• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6061 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6061 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6061 System 3
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6061 System 4
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6061

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6061

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Glazed Porcelain Tile, floor tiles

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

Size

60x60 mm

Selection Range

Several Colors available

 

Features:

 

1) Unique natural sandstone image designs and exclusive quality;

2) Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

3) Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4) Material: porcelain

5) Basic size: 600x600x9.8mm, 100x600mm, 150x600mm, 300x300mm, 300x600mm available based on clients’ requirements;

6) Available dimensions

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600x9.8 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall

 

The glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, exclusive brand showroom, clubs villas as well as other public sites.

We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as 2nd production and final package.

 

 

Specification and technical parameter:

 

·         Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Anti-Resistance: R10

·         Delivery Time: within 15~20 days after order confirmation.

·         Package standard: 4pcs/carton, 40 Cartons/pallet, 32 Kgs/Carton.

 

Q:I dont know if the cabinets are to large width wise... so I might need to trim the tile?
Cutting the tiles that are already set is difficult to do and messy. Making a clean strait cut that will butt up to the cabinets is tough to do. If you slip and score the tops of the tiles you won't be able to fix them. You might want to try and build up the floor behind the cabinets to the height of the tiles and put the cabinets on top. That will probably be the easiest way. Any color tile will work since they will be behind the cabinets and unnoticed. I would go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a box of returned tiles (much cheaper that way) and a pail of Thinset. You can apply the thinset to each tile individually and use a 4' level to make sure the height is good.
Q:16 by 16 tiles
Tile labor varies a bit from area to area, but you can figure in the $7 a s/f range for basic labor , thin set, grout and 1/2 cement board , which is generally need when installing over the common wood sub floors. Tile isn t figured in this price since a plain , average or discontinued tile can go from $1 a s/f to a very nice tile in that size at 4$ a s/f Extras such as rip out/ disposal and any floor prep isn t included either. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.. GL
Q:Is laying the self stick tile good for a kitchen
as a permanent thing no. it's great for a quick easy fix, like if you don't plan on staying there. but nowadays, tile is just as cheap as the sticky tiles. Go with real tile! You'd be much happier in the long run!
Q:What is the tile diagonal
Wall and floor tiles between the two corners of the straight line, but also to evaluate the quality of one of the standards of wall and floor tiles.
Q:We laid tile in our Master bath about a month and a half ago. Now we have 2 tiles that are crackd. I would like to no what caused it. We have a slab foundation.
It depends on what you used as the adhesive. You may not have enough thinset/tile adhesive under the cracked tiles OR the slab floor was not leveled properly. You will have to remove those 2 tiles and scrape the adhesive off the floor and check for level. Once that is done you can re-apply thinset adhesive as that is the best for flooring applications, and re-set the tiles in the new thinset and tap them down a little bit so they are level with the tiles around them.
Q:We are thinking about adding small mosaic or stone tiles on our kitchen backsplash. We recently went to a short class at Home Depot on tiling. The guy there reccommended installing a backerboard on drywall first. Is this difficult for a first-time DIYer? Several of the tutorials I‘ve found online install directly onto the drywall. Any recommendations? What are the consequences for installing directly onto the drywall? Thanks in advance.
Rock Backsplash
Q:Should i tile right to the sub floor. Or do i leave room for a baseboard? or do i put the baseboards over top of the tile and glue them on?
You first need to place tile backer board on the sub floor. This step prevents the floor from flexing which will crack the tile in due time. But, to answer your question. Put the tile down first, then place the baseboards up against the wall over the tile. Set tiles 1/4 away from the walls. Do not leave any grout to harden which is not level to the tile near the walls or the baseboards will not lay flat against the tile. Good Luck
Q:Wondered what people‘s experiences were of the above in kitchens. The kitchen leads out into the back garden so the floor will be walked on an awful lot. Would flooring last or look as good after a year or would tiles be the way to go. Any info would be great before I make a purchase.Thanks
Tiles. Definitely. I have tiles in the kitchen and solid woodblock flooring in the hallway. Both get dirt trampled on them. The tiles still look as good as new (good quality ceramic tiles), and need the occasional hoover and mop. However, the dirt has worn the polish off the wood in the front hall so it's going to need a professional sand and re-varnish at some point, which is expensive and inconvenient (and dusty!). If you do decide to go with wood, get SOLID wood flooring and NOT laminate, as laminate curls up if it gets wet and I doubt this would be covered on insurance if in a kitchen ...! Hope this helps. If you're worried about the floor being cold in the mornings, you can get electric underfloor heating installed under the tiles before you put them down. It's not too expensive and you can put it on a timer. (things like the website below)
Q:my bathtub tile peice just fell out and i am wondering what material i should use with it to put it back into place. Any ideas?
Yes!! Scrape as much of the old glue away from the wall since anything you add will make the tile stick out farther than it did before. Next let it dry if its wet. Than apply some loctite adhesive to the back of the tile. Push the tile in until it is flush with the other tile. About four good size lines of glue will do it. Around the edges and then 4 vertical lines. This will allow the glue to expand and not hold the tile out. Wipe off any extra glue now . It hard to get off later. Let dry over night and than buy a matching grout to finish the job, Follow the instruction on the box. Good luck
Q:I‘m remodeling my kitchen and there is ugly floor to ceiling wall tile. My contractor says can‘t put up drywall without reframing (which would be expensive). So does anyone have suggestion on what to do with this wall?
If the tiles are on a villa board just rip it off the studs and take out any nails or screws so the drywall can just be fixed straight onto the studs. First you have to knock one of the tiles off, since that walls is being redone this won't upset the apple cart. Just be care when taking off the tile, because I was doing the same things years ago and I hit a tile with a hammer and it shattered sending bits of razor sharp tile fly one cutting my arm, wear eye protection and put something like a towel over the tile so it won't fly everywhere. Once you've knock off a tile if there's board behind it you're in luck, just continue doing as you got the first tile off and clear the studs of anything that will get in the way of the sheetrock. If not you'll need to batten the wall out to take the sheetrock as your contractor said Well depending on what you intend to do with the wall, will you re-tile? If you intend to re-tile just use a chisel and carefully knock them off the wall taking as much of the tile mortar off as you can, it doesn't matter if there's a little unevenness, but you can't have high spots all over the wall, because if you re-tile the high spot will cause the tile to ride on ithe high spots making it hard to tile, if it's just a little the tile compound/mortar will even out around it during tiling. I'd take anything higher than 1/8 off using a Scutch Hammer. ...

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