Low Smoke Zero Halogen Flame Retardant Fire Flame Retardant

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
10000 m/month

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Product Description:

Main Specification

Low smoke zero halogen flame retardant fire-resistant cable is in aluminium alloy with chain armoring process finished, familiar with low smoke zero halogen performance of insulation and sheath material and production process on the basis of complete.Independent research and development of organic low smoke zero halogen flame retardant, join the silane crosslinked polyethylene insulation material, greatly superior to the traditional inorganic flame retardants, excellent electrical performance and anti-aging performance, long service life, excellent flame retardant performance, can reach the level of low smoke zero halogen, more secure environment.1) rare earth high iron aluminum alloy conductor material, (2) refractory mica tape, (3) low smoke zero halogen flame retardant silane crosslinked polyethylene insulation, (4) glass fiber winding package, (5) aluminum alloy chain armor, 6 polyolefin sheath.


The main characteristics
DE son, independent research and development of organic low smoke zero halogen flame retardant, join the silane crosslinked polyethylene insulation material, greatly superior to the traditional inorganic flame retardants, excellent electrical performance and anti-aging performance, long service life, excellent flame retardant performance, can reach the level of low smoke zero halogen, more secure environment.1) rare earth high iron aluminum alloy conductor material, (2) refractory mica tape, (3) low smoke zero halogen flame retardant silane crosslinked polyethylene insulation, (4) glass fiber winding package, (5) aluminum alloy chain armor, 6 polyolefin sheath.


Flame retardant refractory Features

Pure aluminium core cable antiflaming fire-resistant level is very low, does not apply to involves the fire safety level of high places, and we design DE son of rare earth high iron aluminum alloy conductor, fire-resistant mica tape silane cross-linked polyethylene insulation, flame retardant, flame retardant glass fiber winding package within the zone, low smoke zero halogen flame retardant polyolefin sheath, aluminum alloy with chain armor, low smoke zero halogen flame retardant polyolefin sheath outside the structure of the aluminum alloy cable, can withstand under 750 ~ 800 ℃ for 40 min of flame retardant fire test, flame retardant grade IA, refractory grade I, can be applied to high level of fire safety.

 

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Q:How can I connect speakers with no power cable or headphone jack to TV?
You would need to buy an audio receiver to get your Sonys working with your TV. But between you and me, you could just use any old surround sound device to get your speakers going. Since your Sonys don't have power inputs. A receiver/surround sound would power them. Plug your speakers and TV to a receiver, then plug that receiver to a power outlet and your golden.
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you need to consider 2 things. 1. check the pin-out. the cable should match the connector on your mother board. 2. make sure you have atleast 600~750Watts power on the new power supply.
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There's no way of saying without further information. You need to know the amount of power provided by the UPS battery as well as the power drain by the cable modem and router to calculate this accurately. Generally speaking, a standard household model of cable modem and router do not pull a lot of power. Just ballparking it, since the power drain from both is fairly low...A UPS 750 will probably support the two devices together for about 45 minutes to nearly an hour...assuming NOTHING else is plugged into the UPS and using power from it. Be aware, however, that your local ISP will also be on backup or generator power...during an extended outage from a hurricane or serious snowstorm...sooner or later, they will go down too. .
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With most motherboards there is only one way to attach the power cable to the board, otherwise it just wont fit. I believe there is a little notch on the cable which should line up with the notch on the board
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The cables that go with monitors are generally pretty generic. I have piles of extra cables lying around myself, if I was in your position I'd probably walk about ten feet over that way and pull out the cables I need from there. The only thing that would worry me, in your position, is whether that monitor actually works at all. You wouldn't know until you plugged in the cables and tried it now would you. You can probably get whatever cables you need for next to nothing out of some local electronics junk shop, or from craigslist. People often just give away junk like that, just to get rid of it.
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In accordance with the requirements of the general requirements of the installation of the switch installation height is 1300mm, the socket is 300mm, air conditioning socket is 1800 ~ 2200mm; wall in accordance with the norms is not allowed to take the horizontal pipeline, so the conventional approach is vertical inside the floor of the pipe is near run.
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yea you need both, the data and the power cable. Power need to go to the hard drive via the power cable and the hard drive need to communicate with the motherboard via the data cable.
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You are taking a chance of burning up your PSU and your card. The card might perform ok under basic desktop situations, but when you try to game it is going to drain your PSU for all the power it can get and probally fry the +3Volt rail that the single molex connector is on that you pluged the PCIEx16 6pin pigtail up to. This might even cause a short of your motherboard and or ram on the motherboard, and could even lead to a frying of the CPU as well. Or maybe not, just a chance you are taking...
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Yj is cross-linked polyethylene insulation, v PVC sheathed 22 is double steel tape armored, voltage 10KV, 50 square three-core copper cable
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the connectors are color coded and monitor cables are usually blue so hook it up to the blue connector on the back of the computer.

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