Radiative Heater

Hot Products

Spiral plate heat exchanger（Detachable）

pre-heater

condensing apparatus

The spiral plate heat exchanger (Non-detachable)

Spiral plate heat exchanger（Non-Detachable）

Re-boiler

FAQ

I called a company to come out and check my furnace in a home that I am renting to a young man. Once there, they told the renter that it may possibly be leaking carbon monoxide so they told the renter that they would be willing to finance a new furnace because the old one had to go. He said yes and explained that he was not the homeowner but they went ahead and financed him with the gas company and went ahead and put in a new furnace. The next day, they told him the gas company could not approve it because he was not the owner of the home and that the owner would have to finance the furnace, but I am not willing to do that when they should have gotten my permission in the first place. They are wanting him to now pay cash(or credit cards) for the unit but he does not have that kind of money and is willing to pay installments of $50/month which he was apprvd for. Maybe they should come get theirs and bring the old back, but I know it is damaged. What can i/he do?

First of all, no reputable heating company would install new equipment without giving an estimate at the very least to the owner never mind getting a OK from the owner to do the installation job. Excuse me, but just because this company said you had a cracked heat exchanger doesn't necessarily mean you had a crack. There are alot of companies that would rather sell you a new furnace instead of repairing the one you have. I'm sure if you would have been shown the damage (crack in heat exchanger you would have been more than willing to fix it for your renters safety. Also most heat exchangers come with at least a 5, 10, 20 or lifetime warranty. Did the heating company check the manufactures date on the heat exchanger. It could still have been under warranty and therefore you would only have to pay the labor charge for installing the heat exchanger. In any case you should not be held resposible for the cost of the new furnace. Im sorry, but it sounds like you just got took. If in doubt of any heating companies diagnosis you can always get a second opinion from another company. I wish you good luck.

In a heat exchanger the inlet and exit temperatures for the cold fluid are 20 C and 55 C respectively; and these temperatures for the hot fluid are 90 C and 65 C. The correction factor of the heat exchanger (F) at this operating condition has been calculated to be 0.85. Which one is the correct answer for the LMTD of this heat exchanger?Answer A.26.2 °C B.33.8 °C C.36.3 °C D.30.8 °C

LMTD = F * [{(Tin - tin) - (Tout - tout)} / ln {(Tin - tin)/(Tout - tout)} LMTD = 0.85* [{(90-20) - (65-55)} / ln {(90-20)/(65-55)} = 26.2

when in auto it blows at about 50% when it is not suppose to be on when switched to on it blows harder.

Is it actually blowing or just making a sound like it is? The way a heater works, it warms the air first, then the blower blows the heated air through the vents. The sound you are hearing is most likely the warming process. It's not like A/C where you have instant cold, it takes a little time.

Describe how you might recover heat from a) a process exhaust gas stream [e.g. from an oven] and,b) a process warm water stream [e.g. from a commercial dishwasher].Discuss any aspects of the streams that may influence your choice of heat recovery system.Need some help / hint etc... Thanks :)

In both cases, you could cool the exhaust gas or the warm water by running it thru a heat exchanger. This would extract the heat (or some of it) and would heat up something else. In the case of the oven, you could use this reclaimed heat to preheat the air feeding the combustion if it is a gas oven or you could use it to preheat the material going into the oven. You could use the reclaimed heat to preheat the water that goes into the water heater that supplies hot water to the dishwasher. There is technology for converting heat directly into electricity (thermo-electric materials) but these material are pretty expensive and not very efficient. Depending on the temperatures involved, you could boil water to make steam and generate electricity. Factors to consider: the temperature, the specific heat of the material, any potential phase changes (boiling or condensation or freezing or melting), any potential hazardous, toxic, or corrosive materials, the cost

This house has just been remolded. Has a new furnace and has been plumed for AC

You can, of course get central air to hook right into that new furnace. Probably should have just gotten a heat exchanger and it would have provided both heat and AC and would have been perhaps a cheaper way to go. another thing you could consider since the house is so small, would be to add window or wall AC units. I cool my mobile home in FL with wall units. It is cheaper to run and they are cheap. I just bought a 12000 BTU unit for $188 and it has an energy rebate on it. The installation is the more expensive part so if you can install it that is great. One of those might do it, but you could get 2 and put one in living room and one in master bedroom. If you are in a cold climate, you may want to put a cover over them in the winter. In the south, you may use them in part of the winter. Even 8000 BTU should cover a 12 x 12 ft or so room. One I got was a Sharp and i got it from Brands mart (don't know if they are out of FL or not). You could probably get by with a 1 ton unit on central air, not more than 1.5 ton with a house that small. Check several places, including where you got your furnace. Usually there will be a compressor unit outside and a blower unit attached to the furnace itself. Good luck to you. You are going to have to callfor estimates anyway, so why not just make some calls to get estimates and then you would decide on how big a unit you need and your inquiries would be comparing apples to apples.

What is a heat exchanger?

Zhengzhou University of Technology successfully developed polytetrafluoroethylene (referred to as F-4) tube plate pressure limiting pressure heating welding "process to solve the fluorine plastic pipe and tube plate connected to the key technology.Then, various types of domestic heat exchanger

I have a 3 ton central heat/air unit. It has a part outside the house and a part inside the house that looks like an A. For 3 days now the heater hasn't blown. It gets warm at the inside part and the blower works on AC and when I switch it to ON. The blower doesn't work on HEAT and automatic setting. My dad was going to try installing a new thermostat today but it suddenly started working again. What could be going on? It's been really cold. Could the outside part (box the blows air out when it's running) freeze or something? I'm glad it's working now but I want it to keep working. What could be the trouble and how could I fix it? I'm on a fixed income so calling a repairman should be my last option.

Yep, the problem is most commonly at the valves. First try to bleed the system of any trapped air by openning the valves. If this doesn't work, then flush the radiators and see if that helps. However, if these things fail, the pipes are probably clogged at the valves. It may be that you can re-plumb the and clear the stopped valve to get the down-line radiators operational. However, due to the age of the system, it is likely that they all have some significant degree of blockage. If it were me, and if the lower level is working, I'd re-pipe the whole upstairs to start. When you say 'conventional pipe', is it galvanized steel pipe or copper? Galvi, which was commonly used, rusts from the inside out and over a period of years, slowly strangles the pipes flow. Galvi is now considered an inferior material for plumbing, except for venting purposes. Consider, if you are dealing with Galvi and disconnect the pipe in question, it could be so badly rusted that it may crumble. You may not find enough good pipe to couple a quick fix repair. At minimum, be prepared to re-pipe the length between that good bathroom to the next radiator. Replace Galvi with copper. If it's more than you are comfortable with, then hire a licensed plumbing contractor for that bath to bedroom part of the job. Watch the plumber do the work, then maybe you can by the materials and do the rest yourself, especially if you have wrenches and can solder. The materials won't be too expensive, but the plumbers labor and profit margin on a complete re-pipe will not be cheap.

A fluid enters a heat exchanger at 10 degC, exits at 60 degC and then enters another heat exchanger and leaves at 90 degC. Assuming there is no phase change, the mass remains the same and there are no thermal losses, if densities of the individual streams are given, is the mean density simply the sum of the three values divided by three?

Mean density, in my opinion, would be the fluid density evaluated at 50 C. This is the average of the fluid's inlet temperature and exit temperature. The average or mean density can be calculated as you suggest. It makes very little or no difference how the average fluid density is calculated.