Copper Core PVC Insulated and Sheathed Electric Wire

Copper Core PVC Insulated and Sheathed Electric Wire

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Quick Details

Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)
Type: InsulatedModel Number: BV BLV BVVB BVR RV RVB RVV
Application: Construction
Conductor Material: Copper Aluminum
Conductor Type: Solid
Insulation Material: PVC
Color: Red Black Blue Yellow
Certificate: IEC ASTM DIN BS
Credit: Sincere Service
Professional Technology: Competitive Price

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	Wooden drums or circles or as your request
Delivery Detail:	Half month or as your request

Specifications

1.We are Wire OEM
2.13 years professional experience
3.VDE UL Certificate
4.0.5--240mm2
5.Fast delivery

Copper Core PVC Insulated and Sheathed Electric Wire

1. Application
Copper Core PVC Insulation Power Wire is fit for ac rated voltage 450/750V

2. Working temperature
BV-105 model not more than 105 C, others not more than 75C installation temperature not lower than 0C.

3.Specification size and technological data

Type	Name	Laying place and requirement	Crated voltage	Nominal Section (mm2
227IEC01(BV)	Copper conductor PVC insulated wires Aluminum conductor PVC insulated wires	Fixed laid indoors Conduit etc.	450/750 300/500 450/750	1.5...185
227IEC05 (BV)				0.5...1
BLV				2.5...185
227IEC07(BV-90)	Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wire at 90 0C	Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors, conduits.	300/500	0.5...2.5
BVR	Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible cable	Be for laying permanent place where flexible required.	450/750	2.5...150
BLVV	Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires	Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place, can be laid in the air or underground.
BVVB	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires		300/500	1...10
BLVVB	Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires		300/500	2.5...10
227IEC02(RV) 227IEC06(RV)	Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector wire	Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required	450/750 300/500	1.5...240 0.3...1
227IEC42(RVB)	Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector wire		300/300	0.3...1.5
RVS	Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire		300/300	0.3...1.5
227IEC52(RVV) 227IEC53(RVV)	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector wire		300/300 300/500	0.5...6 0.3...4
227IEC08(RV-90)	Cu conductor heat resistant PVC insulated flexible connector wire at 90℃	Mainly used at the places where heat resistance is required	300/500	0.5...2.5

Q:I know that the color codes tell you whether its neutral and other purposes, but do i need to find the same colored wire to extend one, or do i need the same one? And are they just for safety purposes?: Colors are not universal. Generally, red and green are power wires, black and white are ground.but not always. Its mostly for safety or for ease of connecting wires. For example, instructions for wiring in something would be confusing as hell if there was no way to tell what wire does what. Most items will come with an manual that say what each colored wire is, and what it does, so you know how to wire everything up correctly. You do not need to use the same color, as long as you can keep everything straight so you do not hook things up wrong. However, you should use the same size of wire.

Q:I have 4 consecutive 110v outlets that are only receiving 82v and the receptacles are not working. I tested them with a multimeter. I tested from both the receptacle and the wiring to the receptacle. What do i need to do to resolve this. The breaker isnt tripped, and the fuses are good. I have checked switches- to see if maybe one needs to remain on for the string of outlets to work, but there doesnt seem to be one tied into them. it is 4 outlets on one side of the living room. no gfi to reset. the house was built in the mid -90's. as far as i know-- there has been no hack job engineering done before i moved in. i bought the place from original owner, and they said its original wiring. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated: Great answer from 'mermeliz'. Please reward it with 10 points. I agree with the probable culprit. Here is a method to find the problem. Not 100% guaranteed, but works almost all of the time. If it doesn't, you will be stuck opening each receptacle on the circuit until you find the problem. Turn on all of your non-working lights and plug lamps into any non-working receptacles. Make sure that any computers, or other sensitive electronics are not plugged into this circuit. Take a lamp or an extension cord around to the all of the receptacles on this circuit. DON'T rule out the working receptacles either. Try them too. Plug it in and wiggle the plug (hard enough to wiggle the receptacle too). You will probably find one where doing this suddenly causes your non-working lights/receptacles to come back to life. This will be your culprit. As 'mermeliz' correctly stated, a lot of homes are wired with receptacles using 'stab-in-the-back' connections. These are actually still in use and are deemed safe for installation. The problem is that they have a terrible failure rate. The term 'stab-in-the-back' also applies to what they do to you later. Any replacement should have screw terminal connections.

