Q:in a lab at school we did heat treatment of steelwhat are the possible phases present in the steel sample in as-received, as-quenched and as-tempered conditions? specifically when is it ferrite, austenite and pearliteis the steel originally in the ferrite phase? then when headed turns into austenite and when quenched martensite is formed and when tempered cermentite is formed...........where is pearlite involved and am i correct about the ferrite?

hey from what i learned in uni last sem, steel is originally ferrite form at first at room conditions. it will undergo poly morphic transformation to become FCC structure austenite form at 912 degree celcius. under conditions, it can become pearlite (which is a combination of ferrite and cementite) or bainitie( a finer form of pearlite). queching conditions to room temperature will form martensite which is the strongest but brittle steel form. tempered cementite is formed when we quench it and then raise temperatures before sir cooling. hope it helps, pls vote me best answer is i deserve it. thanks

Q:I know copper pots are supposed to be really good for cooking with, and I have been looking around online. One thing I don't want to do, however, is send them in to be re-lined with tin. So I was wondering if stainless steel lined copper pots work as well as the traditional tin lined ones, or if those make the copper just for looks.

Stainless steel is durable and does not disolve and make things taste funny. Stainless steel is not a good conductor of heat, so it has hot and cold spots. Copper is very good conductor. They noe bond copper to stainless steel to get the best features of each. Some pots just have a very thin copper plating to fool you. A good pot will be heavier, It is really hard to tell from looking.if it is plating or a bonded layer of copper. the thicker the better

Q:Do any tour players use steel shafted woods? And are there any real advantages to having steel shafted woods? I have only played with one person to use steel shafted woods, he tells me thats because he cant hit it straight with graphite, however he is a very short hitter.

Steel shafts will provide more accuracy, but they are much heavier than graphite (obviously). They have extremely low torque ratios which allows them to be more accurate. However, you need to have a very fast, controlled swing to be successful with steel shafted woods. Notice that only a few PGA Tour pros have them.

Q:Should I stick with the all steel kit over the acrylic tapers and steel plugs? or would the acrylic be ok? I keep hearing that steel is the best and acrylic can cause problems. I just want to do it correctly and take my time with it, no rushing.thanks

Steel is much better because acrylic can't be sterilized. If you have the option, titanium is much better because steel can cause nickle allergies, which can get pretty irritating.

Q:How are steel coils used in the manufacturing of fasteners?

Steel coils are commonly used in the manufacturing of fasteners because they provide a cost-effective and efficient way to produce large quantities of fasteners. The steel coils are unwound and then fed into machines that cut, shape, and thread the steel to create various types of fasteners such as screws, bolts, and nails. The high strength and durability of steel make it an ideal material for fasteners, ensuring secure and reliable connections in a wide range of applications.

Q:How are steel coils inspected for surface cleanliness using cleanliness tests?

Steel coils are inspected for surface cleanliness using cleanliness tests to ensure that they meet the required quality standards. These tests involve various methods to assess the presence of contaminants, such as dirt, oil, grease, rust, or scale, on the surface of the steel coils. One commonly used cleanliness test is the visual inspection, where trained inspectors visually examine the surface of the coils for any visible contaminants. They look for any signs of staining, discoloration, or foreign substances that may affect the quality of the steel. Another cleanliness test is the wipe test, where a clean cloth or wipe is used to wipe the surface of the steel coil. This cloth is then analyzed for the presence of contaminants using techniques like gravimetric analysis or solvent extraction. The amount of contaminants collected on the cloth can be measured, providing an indication of the cleanliness of the steel surface. Surface roughness tests are also performed to assess cleanliness. A roughness gauge is used to measure the roughness of the steel surface, which can indirectly indicate the presence of contaminants. If the surface roughness measurements are higher than the specified limits, it suggests the presence of contaminants affecting the cleanliness of the steel. In addition to these tests, cleanliness tests may also involve techniques like wetting tension measurement, water break test, or contact angle measurements. These tests evaluate the surface energy and wetting properties of the steel, which can be affected by the presence of contaminants. By conducting cleanliness tests, steel coils can be thoroughly inspected for surface cleanliness. These tests help in identifying any potential contaminants that may compromise the quality and performance of the steel. By ensuring the surface cleanliness of steel coils, manufacturers can provide high-quality products that meet the stringent requirements of various industries.

Q:How do steel coils impact the environment?

Steel coils can have both positive and negative impacts on the environment. On one hand, the production of steel coils requires significant amounts of energy and emits greenhouse gases, contributing to climate change. Additionally, the extraction of raw materials for steel production can lead to deforestation and habitat destruction. On the other hand, steel is highly recyclable, reducing the need for new steel production and saving energy and resources. Proper waste management and recycling practices can mitigate the negative environmental impacts of steel coils.

Q:steel of beam has been rusted ,how can i repair it?

The rust needs to be removed by what ever means works best for your situation.. Often a twisted wire wheel on a 4 1/2 angle grinder works quickly... a hand wire brush may work well for you, or just plain sandpaper and a LOT of elbow grease (hard work) will remove the rust. From there, a coat of primer paint made for steel. Any hardware store in your area would have such a primer, in quart cans or spray cans. Once that is dry (a good 24 hours for most formulations), you can spray or brush paint the beam most any color you wish.. I've had very good luck with acrylic enamel paints for such projects.. IF your steel is badly pitted, you should consider getting it inspected to insure it will still hold up or support what ever it was installed to do. If you want a smooth finish, once the rust removal is done, you can fill in the dips and pock marks with an auto body filler (Bondo is one brand name)... It comes in 2 parts (the main filler and a hardener) that are mixed well and used to fill in the holes and divits with a plastic spreader.. Once hard (in a few minutes with most brands of filler), sanding with sandpaper and a sanding block will smooth out the finish very nicely. From there, the same primer mentioned above and paint will finish up your project... Hope this helps some... Good Luck!

Q:What are the dimensions of steel coils used in the packaging industry?

The dimensions of steel coils utilized in the packaging industry are subject to variation in accordance with the specific application and requirements. However, the customary dimensions for steel coils employed in packaging encompass a thickness ranging from 0.15 mm to 3 mm and a width spanning from 600 mm to 2000 mm. The internal diameter of the coil, referred to as the core, generally measures around 508 mm (20 inches); however, alternative sizes such as 610 mm (24 inches) or 762 mm (30 inches) may also be utilized. The outer diameter of the coil may fluctuate contingent upon the weight and size of the coil, yet it commonly falls between 1000 mm and 2000 mm. It is crucial to emphasize that these dimensions can be tailored to accommodate the specific requirements and preferences of the packaging industry.

Q:I bought my Gerber Scout for 29 bucks at the local Walmart a couple months ago, and so far it's performed better than any of my previous knives (a couple of low quality Bucks, and a Winchester). However, my friend just bought a 50 dollar Buck knife and I absolutely love it, so I'm debating trading mine in and pitching in a bit of cash for the same kind.What troubles me is the fact that everybody seems to be bashing 440A steel. I hear a lot of bad things about it; how it is soft, chips easy, dull quickly, etc. How bad is 440A steel really, and would it be worth trading in my Gerber plus about 30 cash for a Buck Vantage Pro? Apparently the Vantage Pro uses S30V steel, so is it really that big of an upgrade, from 440A to S30V? Thank you.

440 steel is fine for most knives, but there are better quality steels out there for specialized uses. If you like the knife you have, don't worry about what other people say. If you like the new knife more, trade for it. Sometimes I question why people have to ask so many questions about what's better than what.