• adjustable choke valve System 1
adjustable choke valve

adjustable choke valve

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API 6A Choke valve

     Choke valves are available in flanged ends threaded ends; both feature standard bore sizes from 1-3/16” thru 3-1/16”, in working pressures of 2,000 psi through 2,0000psi.

1.specifications of choke valve

Name

Adjustable Choke Valve

Visual

Feature

1.Wear-resistance, scourresistance

2.Reliable performance

3.The needle stucture is easy for the controlling and adjusting the flow.

End Connection

Flange,Thread,Union,BW

Size(mm)

2 1/16”- 4 1/16”

Temperature

K. L .P. R .S. T. U. V

Material

AA. BB. CC. DD. EE. FF.

PSL

PSL1-PSL4

PR

PR1

Pressure

2000-20000 PSI

Body

Carbon Steel,Alloy Steel,Stainless

Steel

Choke Head

Carbon Steel,Alloy Steel,Stainless

Steel+HF,

Stainless Steel+QBQ

Choke Threaded

Sleeve

Stainless Steel

Seat

Alloy Steel,Stainless Steel+HF

Alloy Steel,Stainless Steel+QBQ

Application

Oil, Chemical industry,etc.

Avaliable

Oil,Gas,Water,etc.


Q:Where is the PCV valve located on 2001 Nissan Altima
Pcv Valve Nissan Altima
Q:where is the heater control valve on a 1996 volkswagen passat
i'm no Ford fan, yet a Mondeo resources of a similar fee might want to be my determination. Neither Passat or A4 are fairly good, and service prices for VAG diesels are astronomical. once you're insistent on an A4 or a Passat, ?a million,00 is going to get you a finished smash till you're prepared to spend a lot of time being dissatisfied by utilising the final public of autos on the marketplace.
Q:Movers messed up the valve so hose won't screw in w/o leaking
Buy a new valve at an appliance parts outlet. Make sure it's the right one. Many times they will come with instructions. Unplug the unit. Shut off the water and remove the hoses. Remove the back panel to access the valve. Remove the old broke valve and replace it with the new one. Replace the panel. Attach the hoses and turn on the water. Check for leaks. Plug in the unit and give it a test. Try all the temperature settings. Congratulations. You are now a professional..
Q:Is there a more technically correct name for a valve that slowly opens, allowing increased pressure in a water line without blowing the end off?
I've always known them to be simply called motorized valves, but they aren't specifically made to prevent instantaneous pressure build up. They are usually installed as a convenience type of thing and in lieu of solenoid valve which WOULD be an almost immediate full pressure situation, but any valve other than a solenoid activated one will allow for slow build up of pressure. A motorized valve just lets you do it automatically and you don't have to be right at the valve location to open it. Al
Q:why is a biological valve replacement weak? in the way it does not last much longer that ten years?why do blood clots form with a mechanical valve replacement?what kind of bleeding problem can the anticoagulant medication cause?if you know the answer to any of these questions (doesnt hav to be all of them) plz answer!! thank you :p
Blood clots can form with ANY type of surgery or disease that interrupts the natural flow of blood. Anticoagulants do not cause a bleeding problem, they keep the blood from clotting if that is what you mean. People who take them have to have an INR checked (clotting time) to make sure that the blood is not too thin. It is a delicate balance. One must be careful on this medication when having any kind of surgery (usually have to stop the medication a week before and a stay off it a few days after according to their doctor's order) because it could cause them to hemorrhage.
Q:its rated 120 VAC/26VA (3 prongs, one for ground) . I also have a horizontal level switch for liquid with rating 120 VAC/0.28 A (the switch will connect when the water level reach the target) normally open.How can I wire them so that when the level reached the valve will close and water will not flow into the tank? The switch is inside the tank and the valve connecting the pipe for feed water. Thanks
considering your valve and turn is contained in the tank, why do no longer you in simple terms use a flow-activated valve and eliminate the electrical powered conclusion entirely? Why do you think of they use flow-valves in lavatories? because of the fact they do no longer consume any electrical energy and that they are undemanding units. considering you're no longer controlling a pump, why no longer in basic terms shop it undemanding?
Q:okay i have a 1990 plymouth laser. it runs very and the compression is good but it smokes. im thinking valve seals? Also i need to know the tool to remove the seals. Thanx
spring compressor is only special tool you need, can borrow one at autozone for free (you pay a deposit but get it back) but one question, does it smoke when you start it up then quit after a while? that is valve seals. If it smokes after warm up and when you accellerate its probably the wiper rings in the engine.
Q:Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!)
There is a very simple fix to your problem. Get some teflon tape, turn off the valve, back off the packing nut all the way, twirl the tape into a thread (about 4 to 5), wrap it around the stem, reinstall the nut and snug it up. Done! While there is special graphite packing for this purpose, it is usually hard to find and works no better than the tape. You can apply a small amount of vasaline to the stem before you put on the tape to make the valve operate more easily. Only tighten the nut enough to keep it from dripping or it may become hard to open and close. You can easily add a second valve by removing the pipe above the old one and installing a piece of copper with a valve inline. Some will say you need to worry about electrolysis if you screw an adapter into the existing galvanized but I am sure you will replace the old pipe before that is an issue 20 years from now. Good Luck!
Q:My third valve is always sticking, despite the fact that I oil them thoroughly every other day. It scrapes the sides of the case when I take it out/put it in, it's almost as if the valve is too big for it. Often times it will stick and I'll have to unscrew it and physically pull it out for it to be functional again.I've inspected it, and the inside looks just like the others which are fine. I've tried washing it, oiling it, and putting a trace amount of vaseline on it. What is the problem?
Check the spring and plastic valve guide on top of the spring. I've seen these stick and the results are quite annoying, but once the spring moves up and down freely, so will the valve.
Q:whats the location of the pcv valve on on a 2001 bmw 740il (e38)
In front of the engine slightly to the left and lower area of the throttle valve. It is a round black plastic canister supported by a teardrop shaped rubber with a cable connector at the top and 2 hose connections at the opposite end of the cable connector which are perpendicular to each other. BMW calls it the tank vent valve.

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