• Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric System 1
  • Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric System 2
  • Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric System 3
Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric

Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
2000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric   


Introduction:

Aluminum Foil Thermal Reflective Silver Membrane is consist of aluminum foil lanimated with PP/PE non-woven fabric. It is wildely used on roofing and wall protection. it plays a significant role on heat insulation and vapor barrier. 


Speicifcation:

Name

Vapor Barrier Reflective   Membrane

Appearance

Sliver/Customized

Structure

Aluminum   Foil/PP or PE Non-woven Fabric

Width(cm)

80/100/120/125/150/160

Length(m)

50   to 2500

Unit   Weight

120g/m2

Tensile   Strength(MD)

200N/25mm

Tensile   Strength(CMD)

250N/25mm

Reflective

91%~92%

Treatment

FR/UV/VCI/Perforated   available


Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric


Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric

Heat Refletive Membrane with Aluminum Foil and Non-woven Fabric

FAQ:

1.       Where is your factory located in?

Factory is located in Jiangsu Province, Neat to Shanghai Port.

2.       How long have you been in this product production?

We have been in the business more than 10 years,

3.       Can we have some sample or trial order before bunk order?

Yes, we can provide you some free samples, and for trial order, we will offer you the lowest price. 


Q:do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?
Vapor barriers always go on the heated side of walls or ceilings. If you are going to add insulation to your attic and don't want to put in more blown in insulation ( which does have a better R-factor) then purchase unfaced fiberglass insulation to put on top of existing insulation. The thing you need to avoid is called double vapor barriers. Years ago when the first started playing with super insulated houses they would put a poly on the inside and outside of the walls. What happened is any moisture picked up in the walls going from summer to winter would get trapped in the walls and rot them out. No matter what only one vapor barrier on the heated side of the insulation!!! Then your house can breath and release moisture regardless how thick your walls or ceiling.
Q:attic insulation
Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
Q:I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3" and 4" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?
Use it as insulation in the basement. Place it under the floor along your rim joists above the foundation
Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?
Steel spreaders may be cheapest (as described in other answer) but many roofs have shingle nails sticking out,a couple dabs of caulking,glue,you're done! Be sure anything you use is compatible with your foam,some will just MELT it. Good Luck! DrJ
Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
Q:Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
Yes, it does. It also shows that you are not losing heat and that you are well insulated.
Q:this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
spray foam
Q:hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :)
I'm assuming that it's open at the ceiling.You could put in a drop ceiling to hold the heat further down.If it's damp you may want to make sure the area between the ceiling an roof are well ventilated.You could then place insulation on top of your drop ceiling so there's a barrier to hold down heat.
Q:does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
No. Ventilation prolongs the life of a roof. Ventilation also reduces the air conditioning bill by a huge amount. If you use a lot of AC, also add an automatic attic fan. As for insulation, the idea is to have a good R factor, relative to where you live, directly above the highest living space ceiling in the house
Q:I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
Blown in is easier, cheaper and can be a DIY project. Just make sure you don't block the soffitts that allow air to circulate.

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