Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil consists of two layers of aluminum foil with plastic bubble laminated between the aluminum foil,provides excellent insulation: Reflects up to 97% of radiant energy in addition to resisting other types of heat transfer from conduction, convection and radiation. The two side aluminum foil forms an effective barrier against moisture, air currents and vapors.

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil is an economical solution for a wide range of industrial, manufacturing and consumer applications.

2.Main Features of the Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil：

Bubble Foil Heat Insulation

Excellent insulation

Industrial Furnace and Special Equipment heat insulation

Good Quality

Competitive Price

3. Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Images

Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil and House warp Insulation

4.Roofing Sarking Insulation Aluminum foil Specification

Product name	Bubble foil heat insulation material
Material Structure	AL+Bubble+AL	AL+Woven Cloth+Bubble + Colored Foil	AL+ Woven Cloth + Bubble + Woven Cloth+AL
Material Structure	AL+Bubble+AL	AL+Woven Cloth+Bubble + Colored Foil	AL+ Woven Cloth + Bubble + Woven Cloth+AL
Bubble Size(Diameter*Heihht)	10mm*4mm	20mm* 7mm	20mm*7mm
Bubble Weight	0.13kg/m2	0.3kg/m2	0.3kg/m2
Roll Width	1.2 m (customized)	1.2 m (customized)	1.2 m (customized)
Thickness	3.5mm	6.5mm	6.5mm
Weight	256 g/m2	425 g/m2	500 g/m2
Emissivity	0.03-0.04 COEF	0.03-0.04 COEF	0.03-0.04 COEF
Thermal Conductivity	0.034W/Mº	0.032W/Mº	0.032W/Mº
Apparent Density	85 kg/m3	70.7 kg/m3	83 kg/m3
Reflectivity	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%
Water Vapour Transmission	0.013 g/m2Kpa	0.012 g/m2Kpa	0.012 g/m2Kpa
Corrosion	Doesn't generate	Doesn't generate	Doesn't generate
Tensile Strength(MD)	16.98 Mpa	16.85 Mpa	35.87 Mpa
Tensile Strength(TD)	16.5 Mpa	15.19 Mpa	28.02 Mpa

5.FAQ

①Are you a manufacturer or just a trader？

We are a professional manufacturer.

②How about the quality？

The quality is very good. We have large and advanced product line.welcome to visit our company.

③How about the delivery time?

We will delievry soon once we receive your deposit.

Q: Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?: yea. it might cost you some to put it in but it will save you a lot in the future with heating and air conditioning bills

Q: or in queensland: Depends on whether you are employed or working contract. Currently it could be 18-25 per hr for employee or upto 40 per hr for contract depending on allowances and if you are providing your own vehicle or company vehicle. Then are you doing bats or anticon, it is usually charged on a sqm rate. Call some roofing companies or insulation companies and ask them what their rates are.

Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: take a cold shower as soon as you get home.

Q: if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?: That is very observant of you. Yes this could indicate that you are losing more heat than normal through your roof. Though, you do want to be careful in the placement of any new insulation, you will want to avoid any vents that are there for ventilation of heat and moisture in the summer and any recessed lighting fixtures as to not cause an overheating problem with them. This is a good investment and it will pay you back in heating and cooling cost for years to come.

Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.: The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints

Q: I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.: James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.

Q: i live in a tropical country and i need to insulate my roof to block off the heat from the sun...which insulation would best help me? aluminum foil with foam, real foil with foam or PE with foam? pls help...thank u so much!: Use HDPE foam (high density polyethylene) - possibly with a layer of aluminum foil sandwiched in between. It's also waterproof (polystyrene isn't).

Q: Have a patio with metal roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks: Probably could, but it would look like crap. Painting the roof white would do a better job of keeping the metal cooler. I'd install a ceiling fan in the center of the roof instead to force the hot air out.

Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

Q: i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?: Yes, but not as well. the air trapped inside it works as an insulator as much as the fill itself. The weight of insulation on top of it will take away some insulating properties, but it's replaced by the insulating properties of the new insulation, so it's a net gain.

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