter goes out it wont make no noise at all when u turn the key..... if urs makes noise then its trying to turn which means it needs more power... unless you did somthing wrong and the engine is in such a bind it cant turn. now if ur engine is turning over when u try to start it then it could mean its still not getting fuel so u need to check for fuel. if it has fuel then ur problem could resume in no spark to ur plugs which means if u replaced the fuel pump cause it wouldnt start then that may not have been ur problem the whole time u should have checked for spark and fuel before replacing random parts cause u think they are bad. so depending on what your trying to say here its hard to give u a direct answer cause u completely reword yourself over and over and nothing makes sense.
- Q:Ok, so I was driving the other day when I heard this quot;clunksound...my AC went out (stopped blowing cold), and power steering went out. I pulled over and one of the wheels where the serpentine belt goes on was off and obviously the belt was off too. I got it towed to a shop where they showed me I needed a new belt - it was ripped, and told me I need a new water pump...all together a 400 dollar job after labor and parts. I was hoping I would just need a new belt and they could bolt back on the wheel...From a chic standpoint, this seemed logical. I know nothing about cars and I'm always very skeptical when I take my car anywhere to get it worked on bc I could be told anything and wouldn't know the difference...Has anyone had a similar experience or does this sound like the problem? I have a 07 honda civic...around 80,000 miles.
- 400 okorder and the water pump replacement was 273 to 322 dollars. I could not find a price for the water pump belt and the tension-er pulley that is usually replaced then too but piece wise I think the shop is not trying to hose you. Its always good to pay attention however. anytime you lose a belt like that, shut off the car it can overheat quickly and blow a head gasket or worse the motor. Some people just do not understand that when a catastrophic failure occurs and you lose several important functions all at once park the car until it gets fixed. Repairpal takes a bit of getting used to when first trying out, but it can give you some price guides that are right on the money when you are not sure what the mechanics are telling you. good luck pay attention.
- Q:here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!
- with the switch set to operate at 30/50 the tank should have 27 or 28 pounds of air with no water in tank and a faucet open with pump turned off...once this is set the pump will come on at 30 and off at 50 if it goes higher than this the switch is bad or the adjustments have been changed....tightening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off pressure higher...loosening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off lower....the short spring sets the difference between the two...tightening the shorth spring raises cut off pressure only...loosening the short spring lowers cut off pressure only....
- Q:my sump pump keeps filling with sewer water. i cant figure out why or where it could be coming from. and the smell is awful.
- I'm guessing that instead of the ground water being pumped to outsde somewhere, it was installed into the sewer system. If a check valve wasn't installed or if it leaks by, and your sewer line is backing up, it will backfeed down the outlet pipe and into your pit. If you had a lot of water coming in from the ground, it would force the sewer water out of a drain somewhere, like a laundry drain, sink drain, shower drain, or toilet. If this is the case, get your sewer line to the main checked and have the sump pump installed properly.
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Electric Petrochemical Processing Pump Unit
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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