• Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-Q36602 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-Q36602 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-Q36602

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-Q36602

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month
Option:
600x600 mm

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Item specifice

Polished Porcelain Tile:
Polished Porcelain Tile

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Floor Tile is wildly used all over the world. CMAX-Q36602 is one of the most popular color of Tulip Stone Serie, which is one quite new and popular serie of Polished Porcelain Tile and have been shipped to many countries. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Floor Tile, Double Loading

  Grade AAA quality level

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Packing Standard: Pater Carton+ Solid Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery: 3 weeks after the receipt of the deposit or order confirmation

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 87 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-Q36602

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-Q36602

                                              

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

        4.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

        —— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

        5.   Could you company supply glazed porcelain tile?

        —— Yes. We could supply various kinds of glazed porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 30*60, and 30*30. 

 

         6.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

         —— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

 

Q:I am going to be removing ceramic tile in my kitchen and was wondering what the easiest way to go about it was? I was going to use a hammer and a flat ended screw driver, what do you think?
Removing them will be hard and dusty work so be prepared for both. How you remove them depends on the substrate below them. If they are on cement slab, then a large chisel and hammer can be used to take off the tile. Then you must scrape off the thin set used to hold it down If your tiles are on a cement board or added wood substrate , then a crow bar ( or 2) and an extra body is recommended to get under that and pry it up and take it all up at once. The tile will pop and come up as you get the subflooring up. You can rent electric ( small hand held ) hammers w/ a chisel on the end but I ve had better luck and am faster with a hand held 3# hammer.. The dust will be bad either way so block off door ways to prevent dust in the whole house. Dust mask, ear, eye protection is a must. Along with long sleeved shirt and gloves.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. I ve done this to many times over the years so I know. GL
Q:I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
Its best to have the floor go under the vanity, and never tile around a toilet it will look terrible.. 1. Remove toilet by turning off water valve, disconnecting supply line and unscrewing flange bolts. 2. Remove vanity by turning off water valves, disconnecting supply lines and drain. This can be done with a channel lock wrench. Then unscrew any screws that are holding it into wall. 3. Tile the floor. As for the closet flange for the toilet, ideally you want it on top of your floor. You may be able to unscrew it and raise it up a half inch or so. If not, tile around it and use a double wax ring when you reset the toilet. 4. Reset vanity and reconnect supply and drain lines
Q:More specifically, do you lay the tile right against the floorboard with no groat visible? Or would you put a spacer in between the floorboard and the tile so that it you have grout along the edge?
put skirting boards to the floor. Batten the wall half a tile up from the skirting start laying your tiles upwards from the batten when you`ve placed all your tiles let them set, now cut your tiles from the bottom of the tile to the skirting. Thats how we would do it anyway.
Q:What is the basic role of tile glue?
The basic role is clearly posted more solid brick can not afford to brick Baidu experience - tile adhesive construction method
Q:I want to install tile over laminate. How do I do this?
You have to remove all the laminates, clean and cement render your floor before installing the tiles. Normally, there are a layer of polyurethane and sponge under the laminate. Check and see. Installing tiles over your laminate floor would cause your tiles to crack at the joint/ edge as the laminate will tend to sag.
Q:I need to take a tile that is on the wall under my bathroom sink cabinet to use it to replace some visible tiles. I know it‘s possible to remove the old damaged tiles, but obviously I don‘t want to damage the ones that I‘m going to use to replace the bad ones.
it can be done by using a thin chisel or even an wallpaper scraper pushed behind each tile to break the adhesive seal. much will depend on the amount of adhesion and if the wall plaster is sound etc or the tiles are strong or thin weak and brittle. only by trail and error will you find out but there normally i find unless the tile is particularly well stuck to a wall it will in fact pry of easily and in fact you have to be ready to 'catch' it before it falls and shatters. watch out for broken tiles as the edges are extremely sharp .
Q:We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?
I am just real curious how you are going to hold the new backing in place. If you have that figured out I would suggest cement board. Sheet rock won't last and green board is little better. Use a clear sealent from the old to the new. (If you leave a little space - 1/8 inch or so, you can squeeze the sealent in.) Make sure non of the sealent is on the surface of either backer. Let it set for 48 hours. Tile and grout. My mother's folks all did tile work for a living. They would tell you to take the tile down for the entire wall and start over. In the long run, that is probably the best thing to do. Steven's answer was posted while I was writing. His recommendation and suggestions make great sense.
Q:My house decoration, the decoration division to pay in the cut tiles, the whole piece of tiles cut on both sides, the rest of the total when the waste thrown. He said it was not straight. Do not you know that you have encountered such a situation? Did he make sense? Is there any way to prove that his operation is in question? Thank you al
in fact, the general brick is no problem, I guess or the master Technical problems, looking for businesses to, in fact, let the business to illustrate the problem, but also to avoid the contradiction between you and the master out.
Q:We bought a house that has a fully covered sunroom with large glass windows and metal framing. Right now i have ugly green caret in there, but i want tiles. Can i tile over a flat cement surface. What tiles do i use porcelan or ceramic? It gets below freezing in the winter time(NE Ohio) and i want to make sure that it could withstand some water.
Consider ceramic and porcelain tiles – both are excellent, time-honored flooring materials. They are very strong, extremely durable, and highly resistant to stains.There really isn't much difference between porcelain and ceramic now In general a cement or concrete subfloor is the best surface for installing ceramic tile. However, the concrete floor needs to be flat and level and free from any type of chemicals that could prevent a proper bonding between the ceramic tile and the concrete surface. Also, if the concrete floor is new, the installation of ceramic tile should be delayed for 1 month to allow full curing of the concrete for other information you can check my source site
Q:is there any benifits to having the tiled ceilings? please answer ASAP
It's so they can easily get into the ceiling and do repairs/alterations to the electrical wiring and/or plumbing.

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