• 3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire System 1
  • 3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire System 2
3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire

3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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Specifications

Flat electric wire cable 
2 core + earth wire 
Sheath:PVC 
Conductor: pure copper 
Low price

Information

 

Applicationelectric wire

The electrical wire flat cable is suitable for power installation fixed wiring or flexible connection for electrical appliances with rated voltage up to and including 450/750V respectively.

We can supply this electrical wire flat cable according to different recognized standards, such as BS, IEC, ASTM, DIN, AS/NZS, and customers' special specification also can be satisfied.

Technical data

ModelName
BVCopper Core PVC insulation house wring electrical wire flat cable
BLVAluminum Core PVC insulation house wring electrical wire flat cable
BVRCopper Core PVC insulation flexible house wring electrical wire flat cable
BVVCopper Core PVC insulation PVC sheath round house wring electrical wire flat cable
BVVBCopper Core PVC insulation PVC sheath flat house wring electrical wire flat cable
BLVVBAluminum Core PVC insulation PVC sheath flat house wring electrical wire flat cable
BV-90Copper Core heat-resistance 105°C PVC insulation house wring electrical wire flat cable


Q:i want to connect another wire to it how do i do it?
need more info. Where, a car/ vehicle? an appliance? Wiring in the home? a project? Will come back periodically to check Wingman
Q:I am in need of electrical wire at the moment, and i found some old headphones. Would the wire be salvageable to transport small amounts of energy (in a basic device, nothing fancy)?
Well, yeah, a wire is a wire, usually anyways. As was said above, it depends on what you want to use it for. If you want to use it to power some kind of AC appliance, I'd say it's not a good idea as the insulation on the wire may not be able to handle the much higher voltage involved. And usually headphones use something like #26 wire which can't really handle much more than a few hundred milliamps of current before getting too hot. So yes, it's just a copper wire like almost any wire. But it has it's limitations of voltage and current carrying capacity. If you want to use it to power your toatser, no. If you want to use it to power a small motor with some D-cell batteries, no problem. Use it!
Q:Can you put electrical tape over wires that lost parts of the rubber covering them, that connect to the distributor??? or will the tape melt or something?
A set of new wires can be had for pocket change, pal. Tape wont do the job. P.S. YES. You need the boots to keep moisture from causing shorts and corroding the connections.
Q:Will the total electricity is 3000W, how much square copper to use, the calculation method is? The The The Thank you!
I know the trunk that is reserved. Treble also has reservations, no back door
Q:I want to upgrade from a 100amp service panel to 200 amp service panel, I am hiring an electrician, however i feel im being taken advantage of (im disabled), I would like to know how to find out what the load/rating is on the existing wires from the power hub accross the street to my electrical panel really are, the wires are underground and every bid I have gotten calls for the tar road to be cut up and entire new wires installed and I dont have that kind of money. Also since the house is NOT that old I dont think the wires need to be replaced. since some of my neighbors have upgraded w/o tearing up the road etc.
I'm not seeing that the conduit is rated for being buried. They make a cable that can be buried or exposed outdoors without leaking electricity. You're going to want to go 12 or 10 gauge wire because you may be running some pretty high drawing tools out there. The next question is where are you hooking it into? Is it the regular breaker box and if so, can it handle the additional amps that you'll be adding? I'm not saying you can't do this, but if you do it wrong, it could kill you. Not grounded, mixed up hot wire and neutral, improper ground, etc. If, if you decide to sell and it's not up to code for your area, you may have to bring it up to code and at that point, it may cost as much or more than the original instalation.
Q:Do I need to put the foam in the studs where the electrical wiring goes through? This is for Fire codes in MN
This is a Fire Code and not an Energy Code. Do not use foam. Use only fire caulk. Electrical wires can and do start fires. If any hole is left open in the plates the fire will travel up into the attic or next floor faster.
Q:I keep having a dream (at least once a week) where I'm working on electrical wiring in someone's house. I'm either wiring a circuit panel, pulling wire for a new circuit, etc. I'm 16 years old.
Electrical wiring would be a symbol of the way someone is wired. Whose house are you doing the wiring?
Q:I need to ground a wire to metal in my car. I just want to be sure that i can use electrical tape to hold the wire in place on the metal. I was told this would work but better be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance
No, it wont work. You need the bare wire conneted to the metal. The metal needs to be bare as well, no paint on it. At the very least you need to strip an inch or two of the wire, loosen up a screw that goes into metal floor, steering column, etc and wrap wire around screw and tighten screw back up with wire under it. Or do it the correct way of crimping or soldering on a ring term and putting ring under a screw
Q:Electrical wire sheathing should NOT project more than about 1 inch into the--plumbing line-floor joist-ground or -electric panel
I have a countertop gas range.on the underside of the range is an electric plug, that when plugged in provides the power to the pilot on the range. Question! is it safe to place an electrical outlet under the counter in order to plug in the power for the pilot, since there are gas connections near the proposed outlet? what does the code say?
Q:I have 4 consecutive 110v outlets that are only receiving 82v and the receptacles are not working. I tested them with a multimeter. I tested from both the receptacle and the wiring to the receptacle. What do i need to do to resolve this. The breaker isnt tripped, and the fuses are good. I have checked switches- to see if maybe one needs to remain on for the string of outlets to work, but there doesnt seem to be one tied into them. it is 4 outlets on one side of the living room. no gfi to reset. the house was built in the mid -90's. as far as i know-- there has been no hack job engineering done before i moved in. i bought the place from original owner, and they said its original wiring. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
You have a loose wire connection in the daisy chain wiring. Outlets are wired from one to the next. First identify which circuit breaker is feeding your problem circuit. Then after turing it off. Go around and see which other outlets are also being fed by that circuit (they will be the ones that are turned off). Make a note of it and then turn the breaker back on and find the one that is the last one working before the first problem outlet. Now turn the breaker back off and pull that outlet out of it's box and check the wiring in the back of the outlet. Usually this problem occurs when the electrician that was wiring the circuit used the stab-in-the-back connections. The barbed prong that digs into the wire sometimes works loose. then makes a intermittent connection. You're getting 82 volts because the power is back-feeding back through to the loose connection. Anyway keep checking the back of each outlet that is in the bad circuit until your find the loose connection and can repair it. OK, if this is too far over your comfort zone, have a qualified electrician come out and trouble shoot it.

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