aluminum foil with LDPE film for bubble foil facing production

aluminum foil with LDPE film for bubble foil facing production System 1

aluminum foil with LDPE film for bubble foil facing production

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 90 cm²

Supply Capability:: 33412 cm²/month

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Aluminum foil facing insulation for Roofing Insulation

1. Aluminum Foil Facing Description：

The production technologies and products performance of aluminum foil facing have been up to international advanced level. The aluminum foil facing products are mainly used for HVAC system, refrigerators, building thermal aluminum foil facing insulation and laminated with glass wool and rock wool to increase the insulation function.

• Heat-sealing aluminum foil facing is used for duct wrap without applying extra adhesive and suitable for online lamination of glass wool and rock wool.

• The PSK aluminum foil facing, whose structure is white polypropylene/ fiberglass scrim/ kraft is mainly used for metal building insulation and suitable for the insulation of ware-house, factory, supermarket, office and so on.

• Double sided aluminum foil facing vapor barrier, whose structure is aluminum foil/ high strength kraft /fiberglass scrim /aluminum foil and laminated together by special flame retardant adhesive, can be used for roofing, wall insulation of house, warehouse, cold storages, factory and others.

2.Main Features of the Aluminum foil facing：

• Light weight

• High manufacturing accuracy

• High strength

• Small inertia resistance

• Strong heat dissipation ability

• Good visual effect

• High reflective insulation

• Heat resistant, water proof, stable at high temperature;

• environmentally friendly,no smell and not-toxic;

• Smooth and clear surface;

3.Aluminum Foil Facing Images

aluminum foil with LDPE film for bubble foil facing production

4.Aluminum Foil Facing Specification

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:

Basic weight	gsm	120	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	140 75	ASTM D828
Burst strength	N	43	ASTM D774
Reflectivity of foil surface	%	95	----------
Temp. Resistance	-29°C 66°C	No Delamination No Delamination	ASTM C1263
Water vapor permeance	ng/N.s	1.15	ASTM E-96
Basic weight	gsm	120	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	140 75	ASTM D828

Width: 1.0m, 1.2m, 1.25 m, 1.30, 1.37m

Length: 200m, 500m, 1000m, 2500m, 2750m, 3300m

Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1), 72mm ±1

Based on order, special sizes are also available.

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

1. How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil facing and is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil facing bases in China. Annually more than 1000 containers of aluminum foil facing are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan.

What is the storage condition?

1,The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

2, It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.

3, The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

4. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within four working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.

Q:what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?: The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.

Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: The talcum powder and clothing can only do so much. They can be effective, but can still lead to some itching once you are done working on the job. A cold (then warm) shower should be sufficient for clearing out the insulation and taking care of the itching.

Q:As opposed to other roof structures, such as Mansard or Hipped roofs. If so, is it because there is a lesser distance between the internal heat source and the roof?: For insulation, what is important is the material it is done and how it is positioned (different materials used on the same roof), and not it if flat or anything else.

Q:How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.: yes it does, only if aliens truly existed have you ever stopped to think that some of these strange flying objects maybe be a VERY TOP SECRET military project, the goverment might be paying millions to the media and people so that they assume its from outer space so that their projects remain secret

Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..: You need to make a determination as you if you want your attic to be conditioned or unconditioned. If you want it unconditioned, you need to make sure you have venting up high and soffit vents to allow air in. You would then insulate the floor with batts or blown cellulose or blown fiberglass. If you want the attic to be conditioned space, you would insulate the roof itself. For this I would recommend contacting a spray foam company and get their opinion. Spray foam is great for insulating roofs but it has to be done right.

Q:Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?: Lot of info missing to give you a good answer. Thickness of insulation. Slope of roof. But what it really comes down to is the building code in your area, contact local building inspector,

Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.: They are not a substantial fire hazard. They are far more likely to just stop working than to get overheated.

Q:if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?: That is very observant of you. Yes this could indicate that you are losing more heat than normal through your roof. Though, you do want to be careful in the placement of any new insulation, you will want to avoid any vents that are there for ventilation of heat and moisture in the summer and any recessed lighting fixtures as to not cause an overheating problem with them. This is a good investment and it will pay you back in heating and cooling cost for years to come.

Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?: you should have insulation on the attic. ot should be right against the occupied ceilings. The attic cavity needs to be for the most part ventilated. That is a common building approach. Ive seen insulated sheets of plywood the roof shingles are nail to. You can call that roof insulator. You still better off with the common industry approach. Make sure you have an attic fan to level the attic temperature to the outside.

Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)

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