Q:How is the electrical wiring configuration for North America differs from that in Bratain/Western and Eastern Europe,Latin America Asia/Japan and Australia/Pacific?: The USA and most of North America uses 60 hertz and 120/240 volts. Most of the rest of the world uses 50 hertz and 240 volts. Small differences in voltage are common from place to place. Hertz or frequency might also vary a little.

Q:Do these wires provide warmth for the birds?: I think because their legs have a some charge which is opposing to the charge in the wire so there is some kind of attraction between them.And also they can look at prey as wires are located at great hight , birds can have a clear vision and can cover a large area.It can be either to take rest or to attend their natures call!

Q:I have an electrical box with 3 on off switches in it, 1 comes in from a ceiling light (it will be the only switch for it), the second will run to another separate ceiling light and also continue to another switch, and the third will run to an outlet which I want to be able to turn off and on with the switch for a table lamp.Starting at the power source coming into the box how should the rest be wired to work independentlyThanks: If it is 3 single pole switches all fed hot from that box then you would just pigtail 3 hot wires from your constant hot feed and go to all three switches and then each black wire from your lights will tie to the other lugs on your 3 switches. All whites tie together and wire nut and all grounds twist together and tie to the green lug on your switches.

Q:i have a ballast that says it needs two hot wires and a grounding wire. it says digital ballasts should never have a neutral wire. from what i understand, a standard american outlet contains 1hot 1neutral and 1grounding wire. do i have to rewire my outlet in order to use the ballast?: I wire ballasts almost everyday in the USA and other than 208V, 240V, and 480V ballasts they all have a neutral sometimes called the common conductor labeled (com)

Q:Ten five hundred twenty two, five five five four three circles, seeking to explain more specific meaning: Dedicated line is the dedicated line of electricity users. Is the user's own property rights, their own maintenance, while power supply has a high reliability. Non-green is relatively speaking, is hanging in a lot of users are using a bus on the same time. Non-green line is not caused by the substation, from the nearest capacity to meet the needs of the 10KV line attracted.

Q:Can I run a ground wire from and electrical motor to a bolt that is screwed into wood? Will this work? I have a hot tub and replaced the motor, the new motor has the thick copper ground wire mounted on the back so the wire I have is too short now to reach to where it was grounded before. I ran the wire from the motor to a bolt that is screwed into the wood frame of the hot tub. The old ground went from the motor to the metal brain box witch is also attached to wood so I figured my alternative fix is OK?: To be effective and prevent the person using the whirlpool hot tub being electrocuted from a wiring fault, the grounding cable needs to be connected from the tub power switch right back to the ground busbar in the electrical distribution box - and extended by use of screwed connections that can't come loose wood can shrink /expand not to code. It's no use connection to a water pipe and hope it makes a good electrical path back to the electrical distribution board as plastic pipes could be used to repair copper ones and the conduction path is lost. The usa NEC codes demand a separate ground cable is installed as many water pipes are plastic non conductive. Alternatively install a GFCI unit (still requires a ground cable) for 30 mA ground fault leakage protection. Note for uk readers this is called an RCD in uk and obligatory in uk bathroom electrical installation.

Q:anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?: the green is the ground , the smooth one is the black, the one with the ridges runing down the length is the white. use wire nuts unless you like fire

Q:Car has electrical smell like when electrical wires burn or something electrical is hot. similar smell as when one of the wall plugs in my house burned up.Smell is inside car while driving. does not smell under hood. noticed it SLIGHTLY about a week ago. Then again, very noticeably yesterday.Headlight blew 2 weeks ago and other headlight blew 1 week ago, i replaced them. I had replaced these less than a year ago. For the past week the passenger window has not worked up or down and there was some clicking noises in that door.: Take it to the garage to get it checked because if you have kids it is better for safety. My friends mum had a simular problem then smoke came out of her car and it set on fire.

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