• DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering System 1
  • DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering System 2
  • DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering System 3
  • DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering System 4
  • DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering System 5
DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering

DC Motors Fully Closed Self Cooling HG-KR053 Servo Moteur AC For Lettering

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 kg
Supply Capability:
4000 kg/month

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Specification

application:
lettering
Type:
fully closed

Related Informations:

Corresponding Mitsubishi servo amplifier product model: MR-J4-10B、MR-J4-10B-
RJ、MR-J4-10B-RJ010、M , R-J4-10A、MR-J4-10A-RJ、 MR-J4W2-22B、MR-J4W2-44B、MR-
J4W3-222B、MR- , J4W3-444B

Power supply capacity [KVA] (Note 1): 0.3

Continuous characteristics

Rated output [w]: 50

Rated torque [n · M] (Note 3): 0.16

Maximum torque [n · M]: 0.56

Rated speed [R / min]: 3000

Maximum speed [R / min]: 6000

Instantaneous allowable speed [R / min]: 6900

Power at continuous rated torque [kW / S]: 5.63

Rated current [a]: 0.9

Maximum current [a]: 3.2

Regenerative braking frequency (Note 2):

Mr-j4 - [times / minute]: (Note 4)

MR-J4W_- [times / minute]: 2500

Inertia j [* 10 to the - 4th power kg · m square]: 0.0450

Recommended load inertia ratio (Note 1): below 17 times

Speed and position encoder: absolute position and increment share 22bit encoder
(resolution per revolution of servo motor: 4194304pulses / Rev)

Heat resistance grade: 130 (b)

Structure: fully closed self cooling (protection grade: IP65) (Note 2)

Allowable load of shaft

L [mm]:25

Radial [n]: 88

Thrust [n]: 59

Weight: 0.34kg


Hg-kr053 product specification remarks:

1. Ratio of load inertia to motor inertia.

2. Remove the through part of the shaft. With reducer, the reducer part is
about IP44.

3. When the unbalanced torque is generated like a lifting shaft, it is
recommended to control the unbalanced torque within 70% of the rated torque.

4. When decelerating from the rated speed operation state to the stop state, if
the actual torque is within the range of rated torque, there is no limit in the
regeneration frequency.

When decelerating from the maximum speed operation state to the stop state,
there is no limit in the regeneration frequency if the following conditions are
met.

. hg-kr053: the load inertia ratio is less than 8 times, and the actual torque
is within the rated torque range

