• Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2) System 1
  • Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2) System 2
Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2)

Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2)

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:3.5SD2/90QJD2

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel

Power:Electric

Structure:Multistage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump

Capacity: 2.0 to 3.0 M3/H:Adopted The NEMA Standard

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE, SGS

Production Capacity:20000PCS/Year

Product Description

3.5 Inch Deep Well Pump 

-Applications
 For water supply from wells or reservoirs. For domestic use, for civil and industrial      applications. For garden use and irrigation.

-Operating Conditions
 Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
 Maximum sand content: 0.3%
 Maximum immersion: 91m
 Minimum well diameter: 3.5 inch


-Motor and Pump
 Rewindable motor
 Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
 Equip with special start-up control box.

 Adopted the NEMA standard
 Insulation class: B
 Protection grade: IP 68
 Intermal diameter of outlet :  1¼ " 1"

-Warranty
1 year (according to our general sales conditions) 

-Production Photo
 


MODELp2Capacity and head
m 3 /h00.511.522.533.544.55.6LengthWeight
1~sing phase 220-240V~Hz50KwHpL/min08172533425058667593mmkg
3.5SDM2/5-0.25 90QJD2/5-0.250.250.55H(m)2625252423222017151126448
3.5SDM2/7-0.37 90QJD2/7-0.370.370.53534333230282623181437178.7
3.5SDM2/11-0.55 90QJD2/11-0.550.550.7555545352494642383225489810.5
3.5SDM2/16-0.75 90QJD2/16-0.750.751.0787675716662554839305106311.9
3.5SDM2/19-1.1 90QJD2/19-1.11.11.5939291898479716353426118513.6
3.5SDM2/21-1.5 90QJD2/21-1.51.52.0102101100969185776856437130315

 

Q:I don't want to have to rent or purchase a electric pump to pump the water out of my pool so are there other ways to get the water out besides the obvious (a bucket and alot of people). I am really tight on money so purchasing a device to do the work isn't a real option but I really need to drain the pool without damaging it.
On the off chance that you have a close area that is down hill from the bottom of the pool you could siphon it. Not a likely situation though. Siphoning is using a small hose, garden hose will probably be too big and sucking on the end of the hose to draw water though it. Once it starts flowing if the end is downhill from the bottom of the pool it will drain the pool all on its own.
Q:i dont think that the water pump is out. i have a 88 evinrude outboard and the other day i noticed that the water was barley trickling out the hose. then it just stopped coming out the hose. it still comes out of the exhaust just fine. the motor is not get hot. is it ok if it still comes out the exhaust/ i will attemp to run a wire up in the hose to see if it is clogged later today. what do yous think
I think you might want to replace the water pump impeller.
Q:I was wondering how to replace the water pump in a 94 Plymouth Voyager. Its my moms van and she is scared that they are going to have to pull the motor to get to the water pump to replace it. I dont know so i am hoping one of yall wonderful people do. along with your answers can you give me an estimate of how much it will cost to fix? Please!!!
book time to change the water pump is an hour, which is a kinda right if ou know what your doing. if not a lot longer...you'll need a few specialty tools, for the tension-er, but if you don't have a lot of time and some mechanical knowledge, don't try it
Q:do you trust the bran?
We dont install autozone anything at our shop. I would say no.
Q:I live in a house that uses a pump to push water from a tank to the bathroom and kitchen. It has a sensor that detects if water is flowing and pushes it much harder. Recently, it has been pushing the water for a second or less then it completely stops for a while. It's like a pulse of water then nothing. Can anyone give me feedback on what is wrong here? Thank you.
from okorder :Self-priming pump working principle is: the pump before you start in the pump shell filled with water (or) from the water in the pump housing.Start after high-speed rotating impeller flow to the vortex in the impeller, shell, then the entry form the vacuum, the inlet non-return door open, within the air into the pump suction tube and the impeller, to arrive at the outer edge.Self-priming pump is a self-priming centrifugal pump, it has compact structure, convenient operation, stable operation, easy maintenance, high efficiency, long service life, and have strong self-priming capacity, etc.Line does not need to install the bottom valve, only to ensure storage in pump body before work are quantitative liquid.Pump after the normal starting, impeller liquid of suction chamber and inlet line of air suction, and can completely mixed within the impeller, the function of centrifugal force, and liquid with gas to the vortex flow volume outside edge, the impeller has a certain thickness is formed on the outer edge of the white foam belt and high-speed rotating liquid ring.Gas-liquid mixture into the gas-liquid separation chamber through diffusion tube.At this time, due to the flow rate suddenly drops, lighter gas is separated from the mixture of liquid and gas through the pump body spit continues to rise.After degassing of liquid to liquid storage chamber, and the reflux hole again into the impeller, and impeller with inhalation of gases from the inlet line again mix, flow under the action of the high-speed rotating impeller and the impeller outer edge....As the process cycle, decreasing the air in the suction line, until all gas absorption, complete the self-priming process, pump put into normal operation. What you said phenomenon should be pipeline leak, which leads to the self-priming pump process is repeated.
Q:What is the function of the backflow pipe of the fire pump?
Generally, it is used to test the fire pump.The procedure is to start the fire pump - turn on the return pipe - return the water to the pool.The purpose of the installation is to prevent damage to the pipe caused by the excessive pressure caused by the pump.For every hour of the 2m flow fand self-priming pump, a spray gun flow is obviously too small, forced to use the pump load, affect the service life of the water pump.Add a return pipe, split water pressure, the problem is solved, adjust the flow of the return pipe, you can adjust the size of the spray gun pressure.If the spraying, the return pipe also plays a full stirring role.
Q:Pump adapter joint net outside tube, what is the principle?
At once the room after the fire, the internal fire pool once water shortage, the water tank can be within the fire truck hit the water chamber through the pump adapter connected to the fire extinguishing effect.
Q:Where is the water pump?How do i take it out, and replace it?
Another thing that's good to do is disconnect the battery , plus be sure to check the quality and mixture of the coolant with a anti-freeze tester , also have a container handy so nothing falls on the ground bec anti-freeze is poison to animals if they drink it etc. Hope that helps and best of luck.
Q:I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
Q:My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
water pump is driven by the serpentine belt. if your belt is slipping then it wont run your water pump, so you could try getting another belt for like 20 bucks at an auto store. the heater is run electrically. well more importantly by a 'blower motor'. it could even be the blower motor resistor, they are connected to the blower motor, and usually have green tape on them. most likely it is going to be the water pump from what you have described

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