Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil consists of two layers of aluminum foil with plastic bubble laminated between the aluminum foil,provides excellent insulation: Reflects up to 97% of radiant energy in addition to resisting other types of heat transfer from conduction, convection and radiation. The two side aluminum foil forms an effective barrier against moisture, air currents and vapors.

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil is an economical solution for a wide range of industrial, manufacturing and consumer applications.

2.Main Features of the Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil：

Bubble Foil Heat Insulation

Excellent insulation

Industrial Furnace and Special Equipment heat insulation

Good Quality

Competitive Price

3. Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Images

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

4.Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Specification

Product name	Bubble foil heat insulation material
Material Structure	AL+Bubble+AL	AL+Woven Cloth+Bubble + Colored Foil	AL+ Woven Cloth + Bubble + Woven Cloth+AL
Material Structure	AL+Bubble+AL	AL+Woven Cloth+Bubble + Colored Foil	AL+ Woven Cloth + Bubble + Woven Cloth+AL
Bubble Size(Diameter*Heihht)	10mm*4mm	20mm* 7mm	20mm*7mm
Bubble Weight	0.13kg/m2	0.3kg/m2	0.3kg/m2
Roll Width	1.2 m (customized)	1.2 m (customized)	1.2 m (customized)
Thickness	3.5mm	6.5mm	6.5mm
Weight	256 g/m2	425 g/m2	500 g/m2
Emissivity	0.03-0.04 COEF	0.03-0.04 COEF	0.03-0.04 COEF
Thermal Conductivity	0.034W/Mº	0.032W/Mº	0.032W/Mº
Apparent Density	85 kg/m3	70.7 kg/m3	83 kg/m3
Reflectivity	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%
Water Vapour Transmission	0.013 g/m2Kpa	0.012 g/m2Kpa	0.012 g/m2Kpa
Corrosion	Doesn't generate	Doesn't generate	Doesn't generate
Tensile Strength(MD)	16.98 Mpa	16.85 Mpa	35.87 Mpa
Tensile Strength(TD)	16.5 Mpa	15.19 Mpa	28.02 Mpa

5.FAQ

①Are you a manufacturer or just a trader？

We are a professional manufacturer.

②How about the quality？

The quality is very good. We have large and advanced product line.welcome to visit our company.

③How about the delivery time?

We will delievry soon once we receive your deposit.

Q:I am building a porch roof over an existing patio. The rafters are fabricated I-beams. I plan on putting aluminum soffit under the I-beams. On top of the roof I would like to put down a metal roof. I already put down 3/4&quot; OSB and a rain/ice barrier. Do I need insulation and/or ventilation on top of the rain and ice barrier, or can I get away without it?: the ribs in the metal roof will ventilate it - insulation is only necessary if you plan to heat it

Q:Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?: You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.

Q:What is the difference between roof and loft insulations?: Potentially that the roof itself is insulated on the underside. A loft insulation could be that the base or floor of the loft/ attic is insulated. Otherwise, I'm not sure.

Q:i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?: Yes, but not as well. the air trapped inside it works as an insulator as much as the fill itself. The weight of insulation on top of it will take away some insulating properties, but it's replaced by the insulating properties of the new insulation, so it's a net gain.

Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like &quot;crawl in&quot;) attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.: The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.

Q:hot because of all the added insulation. Is that what the insulation will do? Someone told me that it will save us on our cooling/heating bills, and that it will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer now. Is this true?: Insulation stops heat from being transferred across it. Therefore, if it's cold outside and warm inside, it will stay warm inside because the heat can't get out. Likewise, if it's hot outside and cool inside, the heat can't get in so it stays cool inside. The exact same principles are used in vacuum flasks that keep coffee or soup hot. If you put cold drinks in there, they will stay cold instead, even on a hot day. The principle used in both cases is to stop heat from being able to travel to or from the inside to the outside. In a vacuum flask, they achieve this by using a double walled flask and sucking out all the air (leaving a vacuum). In a house however, it's not practical to do this (except for windows which is how double glazing works) so they use some sort of substance that traps large amounts of air in it (like fibreglass or polyester batts) to achieve the same effect. Hope this helps. TV

Q:were can i buy material to insulate pans and instructions to install it? I have seen many roofs with this done ,but , the lowe,s and home depots don't have .: metal pan usually refers to a pan that concrete is then poured into. If there is no concrete in it (and a flat membrane roof over that) then its called currogated metal roof. Either way they look the same. Hard to insulate cause they are not meant to insulate. there are some sold with insulation already attached - its a thin floam layer - thats a newer thing but not sure how new. heard of some mobile home mfgs and storage building builders using spray on insulation under the panels. As for aftermarket on insulating- you may be able to have spray on insulation applied from under neath - if the space is open and accessible. it looks and feels like foam, can get a bit messy , but maybe do-able depnding on your application. If its not a open space with maybe drywall under it - you might think about opening up the space in the ceiling and having blown in insulation done (much cheaper then sprayed on). Blown in will insulate just fine but someone would have to look at your application and area cause in some instances - blown in insulation can be bad for high moisture situations. also- if this happens to be in a house - by adding insulation to steel - you might be breaking fire code - something to keep in mind for safety.

Q:Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it &quot;looks&quot; great: Don't trust anything. if there were mold tests done, make sure you see the paperwork on it and note the dates. This is a serious issue and should not be taken for granted. I'd definitely get a home inspection on your own also since so much work was done and you want to make sure it was done properly. Don't judge a book by its cover. Get all the answers you need now so you don't have to worry or deal with things down the road. The costs could sky rocket if there are still issues. Get the facts now, you'll sleep better later.

Q:We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.: they sell insulation at the home improvement stores. if you have tried that type then you will need to call a proffessional to insulate with fiberglass and wrap with tin protective cover. depends how cold it gets you may have to use heat tape also.

Q:The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time: I was an insulation installer for a time and this is what we did. We never took out old insulation; this is even when we blew it into the walls. We used cellulose wood fiber aka recycled paper preferable news paper and phone books. After the stuff was ground up Borax and Boric acid was added to make it fire proof. This stuff was blown in on top of the old stuff, usually 6 to 8 inches. All you do is have one person in the attic who sits down, with a hose in hand you plow it in and take measurement as you move along to be sure it is the thickness you want. Try to keep it even and smooth (like icing a cake). The other person stands next to the blower, which is place outside our in the garage (ours was in the back of a truck). This person must keep the hopper full and walk from the blower to the attic to physically look at you for safety reasons. Both must were face mask over your mouth and nose, you may want to wear goggles as well. I didn’t like goggles because they fogged up. Before you start work out emergency calls and other communication. We did this by turning the blower on and off with the remote switch (which you must have in the attic). If you take the square footage of your attic to the store the sales person can tell you how much you need. This info use to be on the back of the bag and it is easy to do. Make sure you have the correct number of roof vent for the square footage of your space. Have a fun time doing it and it will be over in no time! The blowers may have the formula to figure how much you can do per square foot per hour. This will let you budget your time better, remember that formula is usually how much can be blown per hour; the other task will eat into that time frame. To do the side walls is a bit more involved, but if you need help with that as well I would be glad to tell you the details.

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