Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil-Hot Selling

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China main port
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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1. Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Description

With GI as base material, after pretreatment (degrease and chemical treatment ) and liquid dope with several layers of color, then after firing and cooling, finally the plate steel is called pre-painted galvanized (aluzinc) steel. Pre-painted galvanized steel is good capable of decoration, molding, corrosion resistance. It generally displays superior workability, durability and weather resistance.

2.Main Features of the Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability

• Excellent heat resistance performance

• High strength

• Good formability

• Good visual effect

3.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Images

Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil-Hot Selling

Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil-Hot Selling

Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil-Hot Selling

4.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Specification

Standard: AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS

Grade: DX51D, DX52D

Thickness: 0.17-2.0mm

Brand Name: KMRLON

Model Number: coil

Type: Steel Coil

Technique: Cold Rolled

Surface Treatment: Coated

Application: Boiler Plate

Special Use: High-strength Steel Plate

Width: 20-1250mm

Length: customized

commoidty: pre-painted galvanized steel coil

Thickness: 0.13-4.0mm

width: 20-1250mm

zinc coating: 40-180g/m2

printing thickness: top side: 20+/-5 microns, back side: 5-7 microns

color: all RAL color

surface treatment: color coated

coil weight: 4-7 tons

coil ID: 508/610mm

packaging: standard seaworthy packing

5.FAQ of Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

1. What’s the application of this product?

Roof, roof structure, surface sheet of balcony, frame of window, etc.

2. What’s the brand of the paint?

We use the best brand of all of the word—AKZO.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

4. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-25 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.

 

 

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Q:Will this temperature affect the strength of steel component parts during the galvanizing process?
Steel is heat treated for some applications such as bearings, drill bits and cutting tools. Hot galvanizing occurs at 860F (when zinc is molten). Tool steels are likely to lose temper and hardness at this temperature. Common steels wouldn't be affected.
Q:STAINLESS STELL AND MS STEEL MATERIAL WELDING POSSIBLE OR NOT?
Welding austenitic stainless steels to carbon and low alloy steels are established methods in the process and construction industries. Dissimilar metal welds involving stainless steels can be done using most full fusion weld methods, including TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) and MIG (Metal Inert Gas). Weld procedures using filler (consumable) enable better control of joint corrosion resistance and mechanical properties. In selecting the weld filler, the joint is considered as being stainless, rather than the carbon steel. Over-alloyed fillers are used to avoid dilution of the alloying elements in the fusion zone of the parent stainless steel.
Q:Melting steel????
There are different types of steel. Melting point of steel depends upon its contents. Generally the melting point of stell is above 1500 c.
Q:Ways to damage steel?
Your best bet would be a grinding wheel attached to a small electric motor. Even if you slipped, your skin is too soft to be cut by the dull wheel. Steel, however, is easily cut. But perhaps you don't have access to electricity or pressurized air to run such a tool. In that case, a simple file would work well, though you'd be somewhat more likely to injure yourself. If you had no tools, but access to whatever chemicals you wanted, you could try a weak acid. This would take a long time, and require constant scrubbing to bring fresh acid into the pits in the metal, but it would eventually eat through the collar.
Q:223 steel cased ammo?
Some have said that steel cases (Russian?) will wear out the extractor prematurely, others have said they have shot thousands of rounds of these with no problems.
Q:Steel Strings or Nylons?
I love steel strings on MY guitar because the brand of strings and the type of guitar I have makes the strings softer on my fingers than other people's Steel Stringed guitars. Nylon sounds weird to me.
Q:How to sharpen a knife with the stone and the steel?
The site listed above gives you a great step by step procedure on how to do this yourself. A Sharpening Steel is used to sharpen the fine edge of a knife. Many knives only need this done to have a refined edge. Any fine edge of a knife can have minor burrs that occur with normal use. To sharpen this type of edge, merely run the knife at an approximate 7-8 degree angle, away from yourself on the Sharpening steel repeatedly (no more than about 8-10 times each side, alternating each side as you go). Give the knife a quick wash, to remove any unwanted detritus, and you are ready to go. If you want to resharpen an entire knife, use a wet stone. Remember some stones have a natural oil in it, some do not. If you are already using a stone with oil, continue to use it with Mineral Oil as the lubricant. If it is a dry stone, use warm water. You'll never be able to change a stone once you use oil. Make sure its as flat as you can. Wet it with warm water, or the mineral oil, rub the knife away from yourself (on the coarse side) at a 5 degree angle on both sides. Alternating sides approximately 20-30 times each. Flip the stone over (dry finer side), and at a 6 degree angle, rub the knife blade toward you on both sides approximately 10 times on each side. Using either your Sharpening steel, or 550-600 coarse emory paper, rub the knife away from you 5-7 alternating times on each side at about a 7-8 degree angle. Clean the knife well. You now have a VERY sharp knife that will require this entire treatment ony 2-4 times a year at most. Otherwise, keep using the sharpening steel. I GUARANTEE this works best.
Q:What's better: Steel or Alloy bike wheels?
I am a major advocate for steel in bicycle construction, except when it comes to rims. If you are using cantilever or caliper brakes, steel rims are a major no-no, as any moisture greatly reduces your stopping power, practically rendering your brakes useless. Sure, bright chrome rims definitely look nice, but their useful application is extremely limited, and mainly consigned to accurate restorations of antique bikes. If you really want to use chrome steel rims on a bike, make sure you have either disc brakes, drum brakes, or a coaster brake. Aluminum rims have been in use for about 100 years now, and for good reason.
Q:how can you temper steel?
You can't temper all steels. Generally the material must be a high-carbon or tool steel. Different alloys temper differently, and tempering is usually done to get a specific set of characteristics, so you must know what you are working with and use the right methods and temperature. If you do it wrong, the material may be hard but too brittle for the purpose or have other issues. It can be simple, such as heating to a dull red, carbonizing the surface (use an acetylene rich flame until it blackens the surface) and oil quenching. Do that to a piece of tool steel (like a screwdriver) and it will case (surface) harden it to the point you can't scratch it with a file. Tempering changes the way the molecular structure in the metal is linked and oriented.
Q:I am getting a benchmade mpr (m390 steel) and am unsure if it is a good knife look at the chart below?
From what I understand m390 is a new steel (at least for benchmade) so there doesn't seem to be a consensus on how it performs. Looking at the table, it should be very corrosion resistant. I'd guess it could be classified as a stainless steel. Sorry I don't have more info for you. EDIT: here's a link from the steel manufacturer. I hope this info helps.

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