Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2)

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1 unit
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1000 unit/month

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Product Description:

Basic Info.

Model NO.:3.5SD2/90QJD2

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel


Structure:Multistage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump

Capacity: 2.0 to 3.0 M3/H:Adopted The NEMA Standard

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE, SGS

Production Capacity:20000PCS/Year

Product Description

3.5 Inch Deep Well Pump 

 For water supply from wells or reservoirs. For domestic use, for civil and industrial      applications. For garden use and irrigation.

-Operating Conditions
 Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
 Maximum sand content: 0.3%
 Maximum immersion: 91m
 Minimum well diameter: 3.5 inch

-Motor and Pump
 Rewindable motor
 Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
 Equip with special start-up control box.

 Adopted the NEMA standard
 Insulation class: B
 Protection grade: IP 68
 Intermal diameter of outlet :  1¼ " 1"

1 year (according to our general sales conditions) 

-Production Photo

MODELp2Capacity and head
m 3 /h00.511.522.533.544.55.6LengthWeight
1~sing phase 220-240V~Hz50KwHpL/min08172533425058667593mmkg
3.5SDM2/5-0.25 90QJD2/5-
3.5SDM2/7-0.37 90QJD2/7-0.370.370.53534333230282623181437178.7
3.5SDM2/11-0.55 90QJD2/11-0.550.550.7555545352494642383225489810.5
3.5SDM2/16-0.75 90QJD2/16-0.750.751.0787675716662554839305106311.9
3.5SDM2/19-1.1 90QJD2/19-
3.5SDM2/21-1.5 90QJD2/21-


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Q:how much do new brakes and a water pump cost?
Front metalic pads including labour is around 200-250$ Water pump it depends what its driven by, if its just a drive belt it wont take no more than an hour to do but if your timing belt drives it your looking at alot more money.. find out what drives the water pump..
Q:Help replacing water pump?
being a 78 it probably has a V belt instead of a serpentine belt. you loosen the adjustment bolt on the alternator and the long through bolt, push the alternator and the belt should come off. you will need to take the fan off, it should have 4 bolts to take out to remove the fan. then you take the hose off after you drain the radiator and take out the water pump bolts and pry off the pump. now before installing the new pump make sure the gasket surface is clean and dry. put some good sealer on both sides of the gasket. to keep the gasket from moving i use string like thread and tie the gasket on. put the pump in place, put the bolts back in and tighten them, put the hose back on, put the fan back on and tighten the bolts and refill the radiator. if you want good sealer use what i use. i use indian head shellac. once that stuff gets set up it won,t leak. auto zone sells it in a small brown bottle.
Q:Need help with my 2004 Yamaha R1 Oil Pump/Water Pump?
Yamaha Oil Pump
Q:Coolant dripping from A/C compressor - is it the water pump or the compressor itself?
water pump is bad
Q:Water pump runs a lot?
Jadee is correct. Your pump is waterlogged. This is a condition where all the compressable air has mixed with the water in the tank and the tank is full of water clear to the top, not allowing for any compression, which is where you get the pressure to push the water out when you open a fixture. When you open a fixture, regardless of which one, the pump senses a drop in pressure immediately and starts up. As soon as you close the fixture, the pump, which is now pumping water into the tank, senses the pressure coming quickly to where it needs to be and shuts off. There needs to be air in the top of the tank to compress in order for the system to function. If you have a bladder tank, (usually a green or blue tank with an indented seam around the middle of it), then most likely the bladder that's in the middle of the tank to keep the air and water apart so they don't mix, has ruptured and is now allowing the very thing to happen that it was designed to stop. You can drain the system of pressure and most of the water by turning off the pump and repressurizing the tank thru the air nozzle on top or the top side. Open a couple fixtures and allow the water to escape as you put pressure into the tank, until you get air and the water quits. Then turn off the fixtures, turn the pump back on and let it pump up. That will give you an air cushion on top of the tank and will let you use the system till you can decide whether you want to replace the tank or just use it as a convential resevoir system of old, (before bladder tanks). The procedure to restore the system to functionality is the same if it's an older tank without a bladder, only you may have a drain spigot on that type of a tank that will allow for gravity drainage of the water, instead of pressurization. It's not an uncommon occurance for those of us on older wells that don't have bladder tanks. We have to drain and restart ours about once every year or two, depending on how much time the grandkids spend here.
Q:Water pumps are always pumping water, what's the matter?
Is the self-priming pump, not the self-priming pump, the actual suction is too large?How much is the water pump voltage?Inlet pipe leak
Q:Solar panel requirement to run 1 HP water pump?
Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo
Q:Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?
Stop the condensate pump is not required to condensate users, such as reducing water, mechanical seal water, shaft seal cooling water, deaerator, whether you need water. Stop circulating pump requires three: 1, exhaust steam temperature below 50. 2, there is no circulating water users. 3. No drain to condenser. If stop immediately stop circulating water and condensate pump, the consequences can be imagined.
Q:Do pond water pumps make noise?
majority of the pond pumps you get to day are extreamly quiet and wont bother the fish or you at all
Q:Pump impeller diameter plus assembly what changes? What's the effect on the motor?
Two 1.5 kW desktop self-priming pump impeller 14.7cm primary current 15.5cm problems may occur.After the impeller increases, the flow, head, shaft power will increase (increase in volume see the following formula), the original 1.5KW motor may overload operation.

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