Q: I just moved into an apartment building that apparently has a chronic problem with power surges. The power tends to go on and off several times a week, for no apparent reason. I know I need to buy power surge protectors for all my equipment, but I don't know what type. I've seen surge protectors (multi-plugs) that say 875 joules, 1,045 joules, and so on, but I don't know how to translate that in terms of equipmentFor example, I have a TV, DVD Videocassette player, and high-quality music equiment all plugged into a multi-plug in the living room. Should I buy a multi-plug power surge protector for this area, and what energy requirement should that surge protector have if I'm going to plug all that equipment onto it? What type of a power surge should I buy for my computer? What about the fridge? Air conditioner? Remember, I'm probably going to need to put power surge protectors all over the place, so which would be best for the different types of equipment in a home?Thanks!!!
What i would do is buy the higher volume surge protectors. it might cost more but your stuff wont be junk when you have a surge.
Q: I am using a piece of equipment that uses plastics hoses to connect three metal pieces (a vacuum pump, a separation chamber, and a rotating sieve). When I touch each of these to remove material I am collecting after use, I get a small shock. What can I do to prevent this?Also, there is a loose, partially exposed wire. What can I do about this? As far as I know, it has no function.
If you live in an old house and keep receiving shocks when you turn on the lights, check the outlets. If they have only two holes, you probably have outdated circuitry that isn't grounded. If you live in a house with updated, grounded circuitry and you still get shocks, however, the problem may be a buildup of static electricity from the carpeting. In both cases, the electricity uses you as a path to ground. Before the electric code began to require grounding in all newly installed residential circuitry, houses were wired with two-strand electrical cable with a hot and neutral wire. In this kind of wiring, even a small failure of the wire insulation can expose a person to electric shock. It happens because the person's body completes a circuit between the exposed wiring and the earth. Wearing rubber-soled shoes in the house can reduce the risk of this kind of shock, but a safer solution is to upgrade the wiring. Ground Faults Even if your house has code-approved grounded wiring, you still can get a shock by touching exposed wires or metal that is in contact with them. This rarely happens intentionally. It is more likely to be the result of handling a poorly insulated appliance, or one with a loose internal connection, under conditions that give electricity a path to ground through your body. To prevent this, avoid using old appliances, especially those with loose connections, and install ground fault interrupting (GFI) outlets in the bathroom, kitchen, outdoors and any location where wet conditions increase the risk of unintentional grounding.
Q: I have heard that an electrical ark can kill you so I would like to know what circumstances creares this condition.
The word is arc, meaning a curved line. It simply means a spark powerful enough to jump through air or other medium from one electrode to another. If the voltage is high enough, an electrical arc can be dangerous, or even lethal.
Q: 01 impala trunk equipment?I have an 01 impala and theres some equipment in the trunk on the drivers side. what is it for?it is some electrical equipment. with wires plugged to itits not the amplifierits on the drivers side tire well
On Star receiver/ broadcaster GPS tracking for crash assistance.
Q: I was wondering, if everyone on earth was to disappear and there was no one to work the electrical grid, how long would it take for 1] The electrical power lines themselves to decay?2] The electrical substations to break down?3] The transformer units to break down?4] Any other electrical equipment to break [such as those boxes on the power lines, as well as ANY other piece of equipment on the electric grid]?P.S- Don't give how long it would take for the power stations to stop running, I already know that. Just answer the four questions I asked.
Electrical substations may break down. 2]. Substations require regular maintenance.
Q: I just got a cpu cooling system (fan/heat sinc) the fan stopped working, ive blown it out and it still will not work. I dont feel the need to replace a brand new fan. Any ideas as to what went wrong with it?
Since it's a brand new fan, that's all the more reason to look into replacing it. See what kind of warranty you've got with it, or just take it back. For all we know, it could have been a dud straight from the factory.
Q: Gas turbine technician - electrical, seabee equipment operator, and mineman. Which would be the better job as far as the most interesting, important, and civilian equivalents?
Which would be the better job as far as the most interesting, important, and civilian equivalents? Gas turbine technician - electrical
Q: I have a 1992 F-150 with a 5.0 302 in it. Last week she started going haywire. My battery wasn't holding a charge, my spedometer was bouncing up and down and my mileage read was coming in and out. I had the diagnostics test done from Auto-Zone that tested your battery, alternator, and starter. They said that my alternator had low power output but everything else was fine. My dad (he's a mechanic) said I had to replace my voltage connectors on my alternator. We did that and she acted fine for about a week. Battery was holding a charge, no problems at all. A couple days ago, my battery light popped on and the battery is not holding a charge AT ALL. I constantly have to charge it. Any ideas on what the new issue could be?
change the alternator and make sure the belt is good and tight ! your voltage regulator is inside the alternator and it,s acting up !
Q: (1) source would be from a house and another source would be from a battery [and may not always be on but when on should have priority over the house's power].
EEK. DON'T TOUCH THE 220 VOLTS. It sounds like you have a 12 volt powered device. The easiest way to run a 12 dc device off the house 120 v AC and 12 v DC battery is through a battery charger to the batteries and go from there. If you are trying to run a 120v AC device, you will need the UPS mentioned above, but they can be expensive.
Q: I just recently bought a router that was recommended to me, Linksys WRT160N V3. I followed all the steps to connect and it works. the problem is (and i measured) i walked 34 3/16 feet away into my room and boom. no connection, and my laptop, nor my ps3 can find the router. the only thing in the way of my router and my equipment is 2 walls and a bathroom (yes a small apartment). did i buy a crappy router or is there a way to increase the range for this particular model, because i feel like i got ripped off. thanks for the help.Also i was thinking of maybe getting netgear instead, everyone else seems to think it's good i just don't have the cash. thanks for the help.
First make sure the router is sited correctly. It needs to be as high as possible and clear of obstructions. This includes furniture, electrical equipment, metalwork and people. Definitely it should be above the level of the bath, as the plumbing will be earthed, and even plastic pipes containing water have a similar effect to earthed metal pipes. If the building has metal structures in the walls these area disaster for wireless signal. But if you get it out of line from those in the direction towards your machines it may solve the problem. A very small move can often change from no signal to full signal. Do not place it too close to any wall, reflected signal can cause signal cancelling at these frequencies. The machine should also be out of line with such obstructions. Is there a hot water tank in the way? another BIG wireless killer. If this fails you could fit a longer network cable to the router from the modem, since it is a cable router. I must admit I am not too impressed with Linksys lately, but it should work well enough at that distance. Anther option is to buy a wireless repeater which just connects to power, and place it between the router and the machines, this can be sited offset (in a different direction to the bathroom) and relays the signal. This could get your signal round whatever is obstructing signal.

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