• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6005 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6005 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6005

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6005

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly popular in Europe, North America and Middle East, and ite could be used for interior floor and wall of Apartment, Villa as well asother areas, due to its unique antirue feel image and terure.The modle NO. CMAX-TS6005 is one of the popular designs in the present market.

 

Product Features

 

  Excelent glazed surface and porcelain tile body

   Grade AAA quality only

   The basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm based on the actual project needs.

  Strict quality control system on raw materials selection, kiln temperature, water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance .

  Compititive prices

  Packing standard: Pater Carton+ Solid Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service available

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006,EN14411.

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

  For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6005

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-TS6005

 

FAQ

 

1.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

         —— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

 

2.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.  

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

 

4.   Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

 

5.    Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

Q:How is the acceptance of tiles after construction?
Acceptance of several main parts: first within two meters of the error shall not be greater than 2mm, the joints should be neat, uniform size, no hollowing, not loose, with two meters long ruler or by the foot of acceptance. Second, you can use a small hammer in the ground or the walls of all the light tapping, no empty drums. Finally, pay attention to the drainage requirements of the floor tile slope should meet the drainage requirements, and ground leakage should be tightly integrated.
Q:want to tile counter top with out using hardboard
Can yes you can (can means able to). And you may do it as long as the subsurface of the counter where you place the tile on is solid and will not move (most counter tops have too much movement in them to keep the grout from cracking). You can check this by standing or sitting on the counter top and see if your weight makes even the slightest bow in the counter top. If you decide your counter top is strong and stable enough then make sure you sand (rough up) the Formica before you try to cover it with anything else. What you might consider doing is placing either 1/2 inch cement board or another layer of 3/4 birch plywood or MDF board screwed and glued down to the existing counter top. Tile is expensive so do it right.
Q:Remodeling the bathroom...How can i drill a hole in ceramic tile...What kind of drill would I use..or what kind of file would be best to make a hole in the tile to go around the shower faucet..Thanks for your input...
You can use a carbide hole cutter in an electric drill. Carbide hole cutters are like ordinary hole saws except the rim is carbide grit instead of teeth. You can get these an several different sizes so you should be able to find one the right size for your purpose. To start the drill, take a nail and hammer a small chip out of the glaze where you want the center of the hole to be, a light tap should do it, this will keep the bit from wandering over the surface and start the hole easier. If it is a wall tile it is probably fairly soft ceramic, not porcelain (which is usually used for floor tile), and it should not be too difficult to drill the hole once you get through the glaze.
Q:we are installing 2inch hexagonal tile on the shower floor. anyone have any special tricks to getting them lined up properly? the tile guys have put it down and a lot of the spaces between the tiles are uneven. keep in mind the shower floor slopes a little towards the drain
You have to glue them in net tape (special net for patching dry wall) In scale of 12x12 or 6x6 ,let them stick well then apply thin-set 1/8 thick in floor and install tiles set next to each other.To make them even, every three set tiles that been installed ,put pressure by one plywood or a level board on top .Let them dry for min 48 hours then make a liquorish grout and splash it in tiles then by a sponge or plastic mup(use for window cleaner) apply grout in all area till cap between tiles fill completely .After 2 hours clean extra grout on tile by a vet sponge or rug .let till grout dry as well (min 24hours) then apply grout sealant to get shiny and est able grout .Then you have it.
Q:tiles on back splash, work done in south florida, 4x4 inch tiles
Tile labor usually runs in the 3/5$ a s/f range. Doing a back splash usually closer to the 5$ a s/f .. This is a labor intensive job ( not hard just a lot of cuts etc) and with that amount of s/f it will run a day and a half, maybe 2 full days with the grouting and clean up.Any one telling you different isn t doing quality work. This price doesn t include the tile, adhesive or grout. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:is tiled floor the best flooring for people with pets?
Ceramic tile ,yes one of the better floorings. The main draw back is the grout. If un sealed or sealer is wearing off. The moisture from pet accidents ( and you ll have them once in awhile) can soak in to the grout. I consider sheet vinyl a better bet all around with pets. Easier to clean and it won t soak in, except at the perimeter, which all flooring will. Vinyl tiles , not so since they have an unprotected grout line at each tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.GL
Q:We will be tiling a backsplash directly onto drywall after our countertops are installed. My question is -- what do I do about the electrical outlets in that area? The tile is about 1/4 inch thick -- and I want the outlets even with the tile (right?) After I tile around the outlet openings, then how do you make them flush when you put everything back together? For example, do I just pull the sockets out so that the screw brackets sit on top of the tile? If so, then do I need to drill screw holes through the tile? If so, then how do I make sure that the tile does not break or crack?
There is a couple of ways to do this. First and easiest way it to tile the whole splash back and then fix the socket fronts direct over the tiles. The one problem with this is that there may be clearance behind the socket and the tiles (Tile joints etc). If you do go down this route the tiles over the socket points need to be cut to allow the cables to pass through and you will need to drill holes through the tiles to screw the socket covers on. Drilling tiles is very easy, use a high speed metal drill bit and using the highest speed on the drill drill slowly through the tiles. You can use masking tape over where the holes are to be drilled to stop the drill bit from wandering. The second way to do this is to fix the sockets directly into there wall backing plates and tile around them. If there is a height difference between the surface of the tile and the front of the socket you can play around with the socket backing plate using spacers behind the backing plate to bring it forward until flush. The big advantage of doing it this way is that the sockets and the tiles are flush and there is no issues with the seal behind the socket front. In my opinion it also looks a lot better.
Q:I was watching HGTV and they had this tile that was flexible. It looked like alot of small square tile mounted to a flexible backing. Does anyone know the name of these? Thanks
It could me just a simple ceramic tile, and could also be a mosaic glass tile, or anything in between. Tile comes in MANY different sizes, materials, and shapes, but smaller tiles are almost always mounted to a backing like you have described and are *generally* one foot squares. Check the link and I'm betting you are talking about either the top left one or the one on the right side second from the bottom. The shapes can be very different, but the application is at least similar, though glass tiles generally use a different mastic. Al
Q:Someone spilled a cleaning liquid on my marble tiles and the glaze came off. Does anyone know how to get the shine back to normal. Right now some parts look regular, and other parts are white. With a certain angle you can clearly see the glaze is taken off.
Normal okorder
Q:I‘m gutting my bathroom and will be tiling the floor and then adding a new vanity and a new toilet.The question is, do you tile before you put in the toilet and new vanity or do you put in these items first and then tile around them? Concrete slab foundation that I‘m currently working on leveling.
SOME 10 point answers so far. I hope you acknowledge all of them. The issue relates to what you might want to change, Down the road and please know that home builders, don't usually do any flooring under a vanity,,,sigh. I've installed multiple thousands of sq. ft. of flooring, and have re-modeled more bathrooms than anything else, and have to say if nothing is in the bathroom yet, your looking at installing not much more than a 30x24 inch area of tile UNDER where the vanity will be, and less under where the toilet will be. At current prices, and without the added labor you're cost might be less than another $50 for the better way to go. Seems logical to me. Still, give everyone above me some thanks. Tiling, sheet vinyl, hardwood, Solid GOLD, UNDER a toilet is a natural assumption, and allows for NO odd cuts. Assume however, that one day you might want a pedastal sink as opposed to that GLIT vanity. If you install flooring Under, it'll still be there, if you change your notion. Very realistically TILE, etc. Will NOT be on the shelf, to match, 5 years from now. Steven Wolf

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